My "very late" RC10 CE

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BWX
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Re: My "very late" RC10 CE

Post by BWX »

DaveM wrote:Cool,

So you had the right ones and you didn't even know it.

I found I had some 10 degree caster blocks, I put them on my 37 Ford Oval Racer, and when I

rotate the wheels, left and right, it looks a lot better, a lot more tire/ contact patch on the ground.

Cheers, Dave. :D
I knew I had those, I remember buying them a long time ago, I just thought that you could get them still from ae..

Those 15 degree ones I got from ae work pretty good too though.

I like those VRP ones.. I just realized you can get them in all different colors. Price not too bad either. I wonder, has anyone tried them on the vintage RC10 to make sure they work?

I also like a little more sane castor angle, not sure why the original was so crazy at 30 degrees. I guess it must work though, for racing on dirt or whatever.. but for a harder surface it seems like a lower angle would work better, and still work ok on softer a softer surface too.

`ImageRC10Image~
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RC10 CE "late" with included Rooster ESC (#6014)

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Re: My "very late" RC10 CE

Post by BWX »

Ballooning test I did before I changed all the wheels and tires out.


[youtube]fcKHfSQrqVI[/youtube]
RC10 CE "late" with included Rooster ESC (#6014)

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Re: My "very late" RC10 CE

Post by DaveM »

Hi,

My RC10T3 with locked diff and 6.5 turn and 3 cell LiPo did the same but worse it was not a

problem, ran it heaps like that.

Taller tires go faster!

Dave. :)

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Re: My "very late" RC10 CE

Post by BWX »

Yeah if you glue them right, they should be ok, but they will have less traction.
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Re: My "very late" RC10 CE

Post by DaveM »

Hi,

I had to buy wheely bars otherwise it would just flip under power, traction was not a problem :!:

I have had it balancing on the wheely bars under power, looked cool, but I got sick of broken parts.

It was just out of control :!:

Dave. :)

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Re: My "very late" RC10 CE

Post by BWX »

Yeah I haven't run this yet with new Proline Dirt Hawg medium 2.2 tires. I bet they will have a lot more traction than the old 2.0" road hawgs. Hopefully my slipper setup will prevent wheelies/ blow-overs!
RC10 CE "late" with included Rooster ESC (#6014)

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Re: My "very late" RC10 CE

Post by BWX »

"Free" home-made RC10 rear wheel, wheel balancer.. made out of old/ used/ spare parts.

[youtube]XW1piIZOHj0[/youtube]

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

And I took apart my Savox servo and waterproofed it with Corrosion-X on the inside, and then after letting it "drain" for two days (that stuff is nasty and kept seeping out), I then coated the outside with liquid electrical tape. It keeps water out and Corrosion-X in.

With the Corrosion-X inside it felt like I was going to strip the screws holding servo together so I used a strong zip-tie to hold it together tight without having to put too much torque on those screws.

I think it worked pretty good and I bet I could dunk this servo for days and it would still work, but I'm not going to test it.

Still wet...
Image

Image

Image

The next day...
Image

Image

Image

Image


So my servo is now water proof, the SC700BL is supposedly water resistant, so now all I need to do is either water proof my Rx with plasti-dip or liquid electrical tape, or Corrosion-X or some combination of the three, or I could just get a water proof Rx box. I think for that I may just try to find a water proof Rx box that will fit nicely into the RC10 chassis.

I don't plan on running my RC10 in huge mud, or huge puddles or submerging it into water, but I want it to be able to do that if I ever feel like it. More importantly I just don't want to be afraid to ever get the thing a little wet or run it in the snow or even rain if I want to.
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Re: My "very late" RC10 CE

Post by DaveM »

Hi,

I have checked my wheels before gluing, that way you can rotate the tire on the rim and you might

get it to a spot where it is balanced better.

Nice job on the balancer :!:

Dave. :)

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Re: My "very late" RC10 CE

Post by BWX »

DaveM wrote:Hi,

I have checked my wheels before gluing, that way you can rotate the tire on the rim and you might

get it to a spot where it is balanced better.

Nice job on the balancer :!:

Dave. :)
Thanks. Yeah I did actually test them before gluing and did as good as I could without the tire balancer- I basically just spun them on a thin piece of piano wire, so it wasn't as good as if I had a balancer, but I could tell one side of tire was definitely heavier and I did spin the tires on the rims until it felt the best.. probably wasn't perfect though.

They did the same thing on my real car after I bought aftermarket wheels/ tires form the TireRack, and they were pretty far off when I got them even though they were supposedly "professionally balanced before shipping".. Yeah right.. LOL. Checking that helps to not put as much weight on to balance them for sure. There should be a mark on brand new tires to note the heavy spot.

There's a little more tape on one side where it overlaps a little, so that is probably where the heavy spot is no matter how I turn them on the rims though..

I actually thought of using spare parts to make a tire balancer about a week after I glued all my tires. I just used the car as the balancer for the front tires.. and that always worked great.
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Re: My "very late" RC10 CE

Post by DaveM »

Keep up the good work :!:

I look forward to see what you are doing :)

Dave.

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Re: My "very late" RC10 CE

Post by BWX »

Thanks man!
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Re: My "very late" RC10 CE

Post by BWX »

Woo whoo! 8)
Just ordered something I've been looking at for a while. Should be a nice addition to the 'ole RC10.

Associated RC10 Punisher Titanium Turnbuckles
1 - 3mm x 1" Punisher Titanium Turnbuckle (Bellcrank)
2 - 3mm x 1 1/8" Punisher Titanium Turnbuckles (Front Camber)
2 - 3mm x 1 1/4" Punisher Titanium Turnbuckles (Rear Camber)
2 - 3mm x 1 5/8" Punisher Titanium Turnbuckles (Steering)
http://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=LUNS&Product_Code=2001&Category_Code=CARS-ASRC10W

And got some "punisher" 3mm ball cups to go with them (16)
http://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=LUNS&Product_Code=7995&Category_Code=BALL

Image

Image

-edit-
Oh I found a better pic.. These are pretty sweet looking.

Image

Funny thing is, I bought some titanium turnbuckles several years ago at a hobby shop, probably 15 years ago now, but they were too long, so I ended up trying to cut them to fit the camber link up front.. I remember that I could not cut them no matter what I tried, they were so freaking strong I couldn't believe it.

I ended up filing through them with a big huge file, and and even that took several hours.. and the file was all marked up afterwards. It is amazing how lightweight and strong these titanium components really are, I don't think most people understand just how amazing this stuff is.

So I've had these on there for a very long time, and they are just about indestructible. I do have to drill out any ball cups because the 4-40 ones won't fit.. it'll be nice to have some made for them finally.
Image
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Re: My "very late" RC10 CE

Post by DaveM »

8)

Dave.

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Re: My "very late" RC10 CE

Post by BWX »

So I got my shock towers installed.. They look pretty cool, and are lighter than what I had on there.
Image

This custom made one I had on there is pretty nice though, seriously "heavy duty". Some guy at the track, around 1998- 1999 made it, and gave or sold it to me. It was originally white, I made it black with a magic marker about 15 years ago.
Image

(pic brightened)
Image

thicker..
Image

Image

Image

I forgot to weigh the new front shock tower, but I bet it's a lot lighter.
Image

rear..
Image

New rear tower
Image

Also with this rear tower and the new style bleeder shock caps, I was able to mount the shocks farther in-board without adding extra washers to push them farther away from surface of tower. The old style shock tower was a little too thick and interfered with the new style shock caps.
Image

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I used some left-over RC10 B3 front shock mounting stuff and a turnbuckle for a better shock tower brace. I may leave it on there I may not. I think it'll add some durability if nothing else. Extra weight up front doesn't bother me at all.
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All new hardware for servo installation.. and going to try this smaller servo saver. That means I can mount sevo with less spacers on the chassis.
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This one might be too weak though.. If I turn the wheels manually, the servo saver starts flexing before the servo turns.. It will be safe, but I might have to put the bigger heavier servo saver back on there.
Image

Almost done..
Image

But the next day I got these in the mail. Going to try the zero degree hub carriers with the correct bearings this time.
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And I also got the carbon fiber trans brace in the mail.. This this is soooo pretty...
Image

I will have to elongate or cut a new hole in body though.. as I used the other one on the plastic brace. Also it was strange how much this brace pushed the stealth trans back and shock tower forward. I almost though it wasn't going to fit. I assume they meant for it to be like that though.
Image

Image


So now all that is left is to build up the new style shocks, which I can do because I bought two rear shock bodies and the e-bay-er that sold me the defective ones reimbursed me for them.. so nothing lost there.

I also need to cut more of the body around the ESC fan unfortunately. It pushes the body up a few mm and there is nothing I can do about that. I was looking for a thinner fan, but even if I went from a 10mm thick one to a 6mm thick one, it would still have the same issue. I definitely want to run a fan so there is only one thing left to do. I might try to make some sort of a mesh or screen cover for the opening though. After that, I just have to paint the body, and this one will be done!
RC10 CE "late" with included Rooster ESC (#6014)

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Re: My "very late" RC10 CE

Post by DaveM »

Hi,

Is the trans brace an Associated one?

Lay it on top of your plastic brace and make sure the holes line up :!:

That home made front tower hang it on the wall, nice piece of your racing history there.

Dave. :)

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