Kyosho Raider rebuild
Kyosho Raider rebuild
A few pics of the Kyosho Raider Pro I am rebuilding. Just started this a few days ago. Working on cleaning it up and checking for any broken parts. She is mostly complete but I need to find a few things. I didn't have my DSLR with me so I used my cell phone camera, hence the poor quality.
Mike
Kyosho Raider Pro - restoration in progress
Kyosho Double Dare - restoration to start soon...I hope
Losi LX-T
RC10T4
Kyosho Raider Pro - restoration in progress
Kyosho Double Dare - restoration to start soon...I hope
Losi LX-T
RC10T4
Re: Kyosho Raider rebuild
Just found that one of the drive washers is worn out so I need to get a new set. I didn't see any on eBay. The part is RK-24 according to the manual. Is OT-19 the same part. I can find plenty of those.
Mike
Kyosho Raider Pro - restoration in progress
Kyosho Double Dare - restoration to start soon...I hope
Losi LX-T
RC10T4
Kyosho Raider Pro - restoration in progress
Kyosho Double Dare - restoration to start soon...I hope
Losi LX-T
RC10T4
- GoMachV
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Re: Kyosho Raider rebuild
You may see a difference in thickness but iirc they were fully compatible. Same taper on axle.
It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas
Factory Works website
Factory Works website
Re: Kyosho Raider rebuild
Well I scored a whole bunch of spare parts for a Raider on Ebay yesterday. Should be just about everything I need to finish this build. Finished cleaning and rebuilding the entire suspension and gearbox so not much left to do. Hopefully I have it finished and running by this weekend!
Mike
Kyosho Raider Pro - restoration in progress
Kyosho Double Dare - restoration to start soon...I hope
Losi LX-T
RC10T4
Kyosho Raider Pro - restoration in progress
Kyosho Double Dare - restoration to start soon...I hope
Losi LX-T
RC10T4
- GoMachV
- Approved Member
- Posts: 11201
- Joined: Sun Apr 29, 2012 10:31 pm
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Re: Kyosho Raider rebuild
Btw, the drive washer shown above is installed backwards...just as a FYI. Seems to be pretty common
It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas
Factory Works website
Factory Works website
Re: Kyosho Raider rebuild
That is the one that is worn out so I'll be replacing it. The other one is on there so tight I can't even get it off. I've tried putting a vice grip on it and pulling but it won't budge. Any suggestions?gomachv wrote:Btw, the drive washer shown above is installed backwards...just as a FYI. Seems to be pretty common
Mike
Kyosho Raider Pro - restoration in progress
Kyosho Double Dare - restoration to start soon...I hope
Losi LX-T
RC10T4
Kyosho Raider Pro - restoration in progress
Kyosho Double Dare - restoration to start soon...I hope
Losi LX-T
RC10T4
- GoMachV
- Approved Member
- Posts: 11201
- Joined: Sun Apr 29, 2012 10:31 pm
- Location: Twin Falls, ID
- Has thanked: 768 times
- Been thanked: 2214 times
Re: Kyosho Raider rebuild
I put a nut on the threads about 4 or so turns just to protect them, and then whack the nut with a heavy set of pliers. Should pop the taper and I haven't had it hurt a bearing yet
It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas
Factory Works website
Factory Works website
Re: Kyosho Raider rebuild
Yeah thats the way to pop them out. I usually hit it with the side of a pliers. If you liver in between the the aluminum hex and wheel shaft mounting, you will be scratching and damaging the hex.
I have a turbo raider myself, not driven it though, have customized it with metal linkages, carbon fiber shock towers etc, got a brand new gold w-5061 drive shafts for $33 new off ebay too. Hey one question to all you guys there, are those gold shocks the turbo raider comes with, kyosho's or are they duratrax???? I have opened mine up and it has does not have 2 O-rings like the kyosho pressure gold shocks. mine had leaked, but I packed in a thin washer (0.4mm thickness) before the retainer clip to squeeze in the O-ring to better provide sealing.
I have a turbo raider myself, not driven it though, have customized it with metal linkages, carbon fiber shock towers etc, got a brand new gold w-5061 drive shafts for $33 new off ebay too. Hey one question to all you guys there, are those gold shocks the turbo raider comes with, kyosho's or are they duratrax???? I have opened mine up and it has does not have 2 O-rings like the kyosho pressure gold shocks. mine had leaked, but I packed in a thin washer (0.4mm thickness) before the retainer clip to squeeze in the O-ring to better provide sealing.
Re: Kyosho Raider rebuild
The gold shocks I have I *think* are actually Duratrax. The ones I have on my Raider rebuild are actually donated from my old Double Dare. I remember getting a set of 8 gold shocks many moons ago but can't remember if they were Kyosho or Duratrax. I was only 12 or 13 when I got them. That was way to long ago for me to rememberron wrote:Yeah thats the way to pop them out. I usually hit it with the side of a pliers. If you liver in between the the aluminum hex and wheel shaft mounting, you will be scratching and damaging the hex.
I have a turbo raider myself, not driven it though, have customized it with metal linkages, carbon fiber shock towers etc, got a brand new gold w-5061 drive shafts for $33 new off ebay too. Hey one question to all you guys there, are those gold shocks the turbo raider comes with, kyosho's or are they duratrax???? I have opened mine up and it has does not have 2 O-rings like the kyosho pressure gold shocks. mine had leaked, but I packed in a thin washer (0.4mm thickness) before the retainer clip to squeeze in the O-ring to better provide sealing.
That's a nice looking Raider you got there. I just got my parts I have been waiting for so I should have it back together in a few days. Maybe after all this rain blows through I can take it out for a spin.
Mike
Kyosho Raider Pro - restoration in progress
Kyosho Double Dare - restoration to start soon...I hope
Losi LX-T
RC10T4
Kyosho Raider Pro - restoration in progress
Kyosho Double Dare - restoration to start soon...I hope
Losi LX-T
RC10T4
Re: Kyosho Raider rebuild
Got mine from a flea market, got everything, the manual, the body shell, battery and controls. This thing is in brand new condition. From the looks of it, it was only built and never run. I did not know anything about kyosho vintages and got it for those gold shocks, got it for $30 only. I was surprised to learn that these were not kyosho gold pressure shocks, but they are just as good I would say, smooth machined shock bodies and all. I have taken the MSC out, cause I plan to put in an ESC. Keep us posted with your project
Re: Kyosho Raider rebuild
Hello , i am restoring a Raider, and i have some questions....ron wrote:Yeah thats the way to pop them out. I usually hit it with the side of a pliers. If you liver in between the the aluminum hex and wheel shaft mounting, you will be scratching and damaging the hex.
I have a turbo raider myself, not driven it though, have customized it with metal linkages, carbon fiber shock towers etc, got a brand new gold w-5061 drive shafts for $33 new off ebay too. Hey one question to all you guys there, are those gold shocks the turbo raider comes with, kyosho's or are they duratrax???? I have opened mine up and it has does not have 2 O-rings like the kyosho pressure gold shocks. mine had leaked, but I packed in a thin washer (0.4mm thickness) before the retainer clip to squeeze in the O-ring to better provide sealing.
You said that you install a w-5061 drive shafts, i have search in eBay, and i found it, but the length of this shafts is 92mm and the original is more or less 98, it was not a problem? after do that do you need to install another wheels? or another part?
i have in mind install a ball bearing differential, and put some strong cardan to more strong the transmission, because i remember that the original shaft and the differential was damaged some times.....
Thanks!
- Coelacanth
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Re: Kyosho Raider rebuild
Other than disassembling them and counting the O-rings, there's one definitive way to tell Kyosho Golds from the DuraLeaks (they're not created equal)...but you'll need to show a close-up picture of the bottom of the shock bodies, opposite of where the caps screw on. I think it was Jeff (gomachv) who discovered that the Duratrax shock bodies have a small taper machined in the bottoms of their shock bodies, whereas the Golds are smooth.mikecel79 wrote:The gold shocks I have I *think* are actually Duratrax. The ones I have on my Raider rebuild are actually donated from my old Double Dare. I remember getting a set of 8 gold shocks many moons ago but can't remember if they were Kyosho or Duratrax. I was only 12 or 13 when I got them. That was way to long ago for me to rememberron wrote:Hey one question to all you guys there, are those gold shocks the turbo raider comes with, kyosho's or are they duratrax???? I have opened mine up and it has does not have 2 O-rings like the kyosho pressure gold shocks. mine had leaked, but I packed in a thin washer (0.4mm thickness) before the retainer clip to squeeze in the O-ring to better provide sealing.
All the other methods to distinguish them are based on size and color, which are relative and not very accurate when you don't have both kinds sitting side-by-side for comparison.
Completed projects: CYANide Onroad Optima | Zebra Gold Optima | Barney Optima | OptiMutt RWD Mid
Gallery - Coel's Stalls: Marui Galaxy & Shogun Resto-Mods | FrankenBuff AYK Buffalo | 1987 Buick GNX RC12L3
Gallery - Coel's Stalls: Marui Galaxy & Shogun Resto-Mods | FrankenBuff AYK Buffalo | 1987 Buick GNX RC12L3
Re: Kyosho Raider rebuild
ipenalosa - take a look at this link here, they discuss in detail about the different swing shafts, how long and all. The gold swing shafts I have also fit the Javelin, optima mid etc, just about same size. If you want a good buggy, get a 2014 scorpion or get hold of an optima or javelin, but if you want to do a total makeover of the raider as I so persionatly did, than do it, its so fun and satisfying. It is a decent buggy. I got hold of a mid, vintage scorpion etc so I the turbo raider is just sitting there, I have done all I could do on it, the spark has gone. If I pan on running a buggy, it will be the optima mid.
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=19856&p=412551&hilit=kyosho+w5061#p412551
Coelacanth - well now I have some gold kyosho shocks to compare the duratrax, the duratrax top cap, I believe is machined much better than the kyoshos, inside top seal is different in design too, the kyosho has a flatter seal while the duratrax has a convex shaped one, the bottom spring retainer for duratax is flat while kyoshos has a taper and fillet to it. Also duratrax has a more orange color to it.
Jeffs right, I just saw it now!, when you take a look where the shock has a taper at the bottom end, you will find that at the end of the taper, duratrax have a deeper CHAMFER than the kyoshos. The kyosho has just a slight chamfer to finish off the taper.
Recently the golds have gone so far up in price, its unbelievable. They are very good performance wise, the duratrax are just as good, as long as they have oil in them, but I found that even without oil, they function smoothly. I would say, just cause it does not have duel o-rings has some negative drawback, but as far as looks, they look the same.
On the topic of shocks, I have gotten fond of the CB89s, CB88s, phantom shocks and 1886s, ALL these are red anodized and look the best on your vintage rides, hard to find and almost impossible to find new. Another one is the YOU-G blue anodized shocks for the grasshopper, rear placement ones, these are beefy short shocks, very well made but leak, I did some machining on the bottom retainer, made an adjustable cap for the o-ring and whala, it leaks NO MORE, Such smooth action, the rod slides in a plastic sleeve as opposed to brass, the 13mm diameter permitted me to put an internal spring it it to make its appears clean and nice looking. I guess I said too much but vintage parts are SO COOL, guys you all know that, need to express their quality, scale like appearance, and durability.
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=19856&p=412551&hilit=kyosho+w5061#p412551
Coelacanth - well now I have some gold kyosho shocks to compare the duratrax, the duratrax top cap, I believe is machined much better than the kyoshos, inside top seal is different in design too, the kyosho has a flatter seal while the duratrax has a convex shaped one, the bottom spring retainer for duratax is flat while kyoshos has a taper and fillet to it. Also duratrax has a more orange color to it.
Jeffs right, I just saw it now!, when you take a look where the shock has a taper at the bottom end, you will find that at the end of the taper, duratrax have a deeper CHAMFER than the kyoshos. The kyosho has just a slight chamfer to finish off the taper.
Recently the golds have gone so far up in price, its unbelievable. They are very good performance wise, the duratrax are just as good, as long as they have oil in them, but I found that even without oil, they function smoothly. I would say, just cause it does not have duel o-rings has some negative drawback, but as far as looks, they look the same.
On the topic of shocks, I have gotten fond of the CB89s, CB88s, phantom shocks and 1886s, ALL these are red anodized and look the best on your vintage rides, hard to find and almost impossible to find new. Another one is the YOU-G blue anodized shocks for the grasshopper, rear placement ones, these are beefy short shocks, very well made but leak, I did some machining on the bottom retainer, made an adjustable cap for the o-ring and whala, it leaks NO MORE, Such smooth action, the rod slides in a plastic sleeve as opposed to brass, the 13mm diameter permitted me to put an internal spring it it to make its appears clean and nice looking. I guess I said too much but vintage parts are SO COOL, guys you all know that, need to express their quality, scale like appearance, and durability.
Re: Kyosho Raider rebuild
ron wrote:ipenalosa - take a look at this link here, they discuss in detail about the different swing shafts, how long and all. The gold swing shafts I have also fit the Javelin, optima mid etc, just about same size. If you want a good buggy, get a 2014 scorpion or get hold of an optima or javelin, but if you want to do a total makeover of the raider as I so persionatly did, than do it, its so fun and satisfying. It is a decent buggy. I got hold of a mid, vintage scorpion etc so I the turbo raider is just sitting there, I have done all I could do on it, the spark has gone. If I pan on running a buggy, it will be the optima mid.
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=19856&p=412551&hilit=kyosho+w5061#p412551
Thanks a lot for the information!!
You are right about the scorpion or something like that , I am thinking to buy a brand new 4x4 1/10, associated b44.3, losi 22-4, kyosho lazer... but this is only deliberation.....
The only reason because i am doing that (restoring the Raider), is for the satisfaction to do, and as a hobbie to distract after work.
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