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Pretty sure the top deck is a Composite Craft clone/design. What I have always wondered is if / how it ties into the rear bulkhead? Most of the flex I think on a TRX-1 chassis occurs at the rear tail to main plate transition.

Yes you are right! it is a Composite Craft clone. I get the the template on this forum if i remember well!
In fact the top deck is fixed on the front bulkhead and is just in contact of the rear bulkhead, namely the rear shock tower (not directly tied with any screw). It prevent the rear bulkhead to bend in the forward direction but has no improvement about the bend in the backward direction
Mine is made of 3mm FRP, we will see it fold up like a lawn chair : test is planned on June !! Anyway i can improve the template with cross-hatching if necessary .. i'll let you know guys.
Nat

Another Q for you: How did you fit the lipo under the back-end battery box? Did you screw the box on the chassis with the lipo in it? or is it a low-profile lipo? (doesn't look like it)?

Merci,
Paul

Hey Paul,
i have a 1mm shim under the back-end battery mount 1mm is enough to insert a standard Lipo ... 1 mm can make the difference

So as my CVDs are cracked and because i wanted something stronger, i decided to try the Integy ones and it is a nearly direct fit with the stok rear hubs ... and a direct fit with the RPM rear hubs :



Same length at first sight :



Just the weight is twice the stock ones ...





... but fits well on the car :





I grab a Nokak ESC 410 HPc on a french forum :



The Motor is a Peak Performance 12x2 (Beast) that has lost its label. So i decided to put a Associated Green sticker on it.

And i was still thinking about the color scheme of the body : Orange is vintage ! one day i saw an article about a Tamiya Astute with a wonderfull body paint job (Jamie Both Works Replica) :



I want to try to get something like this ..

++
Nat

I've seen those and wanted to try them myself. I've seen alot of sales of those integy sliders so glad someone got a set so I didn't have to experiment with it myself

Thanx for the info...off to ebay to order some up to put in a box once they get here

Todd

badnat wrote: ↑Fri May 19, 2017 3:28 pm So as my CVDs are cracked and because i wanted something stronger, i decided to try the Integy ones and it is a nearly direct fit with the stok rear hubs ... and a direct fit with the RPM rear hubs :



... but fits well on the car :



++
Nat

Wow what an amazing adaptation!! do you have the part number for these sliders and i'll add it to the TRX1 parts/mods thread

Cheers

Hey,
The part number is C26506 (dual joint telescopic rear drive shafts for Traxxas Bandit 1/10) on integy.com
Cheers
Nat

good looking sliders - On my black runner I use stock black parts, much cheaper. But on a white plastic'ed car, they make perfect sense. Thanks for being the guinea-pig on this one

Not only good looking sliders ! but efficient too : i had some rides this week end and it works fine on plane surface ... still need to see if the weight will play tricks on me during the jumps

Meanwhile i get a chance to have the body painting finished : the result is quite closed to the Astute Replica works i find on the forum. Just to be clear, the painting was done by a professional (unfortunately i have not all the material to do such a good job) :







In order to have something more 'vintage', i decided to dye the wheels and guess what will be the new color :







same treatment for the front bumper !!

i added an A&L steering kit and this is how it is now :







++
Nat

Very, very sexy!!! Love the black "TRX" accent on the transmission case

Me fully validates the orange 5-spokes

(and mine say hi! )

Thanks Paul,
This car i have already seen it on overrc.. the site is in my favourites list.
Is it a runner? Looks like immaculate... i mean the body at least
Cheers
Nat

badnat wrote: ↑Thu Jun 08, 2017 6:18 am Thanks Paul,
This car i have already seen it on overrc.. the site is in my favourites list.
Is it a runner? Looks like immaculate... i mean the body at least
Cheers
Nat

Hi Nat

yes - it's a (light) runner - because the chassis wasn't NOS I felt it could be (reasonably) run without (m)any afterthought(s)

The pics on overrc got taken before it was ever run, so it was immaculate indeed Still looks good, mind you!

Yours is superb!!!

a+
Paul

The paint turned out very nice. Can't wait to see it on the car! Excellent.

Thank you guys !
No next step is the installation of the upper deck. I had to think about a solution for the steering servo .
Because in its initial position, i was unable to install this top deck : the servo-saver is just under one of the part of the top deck

So i decided to reverse the servo mounts and put the servo on the right of the car !



I used the 2nd A&L yellow plastic arm provided in the kit and with just a little trim of this yellow part (a of the servo mount), it fits like a charm :



I added some Lunsford turnbuckles, changed the main drive shaft to a ST-RC with B4 slipper and installed a front brace:


The shims were 3mm ones, not large enough for the hinge pins (I think they are 3.1x mm thick)

This is how it looks like now :



I also changed the wheels/tires for the vintage race in 2 weeks, in order to preserve the beautiful 5-spokes wheels. I will certainly get more grip with the Proline/Jconcepts soft compound tires