RC10 MIP 4WD help Needed

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limestang
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RC10 MIP 4WD help Needed

Post by limestang »

I started an MIP 4WD project, using a Sassy Chassis, and mix of MIP and Andy's parts. The front Andy's arms match the AE factory short arms. The MIP SP-32 was fairly used, but cleanup well. My main issue is the front outdrives appear to be short, causing the cvd bones to barely engage.

Approach 1) Try a new set of MIP outdrives that are slighly longer - problem is but the ID is too narrow.

Approach 2) Get improved engagement by moving the unit further forward - this would require additonal filing the instructions dont call out.

Approach 3) find longer dog bones - not sure of availability

Has anyone else had this problem? Do you see anything wrong with layout or parts used? Can anyone provide dimensions for oudrives and cvd's?

Hoping someone can help.

Thanks Limestang
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Re: RC10 MIP 4WD help Needed

Post by scr8p »

The problem with the sassy chassis is the holes on the kick-up are pushed forward compared to any other rc10 chassis, I believe creating your issue.

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Re: RC10 MIP 4WD help Needed

Post by mk-Zero »

You said the ID of the new MIP outdrives is too small... Can't they be bored out?
If not, if you get me the dimensions of the outdrives how you need them I can design some up for you and we can print them in steel.

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Re: RC10 MIP 4WD help Needed

Post by scr8p »

I also think that the short Andy's arms are not swept back as hard as the stock short arms. That's not helping you out either.

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Re: RC10 MIP 4WD help Needed

Post by limestang »

Darn I wasnt aware of the differences with the Sassy Chassis. I found a photo of an SP-32 conversion with a sassy chassis at the following link (scroll down near bottom):

http://www.toybaron.com/MIPreference.htm

I did think about attempting to increase the ID of the new outdrives on my lathe.

Thanks for responses. I will keep you posted on my progress.

Limestang
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Re: RC10 MIP 4WD help Needed

Post by scr8p »

Yeah, that's Anthony's old car. Look in this thread, you can see how far front they had to drill the trans holes in the chassis.

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=4917&hilit=4wd%2BMIP

Did your's comes with the trans holes already drilled? I don't know why, but i kinda thin the one I had years ago had them.

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Re: RC10 MIP 4WD help Needed

Post by limestang »

Graphite chassis helps. Looks like longer outdrives would add necessary safety margin.
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Re: RC10 MIP 4WD help Needed

Post by scr8p »

What shocks do you have up front?

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Re: RC10 MIP 4WD help Needed

Post by mk-Zero »

Looks good!

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Re: RC10 MIP 4WD help Needed

Post by jwscab »

It also looks like you have a lot of dropped up front. Might want to adjust shock positioning to help the drive engagement.

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Re: RC10 MIP 4WD help Needed

Post by scr8p »

jwscab wrote: Tue Oct 03, 2017 8:12 am It also looks like you have a lot of dropped up front. Might want to adjust shock positioning to help the drive engagement.
Yeah. That's why i asked about the shocks.

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Re: RC10 MIP 4WD help Needed

Post by jwscab »

whoops....autocorrect changed 'droop' to dropped. ugh.

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Re: RC10 MIP 4WD help Needed

Post by limestang »

Thanks for your suggestions. The front shocks are AE .71".

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Re: RC10 MIP 4WD help Needed

Post by shodog »

I’ve experienced the very same thing. Just as jwscab wrote, lowering the front suspension a tad will engage the dog bones more.

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I wish MIP made the dog bones a bit longer

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Re: RC10 MIP 4WD help Needed

Post by Asso_man! »

Yup you should use 0.56 shocks with short arms and a GEN 1 shorter front shock tower. Here is mine, no issue with dogbone engagement.
In fact, now that I think of it, I flipped the front bulkhead to have more room there and be able to push the front transmission more forward and better align the dogbones.

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