Dug out my old RC-10

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Re: Dug out my old RC-10

Post by RCveteran »

I care and I why I am sad every day that more people went to old school RC on facebook. The ability to search here and the amount of information is so great. A forum format works so much nicer for something like this.

Brad
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Re: Dug out my old RC-10

Post by Brad »

I just 5 mins ago ordered the rear conversion axle and the cva. So now I guess I need to order another part?? Why would they make this not fit?? Is there an issue on the worlds car re-release?? Just picked that up earlier this week.

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Re: Dug out my old RC-10

Post by scr8p »

Brad wrote: Mon Oct 23, 2017 9:26 pm I just 5 mins ago ordered the rear conversion axle and the cva. So now I guess I need to order another part?? Why would they make this not fit?? Is there an issue on the worlds car re-release?? Just picked that up earlier this week.
The worlds re-release has all kinds of issues, the cva bone length probably being the least of it...... in my opinion.

You bought the conversion axle and cva's? I can only assume you're adding cva's to an older rc10? If so, you could have just bought bearings to fit the original hub carriers and saved yourself some money.

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Re: Dug out my old RC-10

Post by Ucsdmutt »

I ordered them from here, haven’t received them yet. They appear to have a ton of RC-10 parts, could it be real? I’ll soon find out lol.

http://www.activepowersports.com/associated-9911-rear-center-cva-b44-2-9911/

I also bought:
1 x Associated Electrics - Black Grease 4cc - 6588
1 x Associated Electrics - Stealth Diff Lube 4cc - 6591
1 x Associated Electrics - Hood Pins Small Rc10 (6) - 6332
1 x Associated Electrics - B44 Slipper Spring - 9739
1 x Associated - 6331 Body Mounts White RC10 - 6331
1 x Associated - 6327 Wing Tubes RC10 - 6327
1 x Associated - 6867 RC10WC Decal Sheet - 6867
1 x Associated - 6566 Gear Cover RC10WC - 6566
1 x Associated - 6593 Transmission Brace Graphite RC10 - 6593
1 x Associated - 6577 Diff Outdrive Hub Right RC10 - 6577
1 x Associated - 6578 Diff Outdrive Hub Left RC10 - 6578
1 x Associated - 6232 Front Shock Tower RC10 - 6232
1 x Associated - 6377 Rear Shock Tower RC10 - 6377
1 x Associated - 7996 Posi-Lock Quick-Change Pin Retainer GT2 - 7996
1 x Associated - 9588 Front Wheel 2.2 RC10B4 (2) - 9588
1 x Associated - 6191 Wing Mount Kit RC10 - 6191

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Re: Dug out my old RC-10

Post by Brad »

Yes, The new cva kit is for a gold pan. With the conversion I will be able to run the 2.2 wheels and the old dog bones. I was advised to do that conversion first and track down the cva conversion (which was out of stock) and install later. ...So what are the issues with the re-release of the worlds car??? Its still in the box, haven’t touched it yet.

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Ucsdmutt
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Re: Dug out my old RC-10

Post by Ucsdmutt »

I do know that the rere does not come with the felt transmission gasket. Sounds like the pros didn’t use it, but dirt will easily get in your pinion gear area. You can buy the RC-10T gasket instead.

http://www.activepowersports.com/associated-7373-neoprene-gasket-rc10t2-7373/

I did the wheel conversion so I could get the bigger 2.2 rear wheels. Not sure how bearings would fix that?

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Re: Dug out my old RC-10

Post by scr8p »

I have always been leery of buying anything from Active Powersports.

Biggest issue with the rere is the trans. Some had a topshaft that was not milled correctly so the slipper hub hit the motor plate. So it needs to be replaced.

Most of them are super hard to turn when assembled as well. You really have to work to free it up. Most people just get the old style trans and case and idler for it instead of dicking around with it.

Some of the cva axles are not drilled correctly where the cross pin goes through which will bind it up and not allow it to rotate properly.

Then there is the glow in the dark looking ball cups and steering bellcrank pieces (in some kits).

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Re: Dug out my old RC-10

Post by Ucsdmutt »

I read this from a google search “The easiest way to convert an RC10 over to 2.2 is to just go on ebay and buy the JC Racing 5 star wheels. They are made for that car with no modification necessary and they are 2.2. Problem easily solved. To run B4 wheels the easiest way is to run the inline steering and run the RC10GT wide axles. That's it up front. In the rear you swap out the bearings in the hubs and run B2 cvd's. You can then run the B2 rear wheels or the Thunder Tiger rears. The Thunder Tiger fronts are the same as B4 though so will not maintain the original offset. If you want B4 rims in back there are a number of ways to do it. The simplest is to run the B4 hubs, B44 cva's, and Dominator wheel spacers.”

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Re: Dug out my old RC-10

Post by scr8p »

Ucsdmutt wrote: Mon Oct 23, 2017 9:53 pm I did the wheel conversion so I could get the bigger 2.2 rear wheels. Not sure how bearings would fix that?
He said he bought the conversion "and" the cva's. If you have the cva's, you don't need the axle conversion. Just get the correct sized bearings for the original hubs.

But he said he didn't actually buy the cva's yet, so.......

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Re: Dug out my old RC-10

Post by Ucsdmutt »

Heh I just moved the blue washer to the inside and that fixes the issue perfectly. I should have just listened lol...

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Re: Dug out my old RC-10

Post by GoMachV »

Just a heads up, Active Powersports is a drop shipper. They don’t carry anything. They have good prices but if the stuff is known to be out of stock they won’t be able to get it. Fought with them twice, never again
It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas
Factory Works website

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Re: Dug out my old RC-10

Post by Ucsdmutt »

Yea I just realized that from reading others’ reviews. I’m going to try and cancel my order.

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Re: Dug out my old RC-10

Post by XLR8 »

scr8p wrote: Mon Oct 23, 2017 9:59 pm I have always been leery of buying anything from Active Powersports.

Biggest issue with the rere is the trans. Some had a topshaft that was not milled correctly so the slipper hub hit the motor plate. So it needs to be replaced.

Most of them are super hard to turn when assembled as well. You really have to work to free it up. Most people just get the old style trans and case and idler for it instead of dicking around with it.

Some of the cva axles are not drilled correctly where the cross pin goes through which will bind it up and not allow it to rotate properly.

Then there is the glow in the dark looking ball cups and steering bellcrank pieces (in some kits).
You sir are spot on. I have two (the complete rere Worlds kit and just the rere Stealth trans). Both trans were bound up upon assembly. I finally got one spinning relatively free and installed it in one of my vintage runners. It's the loudest car on the track. The rere Worlds car with box art body looks good on the shelf - where it will remain. A great Team Associated design tarnished by very poor Thunder Tiger quality control.
Doug

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Re: Dug out my old RC-10

Post by NomadRacer »

GoMachV wrote: Mon Oct 23, 2017 11:32 pm Just a heads up, Active Powersports is a drop shipper. They don’t carry anything. They have good prices but if the stuff is known to be out of stock they won’t be able to get it. Fought with them twice, never again
Ditto, Active Powersports sucks!
Bum on Direct Deposit

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Re: Dug out my old RC-10

Post by RCveteran »

I wouldn't be so hard on the rere, how quickly we forget that original kits back in the day took quite a bit of massaging to get many parts to fit and work smoothly. Gears, suspension and everything in between.

It was great they did the rere and I wish they would again to bring prices back down. It was a great deal if you viewed it in the context of try assembling an old one out of all NIP parts these days. It had a few issues but solvable for a few more bucks which still was a fair deal price wise. If you were lucky enough to get them when they were on blowout at the end you stole it.

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