Finally---I Score an Optima Mid
- XLR8
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Re: Finally---I Score an Optima Mid
TBG stuff can be inconsistent and a challenge to fit. For instance, the hole dimples in the XLS undertray I got from them don't even come close to lining up with the holes in the chassis and the overall length is a little short so I had to trim-off the kickup at the back. That said, I really appreciate that TBG can reproduce bodies for the vintage cars. Without them, we would be left to recycling our old scratched and broken bodies or paying crazy prices for vintage NIB stuff. I'm sure that once the body is fitted, painted and stickered it will look fantastic.
Doug
- Basher67
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Re: Finally---I Score an Optima Mid
I agree 100%. I found them on ebay a while back while looking for a body for my Traxxas Sledgeheammer. I have since bought many bodies from them for all kinds of vintage cars. They are a godsend as far as I'm concerned. I wouldn't have been able to restore some of my cars without them.
- Basher67
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Re: Finally---I Score an Optima Mid
Finally got around to trimming and painting the new body. For paint, I used Duratrax bright yellow and also their window tint for the windows. I'm pretty pleased with the outcome. Hope you guys like the pics of the finished product!
- DennisM
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Re: Finally---I Score an Optima Mid
It´s a job well done - thumbs up.
BUT being the perfectionist I am , You ain´t getting a full 10 before You´ve installed the clips for the wing
BUT being the perfectionist I am , You ain´t getting a full 10 before You´ve installed the clips for the wing
Gone fishing
- Lonestar
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Re: Finally---I Score an Optima Mid
The final result is very, very nice... there aren't that many Mids on the forums, let alone "special" mids like the turbo or the SE!
Love the yellow paint with the window tint! Shelf queen material
Love the yellow paint with the window tint! Shelf queen material
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- XLR8
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Re: Finally---I Score an Optima Mid
Looks very good. You appear to have nailed the color. There's a couple like it posted on ebay right now. Yellow is an appropriate color for this car; you have a goldmine there. Good job. Set it on the shelf to admire or sell it and retire early.
Doug
- Basher67
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Re: Finally---I Score an Optima Mid
Thanks guys. This one is staying in the collection---after I add the clips to the wing. I have a new set of shelves to expand my collection and this one will have a nice home in the "Kyosho Section". I have the new tires from Marwan, decals from MCI and a bunch of nip parts to do a full restoration on my Javelin next.
- XLR8
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Re: Finally---I Score an Optima Mid
Hey Basher, by chance did you back-up the Duratrax Bright Yellow with white to make appear as bright as it does in the photos above? I have Pactra Bright Yellow applied to my XLS runner and it looks very dark (like mustard). So, when I compare the "Bright Yellow" color chips from each manufacturers web pages, both appear to be the same (see below). Your Mid in the photos above appears much brighter than my XLS. I backed up my yellow with gray primer but even before I applied the primer, it just looked too dark. It's good enough for a runner but before I paint the shelfer, I'll want a lighter shade of yellow. If you don't mind my asking, what did you find when you were experimenting with different brands/colors for your Mid? Thanks.
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- Bright Yellows.jpg (28.24 KiB) Viewed 556 times
Doug
- Basher67
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Re: Finally---I Score an Optima Mid
I did back it with white, But the wing was not backed up with white because it would show. I could not tell the difference. The only reason I backed it with white was to ensure that the dark window tint paint wouldn't bleed through the yellow or darken it in spots. Different paint colors, even among the same brand and type , cover differently than others. For instance, with Duratrax paints, bright white and bright yellow cover very well and are completely opaque, especially after two or three good coats, but other colors, like their metallic blue is translucent no matter how many coats you apply. Most of the neon colors from any brand do better with a white backing coat. I had planned on trying some different brands of "bright yellow" such as Spaz Stix, but the Duratrax bright yellow was exactly what I was looking for so I didn't get a chance to try the others. When I paint a body, I hold it up to the light as I'm painting. This tells me where there are lighter and darker areas and also tells me how much that paint is going to need a backing color.
- XLR8
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Re: Finally---I Score an Optima Mid
Okay, thanks. I've found the pactra rattle can paints I have for this project are very opaque as well. I'll give the Duratrax bright yellow a try on a scrap piece of lexan to see if it's as bright as the box art.
I use the light trick to check for missed spots as well. I typically will apply three progressively heavier coats then, after it has dried completely, back it with some cheap enamel paint from a hardware or automotive store to add opacity and to provide some scratch resistance. The enamel adheres well to the polycarbonite paint but I wouldn't recommend using it directly on the lexan as it will flake. Thanks for the advice.
I use the light trick to check for missed spots as well. I typically will apply three progressively heavier coats then, after it has dried completely, back it with some cheap enamel paint from a hardware or automotive store to add opacity and to provide some scratch resistance. The enamel adheres well to the polycarbonite paint but I wouldn't recommend using it directly on the lexan as it will flake. Thanks for the advice.
Doug
- Basher67
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Re: Finally---I Score an Optima Mid
I back almost everything with Duratrax bright white. If I'm doing a multicolor paint scheme, white is the final color to be sprayed, so it ends up being the final color along with backing for the rest of the body.
- XLR8
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Re: Finally---I Score an Optima Mid
Thanks again Basher. I would use the good poly paint for backing except I am super frugal and found that the large rattle can paint from Walmart is a much less expensive way to go. Yes I am CHEAP!!
Doug
- Basher67
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Re: Finally---I Score an Optima Mid
Nothing wrong with frugal! Saves money for other projects! I just had some bad experiences with regular spray paint. I ended up with paint that chipped away and ruined an otherwise nice paint job. On a body that cost $25-$45 a piece, I don't take a chance anymore. If it's working for you though, I say go for it!
One other thing I like about the Duratrax paints, is that the paint is very consistent. Sometimes because of the shape of the body, there is spots you just can't get good coverage on with a spray can. On the Optima mid, it's the inside of the sides of the rear wing. I run into the same problem with the rear fins on GTP type bodies, especially on 1/12 cars. Duratrax has all their paints in small bottles to thin down for an airbrush as well as their spray cans. It's nice to be able to switch to an airbrush for spots like this without worrying about the paint matching.
If your doing test panels and you don't have a bunch of scrap lexan, use 2 liter soda botles. I peel all the stickers off, cut the top and bottom off, cut it top to bottom and uncurl it. After cleaning it, you have a nice spray test panel.
One other thing I like about the Duratrax paints, is that the paint is very consistent. Sometimes because of the shape of the body, there is spots you just can't get good coverage on with a spray can. On the Optima mid, it's the inside of the sides of the rear wing. I run into the same problem with the rear fins on GTP type bodies, especially on 1/12 cars. Duratrax has all their paints in small bottles to thin down for an airbrush as well as their spray cans. It's nice to be able to switch to an airbrush for spots like this without worrying about the paint matching.
If your doing test panels and you don't have a bunch of scrap lexan, use 2 liter soda botles. I peel all the stickers off, cut the top and bottom off, cut it top to bottom and uncurl it. After cleaning it, you have a nice spray test panel.
- XLR8
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Re: Finally---I Score an Optima Mid
haha.. Yeah, I do the soda bottle test thing as well but was afraid to mention it fearing ridicule. However, I'm beginning to find this site to be mostly a ridicule-free zone - which can be a hard place to find on the web these days.
So yeah, I was gonna ask your opinion on what to do with the very tight areas like wing stabilizers. I have a Paasche air brush from bitd and have used it in the past to paint wings but I've found that it's still difficult to squirt paint into tight areas. I've also tried applying the paint by brush but with mixed results - especially if it's a light color. Your Mid wing turned out excellent so perhaps I should try and work with the air brush some more. Have you ever tried thinning Duratrax or any other poly paint with ordinary lacquer thinner?
BTW Here's my XLS body. It appears a bit lighter in the photo than in person.
So yeah, I was gonna ask your opinion on what to do with the very tight areas like wing stabilizers. I have a Paasche air brush from bitd and have used it in the past to paint wings but I've found that it's still difficult to squirt paint into tight areas. I've also tried applying the paint by brush but with mixed results - especially if it's a light color. Your Mid wing turned out excellent so perhaps I should try and work with the air brush some more. Have you ever tried thinning Duratrax or any other poly paint with ordinary lacquer thinner?
BTW Here's my XLS body. It appears a bit lighter in the photo than in person.
Doug
- Basher67
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Re: Finally---I Score an Optima Mid
I wouldn't worry about ridicule. Especially around here. I've received nothing but positive responses and honest feedback from the guys around here. The body looks good. Sometimes the visual effect of other colors with it will make it seem darker than it is. Once you get all your decals on, it will be a great body for your buggy. I have used lacquer thinner in the past to thin duratrax paint with no bad side effects, but the actual Duratrax thinner is acetone so this is what I've been using. When using the airbrush in tight areas, I'll open up the area as best I can with my finger and fog in the tight areas, then come back with the rattle can or the airbrush set for a wider pattern and get the rest. You can get the tight areas with a brush by hand, but you need to do multiple coats and let each coat dry completely or you will end up with streaks where you wiped the paint from the previous coat away with the brush.
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