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Sand Scorcher

The place for all things Tamiya...

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dinglem
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Sand Scorcher

Post by dinglem » Wed Sep 13, 2017 5:17 am

Ok folks, I know nothing about these, but have just been given this as part of a large score. It was thrown in for free so I am looking for some info on it please. Can anybody tell me what I have here, what I need to look out for etc... I have never really fancied a Sand Scorcher before, but now I have this I think I will probably restore it.

It looks full of vintage electronics as well :)
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broodenburg
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Re: Sand Scorcher

Post by broodenburg » Wed Sep 13, 2017 3:39 pm

Nice ! a free Sand Scorcher... wow.... why doesn't that happen to me.....

Other then that it has Rough Rider tires it looks great. Parts should be available because of the re-release Tamiya did.

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shodog
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Re: Sand Scorcher

Post by shodog » Wed Sep 13, 2017 5:48 pm

That should clean up nicely. I'd strip and reuse the old body but use rere nose cone and windows. If you plan to run it, get an aluminum chassis

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dinglem
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Re: Sand Scorcher

Post by dinglem » Wed Sep 13, 2017 6:21 pm

shodog wrote:
Wed Sep 13, 2017 5:48 pm
That should clean up nicely. I'd strip and reuse the old body but use rere nose cone and windows. If you plan to run it, get an aluminum chassis
So is this an original body?

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shodog
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Re: Sand Scorcher

Post by shodog » Wed Sep 13, 2017 6:25 pm

Yes it's an original body. The fenders are wider and a have a lip on the edge where the rere body doesn't.

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tamiyadan
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Re: Sand Scorcher

Post by tamiyadan » Wed Sep 13, 2017 6:38 pm

as others have said...

the main body is special because it was never reproduced. the reproduction sand scorcher and the early and later variants all used a monster beetle style body. the re-release parts will fit it decently they are slightly different and may require a little nip and tuck, the re-release front nose is different then original and the rake is slightly different but it works.

the original mirrors will be hard to find and expensive the re-release changed the way the mirrors mount to the body, original used L brackets
new version uses enlarged holes and a body clip. DO NOT drill out the holes for the original mirrors to fit the re-release ones.

you can modify the re-release mirrors to work the original way or there are people that reproduce the original style mirrors from Resin casting.

the re-release body also does not have seperate door handles (again due to being 3d scanned from a monster beetle shell, no idea why tamiya screwed that up)

you can also get the door handles as re-cast parts from resin.

so again thanks to tamiya re-releasing the sand scorcher back in 2010 you can get parts to fix it up. but the new parts will be different in some cases compared to original.

----

as for running it.. the buggy will handle like garbage from what you are used to.

I would recommend a ball Differential for it. Tamiya #84113 is you can still find one, they have gotten very hard to find.
the stock car uses a spooled rear.

the buggy was designed to run on beach sand so driving it on pavement or packed dirt will understeer badly.

i would recommend an RC channel rear suspension conversion.
http://www.rcchannel.com.tw/product_inf ... 6f68fddaa9

that eliminates the extreme suspension angles which makes the rear tires change camber radically.
it gives a traditional rear suspension setup and you can still use the Torsion bars for the suspension.

The chassis FRP is very flexible and that is the biggest reason that the bodies cracked on the front mounts.
so replacing it with a Stiffer version helps save the body and maybe the suspension works a little better.

if you choose to increase performance over display then you would radically change the car eliminating the radio box as well as going to a coil over shock kit.

you can get reproduction decals that match original as well,, new decals have fake companies as tamiya no longer had the original licenses for the the decals.

depends what you want to do; a total restoration with correct parts will be the most expensive and difficult.

Slapping it back together with re-release parts will be cheap and easier. you can get a complete 2010 sand scorcher body set and leave the original on the side.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tamiya-51406-Bo ... SwZVlXiW24

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dinglem
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Re: Sand Scorcher

Post by dinglem » Wed Sep 13, 2017 8:37 pm

Thanks for all of those hints and tips. The Sand Scorcher is new to me, so i really have zero idea on it at this stage.

What is the best way to strip that original bodyshell please? Can it be sanded?

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tamiyadan
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Re: Sand Scorcher

Post by tamiyadan » Thu Sep 14, 2017 4:23 am

first you want to try and remove it chemically if possible, you want to start with a plastic safe paint remover like ELO easy lift off.
https://www.amazon.com/Testors-ELO-Remo ... B000BQSKQE

you soak it and carefully brush the paint as it comes loose, or you may need to work the ELO with a medium toothbrush and slowly work the paint off.

Tamiya Polycarb cleaner and paint remover can work well, again you carefully watch it for a bad reaction to the ABS.

you want to preserve the soft plastic and the details as much as possible.

Failing that you can try Nitro fuel as a soak and carefully watch the body as the paint reacts and again manual removal with a brush.

you can try easy off oven cleaner in the yellow can (Caustic soda) about 20-30 minutes for max reaction and then you need to manually brush the paint off.

Failing that you move to DOT 3 brake fluid conventional, soak and manual removal again. Dot 3 tends to weaken fractured areas in ABS or POlY plastic. so a small hairline crack you may not of noticed can open up.

after that you want to explore Manual removal of the paint via sanding.

now if you have access to a media blaster there are combinations of media material and low pressure that can clean the paint off with minimal paint damage. there are even hobby grade media blasters that use your air brush compressor and walnut shell or a plastic bead that can be used.

some paints are REALLY nasty and the chemical to remove them will simply melt the ABS and ruin it.
you cannot use Acetone/ turpentine, Lacquer thinner as it will melt the abs.
isopropyl alcohol will melt ABS long term and avoid it.

there are products like Simple green that will remove paint and not harm the ABS.

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