My "very late" RC10 CE

[broodenburg]

don't worry. She can take a lot!
On the forum I've read stories of 3s with 5700 kv motors and al was fine.

My T3 handels 3S and 4850 kv just fine. Make sure your bearings are in good shape though! That's the most important.

But why don't you buy a new 2S lipo? there are good and cheap nowerdays!
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=19152
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=51840

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don't worry. She can take a lot!
On the forum I've read stories of 3s with 5700 kv motors and al was fine.

My T3 handels 3S and 4850 kv just fine. Make sure your bearings are in good shape though! That's the most important.

But why don't you buy a new 2S lipo? there are good and cheap nowerdays!
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=19152
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=51840

Thanks for info, and for the links. Yeah I probably will get some "real" RC car batts eventually.. but I'll never have as many as I have for my planes already, so it was important for me to be able to run those 3S batts too.

I will check all my bearings before I run it on the new power system for sure. I think they are all pretty good though, I remember rebuilding my Stealth one last time before I stopped running the car.

Looking at the C ratings and capacities on those 2S RC car batts.. I am wondering if a 3S 2200 45-90C batt by itself will put out enough power..

[BWX]

I discovered something that I thought was true but not completely sure.. I think i have a different rear suspension arm mount on left than right. I remember breaking one, and someone at the track gave me one so I could race, but I think it might have been a different degree angle for the toe. I found the old broken one too. From above the left one look like it has way more toe-in than left. hard to capture on cam with lens so close to car.





Not sure if you can tell just by looking at them or not.. I have some new 1.5 degree mounts coming in mail anyways though.





It looks almost even in this pic, but the left one is really at more of an angle.



I also found these front block carriers that look to be the "6212" 5 degree versions.. almost straight up and down..


And I ordered the "6213 FRONT BLOCK CARRIER, 15°" ones too, just so I could experiment with how the tire sits on the surface while turning, especially on hard surfaces with road type tires.

And I got a bunch of other stuff.. Paint, tires, RPM arms front and rear, a fan for ESC, a couple decal sheets, etc..






I got the "soft", not "very soft" version of the jconcepts front tires, but wow these are soft. I probably won't ever run them unless I race it somewhere on a nice track.












New ones compared to old ones.. The Prolines are so much bigger. The Jconcepts were listed as 2.2", but don't look that big.
New, old, old, new..






Compared to some really old tires..






Compared to the biggest 2.0" front tire I have..




Rears.. New 2.2", old 2.0", old 2.0"




















So that stuff should help the RC10 CE resto- upgrade project!

[broodenburg]

wow! looks like christmas...

i run the Dirt Hawks on mij b3. excellent tire for street, bashing etc. very happy with them!

[BWX]

Yeah, it's definitely Christmas for this RC10! That's good to hear about those tires. They look like the perfect tire for that sort of "all conditions" type driving.

All I am waiting on now is the jcracing 2.2" wheels (2 sets), and an order of small parts from Team Associated. Going to start painting the body soon too..

[BWX]

From JC Racing (Not J Concepts), you can order 2.2 wheels, that look like the HPI stars, that are a direct bolt on fit for your RC10. Then just slap on what ever modern tire you want

http://www.jcracingproducts.co.uk/products/

There are many examples of them on RC10s throughout the forum. Yes, they are from the UK, but shipping doesn't seem all that bad.

I got these in the mail and they do not fit. Bearings won't fit. Any idea what is going on here? I made a new thread since it was a different subject.

*edit*
I guess I just needed different bearings. 3/16 xx 5/16 flanged. Great news! I was worried I would have to change out axles or whatever.

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I ran it the other day just with unpainted body, and boy is it fast! I got a few vids I need to edit/ upload of it running.. One on dirt where traction was limiting factor, and then later that day I went to a park where I had enough blacktop to do some speed runs.

Some updates..

Got this carved out..






An idea that I had that works pretty good actually. I drilled out holes for these bolt heads to go through and it helps "snap" the body one there and body fits closer to chassis. Almost wouldn't even need a body pin up front.






Final configuration of layout inside.. Nice to ave a switch! I never had one the whole time I have had the car.





85t / 23t.. It is pretty low, but there is plenty of speed, and insane acceleration when traction is good.


This is what I had to do to tires to stop then from ballooning.. Worked ok for a while.. After the pavement runs, most of them were gone. Thinking of trying duct-tape on inside of tires. Heard someone mention that on youtube.


Configuration of car in the upcoming vids.. (I use road tires up front on pavement)






I forgot to install a spacer in the dirt video.. steering was very sluggish as servo saver was rubbing on chassis.. Fixed it after that- and for pavement runs..


Another box came, this time form Team Associated themselves!
I got two sets of these tires for $2.99 each.. I thought that was a good deal.














That's a lot nicer than the old one..


Ok so that's up until the videos (will upload soon).. So I'll end this post there. Will update with progress/ pics after initial test drive in next post..

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So this is after the first test drive day.. back to work.






Cleaned up a little..



These will be going on next.. but need to take apart rear hubs and install new carriers, and clean/ lube bearings and CVDs.


The CVDs were very dry and bearing sticky and dirty. (ordered new bearings, but will run these until they quit)


I couldn't believe that my inner hinge pins wouldn't fit (too short).. Almost ran into a roadblock for the day.


Can you imagine, I bought these something like 15 years ago.. brand new in package in my RC10 toolbox! And I don't have a ton of new parts. What a coincidence.. I had no idea they were longer than the ones I had on my car or that the RPM arms needed longer ones. LOL.. (two on top are inside package- longer ones)


So the result of that amazing stroke of luck, is that I was able to finish up rear suspension w/o waiting for more parts!




I think they look pretty cool! Also they are much stiffer than stock (I tested them by just bending them in my hands)





Check out how much bigger these tires are.


That's fine with me though, for the kind of driving I want to do.. That means I can leave suspension arms more level and have more clearance for rougher terrain/ higher grass.




Right side...


Done-




And now to try these things out.


The bleeder caps work great. my shocks never felt so smooth before.
Seems as though I needed those smaller plastic shock tower nuts though, as the bigger ones would have interfered with the shape of the bleeder caps. Also the shocks do not swivel back and forth as much so they need to be lined up with suspension arm mount more precisely. They do have some play, but not as much as the other caps.


Instead of big nasty washers I tried these little nylon spacers.. I think they are shock shaft travel limiters. Worked great for this though














Now lets try out the honking wheels/ tires..


Cool! Gives her a completely different look and feel...








Don't have the front bearings yet, but just to see what it'll look like..


I have a black set too.. Should have bought some neon yellow ones too.. I like these wheels more now that I have seen them in person.


It looks like this RC10 will have more off-road capability with these tires, even compared to regular 2.0" knobby tires..

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Very first test drive... not much traction but I can tell this thing is pretty fast.

Will get better vid on pavement edited/ uploaded soon... that one shows off speed a little better.

[youtube]CzImBhqYBeU[/youtube]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CzImBhqYBeU

Edit-

First vid on pavement..

[youtube]RFBkt5QrFeI[/youtube]

[broodenburg]

This is such a great post! love the pictures and now even running vid's.

the rpm ams look nice. Pitty the don't exist for my T3/b3.

speeds looks great. were the motor and esc warm on 3S?

[BWX]

This is such a great post! love the pictures and now even running vid's.

the rpm ams look nice. Pitty the don't exist for my T3/b3.

speeds looks great. were the motor and esc warm on 3S?

Thanks! I got one more good video coming (uploading now) where I get a little more speed out of a fresh pack.

Next is to run my upgraded tires with rebuilt shocks and suspension arms, steering, etc., with higher gearing! That should be fun.


Also- nope, not hot, not even warm! LOL.. COLD! Everything runs cold, but probably just because it is actually cold outside, LOL. Still with the fan running on the ESC, I think even on a 90F degree day, it'll be fine.. Maybe if I go crazy on gearing and run-time I could get it hot on a hot day.. I'll have to wait a while to test that though. Upstate NY is just going to get colder for months..

Yeah I like those RPM arms.. I have some for the front I will install soon.. I'm glad I decided to upgrade/ update my old RC10 instead of buying a new car/ buggy/ truck or whatever.. This is much more fun and enjoyable than running something brand new!


*EDIT*

Here's the last vid for now!
[youtube]pITpHbjp63Y[/youtube]

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So I took my radio apart to see how everything is put together inside. I may try to convert it to left handed.. it should work ok, it will all depend on how well I can cut out the wheel and housing on the right and re-attach it to the left. Using Gorilla glue and CA and epoxy will probably be strong enough.

Maybe I will buy a second one to experiment on so if I destroy it, I'll not be without a Tx.

Also I didn't like the weak spring tension, and after staring at it for a while trying to think of how to hook up a stronger spring or another spring, I decided to try a rubber band. It worked out pretty good actually.








[youtube]y5A-gQ2bFr4[/youtube]

I think I might mount these tires on these black wheels. Looks pretty cool..








I cut down these foams for the front Dirt Hawgs..




For these RPM front swing arms, I needed to get some B3/T3 shock shaft ends shock bushing... The regular ones are too wide. I just got those in today and they had to be sanded down a little on the ends to fit.


These are the more upright "6213 RC10 Front Caster Blocks" that I'll be trying out.




So I used to have this crazy front wing on there that sat above the front shock towers for running on pavement and doing high speed runs. It worked, but looked pretty stupid, and I think it made the rear wing less affective. I decided to try to mount that wing more like a formula one car wig, in front of the front wheels. This was just a wing I made out of a scrap of lexan. I will probably buy another wider wing and cut it down so it is more narrow front to back, but keep the width from side to side. Anyways I think this will help keep the front end down at high speed, but not wreck the airflow over rear wing.



After some more adjustment, and cutting little notches for the piano wire to run in the bumper.







I'll probably never use it, but just always wanted to try to mount a wing like that.

So I'm going to rebuild all my shocks, and I just got a complete spring kit front and rear and shock piston set and new Losi 35wt shock oil, and shock rebuild kit.. and just waiting on front suspension hinge pins to rebuild that. Then I still have to paint body, glue wheels and tires, but need to drill vent hoes first, and also maybe line inside of tires with duct tape, or figure something out to stop ballooning. Also I have an 81 tooth spur and 23 tooth pinion now, so that should be fun. Also still waiting on front wheel bearings for Jcracing wheels.

Also I think I want to get a new steering servo, but don't want to spend a fortune on it, but want ball bearings, metal gears, and want it to be fast and have plenty of torque, and be reliable.. I think my old Futaba s3003 has seen it's better days. It works, but is very weak if any resistance is applied. I think it is holding back the performance of this car now.

Oh and I'm going to get some black Rit Dye, and dye front green bumper and maybe the white parts.. Maybe I''ll just leave any white parts white though.. It does look kind of cool.

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RC10 and MIP CVD- suspension in action in super- slo-mo.. (after I cleaned and lubed bearings)

[youtube]aXYJ-btqr6k[/youtube]


Edit-
Stealth transmission trick...
[youtube]WbkqcfuXYP4[/youtube]

[broodenburg]

wow that looks super smooth.

going to check how my tranny runs

[BWX]

wow that looks super smooth.

going to check how my tranny runs

I had just the CVDs on there.. but bearings were sticky. Yours might be smoother with fresher bearings.



Update.. Just did a little research and bought a "Savox SC-0254mg High Torque Standard Size Digital Servo". It should be good for this car! And I got it new on ebay for $23 (that includes the price to ship 3 bucks)

http://www.savoxusa.com/Savox_SC0254MG_Digital_Servo_p/savsc0254mg.htm


Also just ordered this!


So this is going to be a nice little runner.