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 Area51 RC10 B4 Stealth Build 
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Joined: Mon Jan 11, 2010 11:49 pm
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Location: Orlando, Florida
I know it isn't vintage, but I bought a B4 Factory Team kit just after joining these forums and after I just started racing again and am finally building it. This is my 1st B4 build, and completes my entire collection of RC10's from the Edinger version all the way to the B4 in sequence. This will be the only one that gets modern electronics though for racing as I am ordering an LRP SXX ESC with an LRP Vector X12 8.5 mod brushless motor.
Should be interesting, at least for me, as I initially bought this to study and learn about the new B4 to see what makes it tick.
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Does anyone have the ad picture like the one above but when they still had it covered up?! I remember seeing an ad once like that in a magazine, when I went to buy something at a local hobby shop.

My 1st RC10 Stealth Car; Code name: The B4
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Last edited by Ruffy on Fri Jun 18, 2010 11:06 am, edited 1 time in total.



Mon Jun 14, 2010 5:33 pm
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Location: new milford ct
nice!

i picked up a used b4 last week (set up for dirt oval, it looks like it may have been raced once)
i need to strip her down to see how she ticks aswell.

this is my first modern buggy, most of my stuff is all vintage or re-released.

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wannabe farmer


Mon Jun 14, 2010 5:48 pm
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When did the B4 1st come out? 2004? 2005?

Does anyone have the ad picture like the one above but when they still had it covered up?! I remember seeing an ad once like that in a magazine, when I went to buy something at a local hobby shop.

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Mon Jun 14, 2010 6:26 pm
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Location: new milford ct
2004 IIRC

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Mon Jun 14, 2010 6:57 pm
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The B4 came out in 2003 I believe. I still have the ones Josh and I raced at the worlds that year. Ruffy, Josh's car uses a LRP X-12 9.5. Consider that and how fast his car is when you make your purchase. Of course, you are welcome to try any of our motors before you buy anything. From a 5.5 to a 17.5 we got you covered :)


Mon Jun 14, 2010 7:00 pm
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Joined: Thu May 06, 2010 11:45 pm
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Location: woodbridge, ontario, canada
The B4' are awesome buggies, incredible how strong they are versus size of the parts when you compare it to the first RC10. I have noticed when buying parts for them lately that the plastic is of a darker black for the standard parts not the graphite, did they change the type of material used?

Mike


Mon Jun 14, 2010 7:12 pm
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rcguy5 wrote:
The B4' are awesome buggies, incredible how strong they are versus size of the parts when you compare it to the first RC10. I have noticed when buying parts for them lately that the plastic is of a darker black for the standard parts not the graphite, did they change the type of material used?

Mike

Probably. I'd say certainly if the original parts were made in the USA, before production moved to Asia. That's not necessarily for the worse, but it could be a different 'mix'. They could have also just changed the material over time, which they have done before; on the original RC10T kits, some parts were new for the 10T, and some were carried over from the RC10, and the materials were definitely much different. The new material was more rigid, and actually felt 'grittier' compared to the original nylon.

How does your transmission feel? The case in my SC10 bound up very easily when the screws were snugged up. I solved it by putting some motor shims (from the Reedy motor shim kit) between the case halves, which freed it up considerably. I also used some slightly longer screws from DuBro and cut them shorter, as the kit screws didn't thread far enough into the motor plate for my taste.


Tue Jun 15, 2010 12:57 am
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Ruffy,
If you find any tips/tricks as you finish this up let us know in this thread or he B4 thread in the tech section.

I really like my B4 with some of the mods I have done. I do want to get a set of the V2 shocks when they come out. I also need to get a new ESC and motor as the GTB just can't compete with the new adj timing ESC's.

An 8.5 in that wll be a monster


Tue Jun 15, 2010 1:20 am
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Hey Steve,

Tranny is very smooth on mine, I bought it about 3 years ago. I think the screws that go through the motor plate are suppose to just thread in flush and no more.


Tue Jun 15, 2010 1:37 am
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Is it possible to locate a kit that is possibly older shelf stock that was made in the USA? How do you tell the difference?

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Tue Jun 15, 2010 8:05 pm
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My kit has gone together like clockwork, hands-down of all the kits I have put together over the many years I raced every single week since 1985-86 until I retired from racing; I would have to say the B4 is the kit is a well manufactured kit. I looked for areas to improve upon and other than a very light ream of the arm hinge pin holes and removing of very light flashing on the front arms where the shock mounts, this kit is perfect.
The way the components snap together within bosses makes for an error free and clean assembly.
To ream the hinge pin holes, you can use a drill bit that is the same diameter as the hinge pins and a hand chuck. Turn by hand only, don't use powertools for this as a little too much is usually way too much.
The shocks, with the Assoc. bleeder caps are definitely a lot easier to get right on the first try now.

Shocks
Build continues, I got the shocks assembled and on the buggy per their instructions... I only added the bleeder caps. To get the springs to sit properly "all" the time on your shocks, I recommend using an exacto and separating the ends that have the coating on then from the spring if you have to. Sometimes this coating prevents the spring from resting correctly on the shoulder of the adjuster.

Tires and Wheels
Before bonding the tires to the rims, using motorspray and a rag I cleaned the mold release from the tires bead area where it will come into contact with the wheels. I then cleaned the wheels using the same spray and a rag, rubbing it through the area where the tire bead will bond. This removes the mold release from both components that need a good bond. I can't tell you how many times I have seen tires come off the wheels during racing, because the mold release was not removed.
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Using rubber bands around one side of the tire, I then apply a small bead of Locktite's Super Glue adhesive around the circumference and rotate the tire a few times to try and get equal distribution, until the glue starts to "slow" down or thicken. Then just let them set for awhile as you move to the next tire to bond and when you finish one side on all 4, you should be ready for the 1st tire/wheel again to do the other side and start the process all over again.

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Fri Jun 18, 2010 12:34 am
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I'll have to try the bleeder caps sometime.

Any problems with the rear suspension? I had to grind down the rear arm mount to get the holes to line up in the chassis, it just wouldn't fit otherwise.


Fri Jun 18, 2010 12:44 am
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It is a well designed car.
Ruffy, did your rear tower come with the 4th hole?

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Fri Jun 18, 2010 12:53 am
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SteveK, no I didn't have to grind the rear anywhere. It actually fit like a glove. This is the Factory Team kit so not sure if something might be different with yours, or maybe just a bad part got put into your kit.

m_vice, No my rear tower did not come with it, I added it based upon suggestions from current very fast current racers and Associated Racers (some being my old-younger teammates that still race for Associated) as they suggested I copy my "base" settings from Mayfield's settings (dunno who this is yet but he must be good currently), since this is what they are using themselves.

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Fri Jun 18, 2010 1:21 am
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I have been fighting the urge of adding a buggy to my AE garage...this is not helping!

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Fri Jun 18, 2010 4:11 am
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