Race Rustler build

[harry697]

No hex up front. The suspension was all based off the N.Rustler/SRT. I believe we used RPM nitro arms on the front, RD Racing aluminum casters, Traxxas aluminum links (cut down to work with the nitro suspension). The rear wast also N. Rustler/SRT based. I removed the arm mounts and whatever necessary case material in order to use N. Rustler arm mounts. That gave the ability to adjsut the rear toe and anti-squat.

The truck was basically as close as we could get to an SRT replica while using electric Rustler parts. The suspension setup could have gone either way, but back then I didn't see many good 2.2 wheel options for the electric. Plus, the electric rear arms have no toe-in, so the nitro suspension seemed like the obvious choice. Luckily we had an old Nitro Stampede roller for a donor.

Most of the SRT-specific parts, such as battery boxes, rear chasis brace, rear tower, and chassis plates were all hand made. The rear bulk was from either an SRT or Nitro Rustler and was modded to fit and a custom bracket was made to attach the Rustler trans to the bulk.

I'll try to dig up some more info and pics soon.

[85Edinger]

At this point I'm pretty sure I'll keep stock length rear arms and use the 4-tec carriers for toe in. The rpm gearbox comes with 3 degree toe mounts, but I don't like the idea of shortening the wheelbase.
My idea for front hubs was to use the electric arms in the front, drilled for the nitro hubs. That should improve steering and widen the front track.
How does that SRT replica steer compared to a Rustler?

[harry697]

I only drove it once. Took a few laps around the track during practice and it was a huge improvement over the Rustler. The guy who owned it started out racing with a Rustler VXL that was pretty much stock aside from tires and the chassis was all hacked up like that Jang Rustler. He was amazed at how much different it felt and the lap times reflected the changes.

I would say that the majority of improvement was the 4 degrees of rear toe along with some suspension tuning.

[85Edinger]

4 degrees of rear toe? How loose was that track?

[85Edinger]

I just got an RPM gearbox, aluminum 1.5 degree hubs, Avid bearings, a replacement SRT shock tower, and SRT front hubs. I'm going to dye my blue RPM suspension arms black, and maybe even the chassis. Details and pictures to come.
Next I'm planning on choosing some tires.

[cunawarit]

Reading this with interest

I did a similar thing with a Bandit, and after a lot of work, time, and money it ended up LOTS better than it started.

Be warned though, I recently bought a Losi 22 and after a little work it already is WAY better than the Bandit ever was on grippy surfaces. The bandit still rocks on wet days though, SO much traction!!!

[85Edinger]

It’s been a little while since I posted, but I have been busy with the truck.
I dyed it black. I think it looks a lot better.
The truck:
.RPM gearbox
.RPM Electric Rustler rear A arms
.RPM Electric Rustler front A arms (drilled for nitro Rustler/SRT caster blocks)
.RPM front bumper
.VXL rear camber links
.XL5-spec front camber and toe turnbuckles
.Slash 4x4 rear driveshafts
.Traxxas 1.5 degree aluminum hub carriers
.Nitro Rustler front spindles (25 degree casters)
.SRT Fiberglass front shock tower
.STRC hinge pins
.Sealed stock differential, filled with red grease
.Avid rubber sealed bearings throughout (including the steering bellcrank)
.Traxxas aluminum wheel hexes in the rear (I got these when I was a noob)
.Velineon system
.Flysky FS-gt3b radio
.2075 servo
I’ve been working on getting the understeer dialed out. I moved the front shocks to the inner hole, huge difference. I put 30wt shock fluid in the front and 40 in the rear. I previously had 45 all around. This didn’t do much for understeer, but it did improve bump control (which was already very good.) I added a lot of toe out and widened the front track slightly by putting a spacer on before the wheel. I decreased the negative camber in the rear and added more to the front.
I also did some slight modding to the rear shock tower to improve clearance between the camber link screws and the driveshafts.
I have noticed a strange noise from the drivetrain, it sounds slightly gritty. The noise is only noticeable when I turn the wheels. The truck sounds fine being driven. I made sure to clean all the gears and apply plenty of grease when I last assembled the transmission. So far, there’s no binding whatsoever and the noise really isn’t that bad, so I’m going to leave well enough alone.
I think the next step to eliminating understeer is new tires, and maybe some weight on the front (or off the back?)
At this point, though, the understeer is mostly dialed out. The biggest problem with the truck is that it feels clunky and cumbersome. It feels large. When I drive it around the track, I feel like I’m manhandling it, forcing it to do things it would really rather not. It plows when I expect oversteer, it spins out when I’m trying to make it turn in.
I’m still trying to find a way to mount the ESC on the side of the chassis.
I've been doing most of my updates on URC lately. Oddly enough, there's a little more Traxxas knowledge over there. Link to my thread over there:
http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=174038

[chophead69]

I have a rustler that i built up as well.tough trucks for the price but i have broke every part on the front end frame top and main plus a arms bent pins broke castor blocks even steering blocks.it was a brag till i got hopup parts and built it for speed runs.i have thought about racing it but i have the same issues you have.do the rear hubs help any?

[85Edinger]

What the rear hub carriers do is add toe-in. I believe this is a very important thing. It makes the truck less likely to spin out, and also makes it a lot easier to drive in a bashing setting.
I finally got some 2.2 race tires- better late than never, right? I got RPM Revolver black wheels, Jconcepts Carvers, and Jconcepts Goosebumps. I plan to order a few different sets of rears.
I also have ordered a Solar D771 servo. I chose it over nice name-brand servos because the truck is, and will remain for the foreseeable future, an all-weather basher. My end goal is to have a truck that can bash or race with just a tire swap. I'd rather risk water damage to a $17 Chinese servo than a $70 name-brand servo.
For those who have not seen the thread on URC which I have been updating much more frequently, I did get the understeer figured out. The truck actually drives very nicely now, even on PL Trenchers. I can't wait to see what it can do with the JConcepts tires.

[chophead69]

I do alot of speed runs with mine will the tec hubs add to much toe?

[85Edinger]

No, not at all. 1.5 degrees is all they add. It's not enough to substantially affect top speed, but they make it a lot easier to get to that top speed.
Do yourself a favor and go with the aluminum ones.
Edit: Welcome to the board. Let's see that Rustler.

[chophead69]

I have aluminum traxxas hubs front and rear.rpm arms front and rear.aluminum traxxas steering blocks.mip keyed cvd's(they will never break or twist).rpm trans case.rpm bumper.wheelie bar with aluminum wheels.traxxas tie and steering rods.temp gauge.2.4tqi.traxxas brushless but soon monster mumba.running 3cell.i cant seem to post pics from my kindle

[85Edinger]

If you want toe in you can just use the 3 degree toe blocks that come with the RPM gearbox.

[chophead69]

I did but with the tec ones you have more options for the links i can use 1.5blocks with the tec and have 3 but with more points to try.i didnt know what degree till you told me.i am going to pick a set up and give it a try.with speed you want less toe right? And the stock tranny case has 3right? Or is it in the hubs?

[85Edinger]

No, no, no. A stock Rustler has 0 degrees of toe. Rear toe improves stability. More is not always better, less isn't either. For a speed run car some toe can be very beneficial, but too much increases tire wear and reduces top speed.
More rear toe= more rear traction.
The RPM gearbox comes with 2 sets of arm mounts. One gives you 0d of toe (same as stock) and the other gives you 3.