Dhawk and racing

General discussion, builds/restorations, etc...

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abailey21
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Dhawk and racing

Post by abailey21 »

Hey guys

So I have an absolute F-ton of RC10's I've been collecting over the past few years. With my job and the travel I haven't had any time to race let alone the couple days a year I get too wrench. Even though a basher worlds car out here in west Africa would be about the highest level of awesome right now.

So I have like 8 projects running, all of them started as rere worlds cars, Most are just updating to RC Carbon shock towers but the one racer I want to finish and actually hit the track with is a rere with most all the JC aftermarket stuff. I have the bellcranks, nose tubes, motor plate. I have a Reedy 17.5, Blackbox 800 all the crap I need to get up and running.


I've thought of doing a Dhawk build and I've read all about the up's and down's of their parts, fit and what not so I know what I'd be getting into but I'm considering the rear mounts for my runner. I know this is a weak spot and I know by installing them I'm setting myself up for broken rear arms and rear hub carriers instead of the rear mounts.

But is anyone racing with these or am I gonna be the only one?

I know I know I wanna post pics of the ever expanding fleet but my cars are 10,000 miles away, yes I'm as sad as you are

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shodog
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Re: Dhawk and racing

Post by shodog »

On my Classic I used the Dhawk rear mounts with RPM arms. I found that I needed to grind off a portion of the arm to get it to fit because the mounts are slightly bigger than stock.

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the Dhawk arms and mounts work together perfectly

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abailey21
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Re: Dhawk and racing

Post by abailey21 »

right on, thanks man


Still not sure I wanna go that route, I may wait but a full set of Dhawk stuff and build an all green anodized white powder coat tub still. Just not sure

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Re: Dhawk and racing

Post by yellowdatsun »

Aluminum is very heavy compared to plastic, and also doesn't bend in a crash. Therefore the car will be heavy, and parts will break. Trust me, I've tried it. I have RPM arms and kept breaking inner hinge blocks, so I went to aluminum, and now it just shears bolts off. You have to leave a few flexible plastic parts on, otherwise when you crash you'll have a bumch of sheared or permanently bent parts. The weight won't help you either. I do use a few aluminum parts, but not a lot, and definitely not in parts like arms, or big parts that weigh a ton.

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abailey21
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Re: Dhawk and racing

Post by abailey21 »

Oh I know the normal downsides of using aluminum parts thats why I was only gonna get the rear arm mounts cause that just seems to be the one weak area


Guess I could improve my driving??????? :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :lol:

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yellowdatsun
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Re: Dhawk and racing

Post by yellowdatsun »

Rear arm mounts are one of the areas where aluminum is a really good idea. I have them on mine. Go tired of breaking arm mounts. I have the front too.

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Re: Dhawk and racing

Post by RC10th »

I think the arm mounts will be fine for racing. Make sure you replace the re-re arm mount screws with original ones or others otherwise your setting yourself up for broken screws in the mounts.
I was old school - when old school wasn't cool !

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Re: Dhawk and racing

Post by GoMachV »

Yeah the stock green hardware on the rere are especially delicate. Team KNK makes a nice stainless steel screw set for about $20 that is very nice for runners
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yellowdatsun
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Re: Dhawk and racing

Post by yellowdatsun »

I ended up putting stainless screws in place of the green screws for the trailing arm hinge mounts.

Once I had the aluminum trailing mounts installed, I sheared a couple green bolts, got fed up with that, and got the stainless bolts. Haven't broken one since.

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Re: Dhawk and racing

Post by Fred19K »

yellowdatsun wrote:Aluminum is very heavy compared to plastic, and also doesn't bend in a crash. Therefore the car will be heavy, and parts will break. Trust me, I've tried it. I have RPM arms and kept breaking inner hinge blocks, so I went to aluminum, and now it just shears bolts off. You have to leave a few flexible plastic parts on, otherwise when you crash you'll have a bumch of sheared or permanently bent parts. The weight won't help you either. I do use a few aluminum parts, but not a lot, and definitely not in parts like arms, or big parts that weigh a ton.

Very well stated.


My first time building a re-re World's got a bit out of control and turned into a shelf queen because of Dhawk parts :lol: . The fit and machining are amazing and they do look great. The Dhawk gearbox cases are very nice and I probably going to convert my bashers to them at some point. That is about all I would put on something that I know is going to get run time.

Not a racer and I only bash, but what yellowdatsun said is very sound advice for any type of runner.

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Re: Dhawk and racing

Post by GoMachV »

I hear ya guys, this is how my Dhawk ended up. It's hard to stop!
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It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas
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abailey21
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Re: Dhawk and racing

Post by abailey21 »

GoMachV wrote:Yeah the stock green hardware on the rere are especially delicate. Team KNK makes a nice stainless steel screw set for about $20 that is very nice for runners

Yeah I have KNK screws on all my builds...speaking of that I need to pick up a couple more sets

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Re: Dhawk and racing

Post by durb69 »

Sill working on my Dhawk special. But slow and steady lol.
see next post

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Re: Dhawk and racing

Post by durb69 »

Sill working on my Dhawk special. But slow and steady lol.

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Re: Dhawk and racing

Post by nitro4blood »

Super clean stuff right there. Thanks for sharing!

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