2015 Championship Edition re-fit Racer/Runner
2015 Championship Edition re-fit Racer/Runner
I spent a good deal of time on this build so I decided to share. I've used a combination of vintage and re-re worlds parts to build a modern racer out of an old championship edition buggy. I have been racing it in the 17.5 (stock) buggy class and turning some heads in the process. It has been running mid-pack against the newer stock buggies, and I can occasionally manage faster single laps which is encouraging. People keep telling me to buy a new buggy for stock so I can be faster, but I think they are missing the point entirely
I didn't have a good usable gold nose plate, so I'm using a black vintage worlds car part. I recently converted from black to white plastics (mix of vintage and rere) just so the car was even more recognizable as an RC10.
This car is run at an indoor clay track which generally has high grip and medium-large jumps. I have the rere worlds shocks with stock springs at a #1 piston and 30wt oil f/r. Running proline electron (MC) with blue inserts on rere worlds wheels. Shorty lipo mounted just in front of the rear bulkhead seems to give the best weight distribution, but I am still playing with adding ballast weight. The turbo mirage body is painted in an american flag theme. I sprayed the white over the metallic red a little too soon, so the red is more pink than it shoudl be, but it's a racer so oh well. I found out my first race that the turn marshals seemed to not understand you can't grab an old buggy by the wing, I used B4 wing mounts on the CE rear tower to mount the wing. While I like the look of the old wing, using a new 6.5" high-downforce wing resulted in slightly faster lap times. I'm eager to see more people with high-grip clay setups; I am just beginning to get the car dialed so it can be slightly more competitive. Last race night my fast laps were about 1 second slower on a 24 second lap vs my Mod Buggy 8.5 turn B4.2FT.
I didn't have a good usable gold nose plate, so I'm using a black vintage worlds car part. I recently converted from black to white plastics (mix of vintage and rere) just so the car was even more recognizable as an RC10.
This car is run at an indoor clay track which generally has high grip and medium-large jumps. I have the rere worlds shocks with stock springs at a #1 piston and 30wt oil f/r. Running proline electron (MC) with blue inserts on rere worlds wheels. Shorty lipo mounted just in front of the rear bulkhead seems to give the best weight distribution, but I am still playing with adding ballast weight. The turbo mirage body is painted in an american flag theme. I sprayed the white over the metallic red a little too soon, so the red is more pink than it shoudl be, but it's a racer so oh well. I found out my first race that the turn marshals seemed to not understand you can't grab an old buggy by the wing, I used B4 wing mounts on the CE rear tower to mount the wing. While I like the look of the old wing, using a new 6.5" high-downforce wing resulted in slightly faster lap times. I'm eager to see more people with high-grip clay setups; I am just beginning to get the car dialed so it can be slightly more competitive. Last race night my fast laps were about 1 second slower on a 24 second lap vs my Mod Buggy 8.5 turn B4.2FT.
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Re: 2015 Championship Edition re-fit Racer/Runner
Hi Jason,
Well done, your buggy looks great!
Keep us posted on your set up, could you get a closer pic of your battery and electrics mounting?
What battery strap are you using?
Dave.
Well done, your buggy looks great!
Keep us posted on your set up, could you get a closer pic of your battery and electrics mounting?
What battery strap are you using?
Dave.
Re: 2015 Championship Edition re-fit Racer/Runner
BTW... I'm sorry that my pictures suck, but all I have is a crummy cell phone camera.
Here is a close-up of the electronics layout. The battery strap is the old CE battery tray which was cut down. The ESC is mounted on a thin piece of plastic which is bonded to the bulkhead.
Here is a close-up of the electronics layout. The battery strap is the old CE battery tray which was cut down. The ESC is mounted on a thin piece of plastic which is bonded to the bulkhead.
Re: 2015 Championship Edition re-fit Racer/Runner
Nice work! I am hoping to get something like this going soon as well.
Re: 2015 Championship Edition re-fit Racer/Runner
Thanks guys! Last night I completed the build on a rere worlds. It's box stock except for bearings in the steering and RPM ballcups on the steering linkages. You might be surprised that I'm very excited to run this car, as it's starting off very similar to my gold car (shocks/springs/mounting locations) but I can try different shock/suspension setups and run them each at the track back-to-back saving a lot of changeover time at the track during practice! This should help me get the gold pan dialed a LOT faster. I put together another set of electrons with AKA red foams instead of the proline blue so I can see what works better. I'm willing to bet the lighter cars do better with softer foams.
The rere worlds (AS EQUIPPED) is a little heavier than my CE, mostly due to the shorty battery but also Ti hinge pins and turnbuckles probably save a little bit, aluminum steering adds some, etc etc. Does anybody know exactly how much weight is removed by the worlds chassis milling? (note: our track does not enforce ROAR minimum weight for races)
CE: 3lbs 0.8oz (1383.46g)
Rere Worlds: 3lbs 3.2oz (1451.5g)
As the rere worlds has supposedly stronger transmission gears, I put an 8.5 turn Orion in this one.
All 3 of my runner buggies side-by-side B4.2FT, CE, Worlds. I also snapped a photo of my 'Racer' CE with my 'Shelf Queen' rere
The rere worlds (AS EQUIPPED) is a little heavier than my CE, mostly due to the shorty battery but also Ti hinge pins and turnbuckles probably save a little bit, aluminum steering adds some, etc etc. Does anybody know exactly how much weight is removed by the worlds chassis milling? (note: our track does not enforce ROAR minimum weight for races)
CE: 3lbs 0.8oz (1383.46g)
Rere Worlds: 3lbs 3.2oz (1451.5g)
As the rere worlds has supposedly stronger transmission gears, I put an 8.5 turn Orion in this one.
All 3 of my runner buggies side-by-side B4.2FT, CE, Worlds. I also snapped a photo of my 'Racer' CE with my 'Shelf Queen' rere
- JK Racing
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Re: 2015 Championship Edition re-fit Racer/Runner
I run indoor clay, but I have gone to the AE 12mm Big Bore shocks. Mine is the classic re-re with CE parts all over it. I havent tried anything over a 13.5 in it, and its quick enough for me already. It spent most of its life as my stock class racer. Now my B3 is my stock car and this gold pan has replaced my B5 for 2wd mod duty.
I try to keep my cars at or above the minimum ROAR weight, I tend to find local bigger races where they do tech for weight, motor induction and voltage.
I try to keep my cars at or above the minimum ROAR weight, I tend to find local bigger races where they do tech for weight, motor induction and voltage.
--Joey --
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
Re: 2015 Championship Edition re-fit Racer/Runner
So you race your rere gold pan in mod... Is it competitive? I was thinking mine would be more competitive in stock, as the skill level of the top guys in modified buggy is very high; a couple of our local guys are national champions... The last two weeks I managed to finish 2nd and 3rd out of 7 in 17.5 stock buggy class weekly club races.JK Racing wrote:I run indoor clay, but I have gone to the AE 12mm Big Bore shocks. Mine is the classic re-re with CE parts all over it. I havent tried anything over a 13.5 in it, and its quick enough for me already. It spent most of its life as my stock class racer. Now my B3 is my stock car and this gold pan has replaced my B5 for 2wd mod duty.
Did you notice much difference from the change to big bore shocks? Faster lap times?
On a side note: Since I added the JC Al steering bellcranks and removed the servo saver I keep breaking the steering screws and steering blocks even on seemingly light taps against the wall (surprise, right?). So I plan to swap them out for re-re worlds bellcranks because at least the plastic will offer SOME deflection.
- JK Racing
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Re: 2015 Championship Edition re-fit Racer/Runner
Last 2wd mod race I qualified 6 out of 8 and finished 4. I havent really compared lap times standard shock to big bore, but go more off of feel of the car. It feels more stable and give me more confidence when driving.
2wd mod is the same here, we have our club level guys and then regional, national and world champions in the mix as well. I am not at their level of driving, but I feel the car completes easily at the club level. Our stock classes are super competitive and have some extremely good racers.
2wd mod is the same here, we have our club level guys and then regional, national and world champions in the mix as well. I am not at their level of driving, but I feel the car completes easily at the club level. Our stock classes are super competitive and have some extremely good racers.
--Joey --
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
Re: 2015 Championship Edition re-fit Racer/Runner
Fantastic, next week I'll try the big bores off my now-retired B4.2 and see if I'm any faster. I guess I'll just start with the B4 springs and maybe 1.6/30wt f/r?JK Racing wrote:Last 2wd mod race I qualified 6 out of 8 and finished 4. I havent really compared lap times standard shock to big bore, but go more off of feel of the car. It feels more stable and give me more confidence when driving.
2wd mod is the same here, we have our club level guys and then regional, national and world champions in the mix as well. I am not at their level of driving, but I feel the car completes easily at the club level. Our stock classes are super competitive and have some extremely good racers.
There went the vintage plastic. *sigh* They are not kidding when they say the white plastic is fragile. Broke both front arms with very light taps on the wall once last week and once this week... good thing the rere-worlds arms are available. I don't think associated has any plans to remake long arms in white, right?
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- JK Racing
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Re: 2015 Championship Edition re-fit Racer/Runner
no...BUT...shapeways has the front arms, in white that have been extended just a touch so that you can run B4/re-re worlds front arms with standard front axles (not the GT wide/re-re worlds ones). Correct front width and easy to access wheels.
http://www.shapeways.com/product/EJ8VSQZZN/rc10-wide-front-arm-pair?li=user-profile&optionId=43301479
There is a thread here talking about them.
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=37059
http://www.shapeways.com/product/EJ8VSQZZN/rc10-wide-front-arm-pair?li=user-profile&optionId=43301479
There is a thread here talking about them.
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=37059
--Joey --
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
- Scary Gary
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Re: 2015 Championship Edition re-fit Racer/Runner
Are the shapeways arms durable. Do you run them? If so I'm ordering some. Those things are awesome.
- JK Racing
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Re: 2015 Championship Edition re-fit Racer/Runner
I have the NIX91 built (almost all parts are shapeways), I have yet to run it, but others are racing them with minimal breakage. Check the B1M thread here, the wide arms are on that car, and I know it has been run already.
--Joey --
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
- Scary Gary
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Re: 2015 Championship Edition re-fit Racer/Runner
I considered these, however I also had durability concerns. I also want stock width as I already have the front wheel conversion for B4 wheels. On a related note, the wheel offset changed (higher) on B4 wheels. The axles make up for that difference in the correct way: by extending the axle and keeping the wheel centerline distance from the kingpin (and hence the scrub radius) essentially the same. Extending the arm and using the shorter axle with a B4 wheel would result in an incorrect scrub radius; the kingpin axis would still intersect the ground further outboard from it's normal position relative to the centerline of the wheel. Granted, this might be a small enough difference that most people don't notice?JK Racing wrote:no...BUT...shapeways has the front arms, in white that have been extended just a touch so that you can run B4/re-re worlds front arms with standard front axles (not the GT wide/re-re worlds ones). Correct front width and easy to access wheels.
http://www.shapeways.com/product/EJ8VSQZZN/rc10-wide-front-arm-pair?li=user-profile&optionId=43301479
There is a thread here talking about them.
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=37059
- JK Racing
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Re: 2015 Championship Edition re-fit Racer/Runner
Actually, the wide axles swing the wheels front/back, the pivot is farther in. By increasing the arm and plunging the pivot point inside the wheel (like a B4), it corrects the geometry from this issue.
--Joey --
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
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