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I'm seriously considering this one!
San Jose is about a 12 hour drive, but the closest vintage race I'll ever be able to attend im certain

Ironically, Horizon used to have phenomenal customer support. We bought a lot, I mean a LOT of their Parkzone, E-Flite, and Hangar 9 planes. Any issues we encountered were addressed immediately with free replacement parts. On a few occasions they wanted pictures, but usually it was enough to say yo...

I read that and my first thought was that they were not including it but I have convinced myself they are doing that for another reason- collectors don't want to open the box. This way they can see the manual without cracking the seal. I could well be wrong, but to not have a manual included would b...

same, and it fills up fast- not as much with water but slobber. Its nasty, and most of the reason for my potential upgrade

I'm shocked that they haven't adapted to running on beer

I would be willing to bet that it costs as much or more for them to include the oilite bushings. It's original, only one of the kits, the 6016, came with bearings bitd and it was a steep price difference. I personally like it as a reminder of where we came from.

This is 2024, your lucky to get tires and wheels in the box these days

They had been selling that case from before the rere in 2013, much better case too. The stealth trans kits and all the worlds cars came with the rere world's case though. I'd be surprised if they changed, they didn't seem to fix any of the other stuff like the front shock tower and it was pretty obv...

Incredible_Serious wrote: Don't make me come over there....

Problem solved, when you return home just take the stuff with you! Free delivery

Ok cool, and yeah it's a weird way to do it but way old school. Good for a little bit of impact resistance.

To be clear, you are installing them onto the screw BEFORE installing the radio box, correct?

The pieces you point to in the last post are caster locks, and yes I would adjust the holes to the manual and rotate them to set the caster. By shortening the links you change the caster gain and while it's likely not a huge deal, you could get further out on other adjustments by fussing with it. Th...

Edit- going by your wording, I think your doing it wrong. A wellnut is attached to the screw first, then the radio box is slid over it, then you tighten the screw to draw the wellnut tight. It doesn't go "through" the radio box.

Something ain't right about that wellnut. The threaded portion should be at the small end, and it draws that towards the thick end. Is your front one the same? The screw length hasn't changed since the original kit.

Changes the camber and at the same time will change the width as a side effect making you need to adjust your tie rods.