*Parts needed to run modern 2.2 rims/tires on your rc10*

General info, Q&A.

Moderators: scr8p, klavy69

User avatar
scr8p
Administrator
Posts: 16482
Joined: Tue Feb 07, 2006 9:46 pm
Location: Northampton, PA
Has thanked: 28 times
Been thanked: 916 times

Re: *Parts needed to run modern 2.2 rims/tires on your rc10*

Post by scr8p »

I stopped in at hobbytown today for a certain part and of course they didn't have it. But they did happen to have some of the jconcept 1/16 e-revo rims and I've wanted a pair of them for awhile now to mess sround with. So here's the direction I went:

Modified hpi super star adapters for losi.
20130403_195832.jpg
20130403_200045.jpg
I then installed a b3 cvd on the right side with stock carriers and flanged 3/16" bearings. 1/4" on the left with a tq style 2" rim.
20130403_195227.jpg
20130403_195514.jpg
20130403_195431.jpg
Pretty close going by the center of the wheel.

recent thread from sean doing pretty much the same thing with jammin rims and differnt adapter:

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=30218

User avatar
losiXXXman
Approved Member
Posts: 936
Joined: Sat Aug 29, 2009 9:53 am
Location: Cary, NC
Been thanked: 5 times

Re: *Parts needed to run modern 2.2 rims/tires on your rc10*

Post by losiXXXman »

With that setup pn your b1.5, you could do JConcepts rulux dyed black up front - that'd be pretty trick right? You get the cool looks of the rulux, without having to go all OIN...(seeing as though that's getting pretty tired now :lol: )

User avatar
jwscab
Super Member
Posts: 6479
Joined: Wed Jan 28, 2009 9:42 am
Location: Chalfont, PA
Has thanked: 10 times
Been thanked: 434 times

Re: *Parts needed to run modern 2.2 rims/tires on your rc10*

Post by jwscab »

looks like a pretty wide wheel. do you have to trim the inner bead off or will a standard buggy tire fit on there?

User avatar
JK Racing
Approved Member
Posts: 4599
Joined: Thu Jul 19, 2007 2:32 pm
Location: Placentia, CA
Has thanked: 102 times
Been thanked: 192 times

Re: *Parts needed to run modern 2.2 rims/tires on your rc10*

Post by JK Racing »

I believe those wheels are designed for buggy tires.
--Joey --
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com

User avatar
scr8p
Administrator
Posts: 16482
Joined: Tue Feb 07, 2006 9:46 pm
Location: Northampton, PA
Has thanked: 28 times
Been thanked: 916 times

Re: *Parts needed to run modern 2.2 rims/tires on your rc10*

Post by scr8p »

The 1/16 trucks use 2.2 buggy tires.

User avatar
Orange
Approved Member
Posts: 890
Joined: Fri Apr 24, 2009 12:42 pm
Location: Chandler, AZ USA
Been thanked: 1 time

Re: *Parts needed to run modern 2.2 rims/tires on your rc10*

Post by Orange »

I like the one I did because it was a Jay Halsey design. Its kinda fitting that it works so well, :mrgreen:
Sean Sanchez
Gallery:
The World is Orange! Latest Update: 03/31/16
My feedback

User avatar
scr8p
Administrator
Posts: 16482
Joined: Tue Feb 07, 2006 9:46 pm
Location: Northampton, PA
Has thanked: 28 times
Been thanked: 916 times

Re: *Parts needed to run modern 2.2 rims/tires on your rc10*

Post by scr8p »

i'm headed out the door for work, so this is a completely lazy post on my parts. meaning....... you guys go do the work and i'll wait for your answers. plenty of other guys do it, why can't i right? :P :lol: :lol:

ok, i haven't looked into it much.... if at all. i'm sure there are different thicknesses of the 12mm hexes for 3/16" axles. anyone feel like compiling a small list of mfg. and the thickness of their hexes?

take your time, i'll wait........ :wink: :lol:

Charlie don't surf
Approved Member
Posts: 8921
Joined: Tue Apr 08, 2008 2:44 pm
Location: USA
Been thanked: 7 times

Re: *Parts needed to run modern 2.2 rims/tires on your rc10*

Post by Charlie don't surf »

Yeah, no.

Seans got a neat system going, but I can't reveal it...until he does 8)

User avatar
DMAT
Approved Member
Posts: 884
Joined: Wed Mar 20, 2013 8:53 am
Location: Baton Rouge, La
Been thanked: 2 times

Re: *Parts needed to run modern 2.2 rims/tires on your rc10*

Post by DMAT »

maybe ill figure it out, i was running 1/16 e revo wheels for a short while. The biggest issue was the rims. I was trying to offset them as much as possible in the rear which ended with the nut barely fitting inside the rim and tightening would scrap against the rims. also, with the fronts, it seems like they dont fit 5mm as I had to grind the inside slightly to get them on the axle. The offset they have makes it difficult to avoid hitting the hub carrier. I had b4 parts on the front during that test.

I'm gonna order one but If my measurements are right. a 3/16 x 1/2" bearing will fit in the 12mm hex tightly. I had a 5mm x 12mm in a test setup but it had some wobble to it. I need to measure out a bearing size for the outside of the wheel. Also a note. This was for the front wheels.

until I can get a setup that is straight plug n play. I wont post.

User avatar
stickboy007
Approved Member
Posts: 695
Joined: Sun Sep 16, 2012 6:13 pm
Location: Mahopac, NY
Been thanked: 17 times

Re: *Parts needed to run modern 2.2 rims/tires on your rc10*

Post by stickboy007 »

I have tried two approaches for the rear rims.

#1) Original or RPM RC10 rear arms, with B4 rear hub carriers and B44 rear CVAs. You need to shave the B4 rear hub carriers to make it fit in the RC10 arm.

#2) Dynotech rear arms, with RC10GT rear hub carriers and B4 rear CVAs. (RPM also makes a GT rear hub which fits an oversized outer bearing for durability)

I believe both approaches have been discussed in this thread, but I want to consolidate both approaches, and my own experience with both, into a single post.

Technically speaking, both approaches work. The shock mounting holes on the Dynotech arms are positioned a bit differently than the RC10 arms (each hole is between the holes on the RC10 arms), though. So, with approach #2, you may be limited to the middle hole in terms of how far out you can go (at least if you're using big bore springs like I am), which is in between the middle and outer holes on the original arms.

I have found that with approach #1, you will need some downtravel limiters on the shocks to keep the B44 rear CVAs from coming out of the diff outdrives. It is a fairly uncommon occurrence, but it can and does occasionally happen given the enormous amount of droop. I have also found that, with approach #1, the rear is narrower than the front (if you use modern rims, and this is before applying the GT front axles to widen the front, which increases the front-to-rear width offset even further), and so you end up having to use B2/B3 rear rims to get the correct rear width. This is especially the case under full droop, where the rear wheels get pulled inward slightly. With the car at rest, the rear width is closer to the front (with modern rear rims), but still notably different (sorry...I do not have measurements at the moment).

You can still run modern rims if you want, but you will not be able to use the outer shock mounting hole on the arm (the shock will rub against the rim, but this is not the case if you use B2/B3 rear rims) and then you'll need even more downtravel limiters and you may end up compromising jumping performance as you go further inward with the bottom shock mounting hole. The following youtube link is me running my Team Car with a 17.5 motor, with approach #1, and with modern rims all around. I have Losi big bore springs (red front, yellow rear) and AE 30wt oil all around, with the rear shocks mounted in the bottom middle hole on repro RPM RC10 arms. In the front, I did not yet install the GT front axles, as at the time I was still running RPM front steering blocks, which are not inline. As you can see, it worked alright, although it did suffer from on-power push (this was with, I think, 15 deg castor blocks. I have since installed 30 deg blocks which should help address this problem).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A7D7wisg67I

With approach #2, you can mount modern rims and the rear width is almost bang-on compared to an "original" setup. I happen to have both a Team Car (modernized) and a World's Car (not modernized) and so I was able to directly compare the two. Putting both cars back-to-back, the rear widths match very nicely. Since the GT rear hub carrier is slightly narrower, from the inside of the inner bearing to the outside of the outer bearing, than the B4 rear hub carrier, you will need one axle shim between the wheel axle and the inside bearing to eliminate slop between the drive pin and the axle spacer on the outside (this also pushes the dogbone into the diff outdrive a little bit, giving you a little more margin to keep the dogbone from popping out of the diff outdrive). One thing I did notice here is that, with approach #2, you cannot crank on the wheel nut to tighten the wheel down, as this will induce bind in the drivetrain. So you have to start by tightening the nut and then gradually backing off, while turning the wheel to check for resistance, until it rotates freely. This is not an issue, or as significant an issue, for approach #1, but so far as I can tell, this is the only real downside to approach #2.

At the front, I recently installed inline steering blocks with RC10GT axles (which have some offset, as discussed earlier in this thread). If you do this and install modern front rims, the front actually ends up being a little wider than the "original" front width. I think this is because the difference in wheel offset between vintage front rims and modern front rims is smaller than the offset provided by the GT front axles. So now the front ends up being wider than the rear by ~ 1/16". Presently I am running this setup and will test it on one of my local tracks in time (hard to find the right opportunity when I'm always running my B4.1 and B44 on the weekends). I did run this a little bit in my driveway with some beater tires and it felt pretty nice.

Theoretically speaking, I think approach #2 would be preferable, because the Dynotech arms are wider and this should reduce camber gain compared the original arms. Even though the GT rear hubs "reset" the rear width back to parity with the original rear width, the amount by which the hub offsets the wheel location, for the same camber link location, will not affect camber gain, and so you should be better off running a wider arm with smaller offset hubs (which increases the camber link length), as in approach #2. The only disadvantage here is that the GT rear hub carriers have one ballstud mounting hole for the camberlink, whether you use the AE part or the RPM part. So, your camber gain adjustability is not the same as if you used approach #1, where the B4 hub has three mounting hole positions. In most cases, it is probably not an issue, but on loamy, low grip tracks, you may want to revert to approach #1 to get a little more rear side bite.

chophead69
Approved Member
Posts: 215
Joined: Tue Apr 09, 2013 12:26 am
Location: pine grove pa
Been thanked: 2 times

Re: *Parts needed to run modern 2.2 rims/tires on your rc10*

Post by chophead69 »

on my graphite I have the rpm rear arms and the b4 hubs with the b44 cva's I found the axle would hit the inside of the out drive at the top of full travel.I was told to ream the bearing hole deeper so to bearing would sit further in so I could get full upward travel.now I am using b4 shocks but I am also using the rc carbon work shock tower but now I found I need to put shock limiters in so I can get the car to sit level.or if I put the stock shock tower back on it sit better..anyideas? and did anyone have the same issue with the cva's hitting?
My pop always said i had to many iron's in the fire

User avatar
stickboy007
Approved Member
Posts: 695
Joined: Sun Sep 16, 2012 6:13 pm
Location: Mahopac, NY
Been thanked: 17 times

Re: *Parts needed to run modern 2.2 rims/tires on your rc10*

Post by stickboy007 »

Is this with the 6-gear transmission or the 3-gear Stealth? The 6-gear should be wider, I think, and this can lead to your problem. If you're running the Stealth gearbox, then I don't know. On my Team Car, I have a Worlds rear shock tower and original shocks. Using the original arm + B4 hub setup, with B44 rear CVAs, I have the opposite problem --> too much droop and the dogbones pop out.

chophead69
Approved Member
Posts: 215
Joined: Tue Apr 09, 2013 12:26 am
Location: pine grove pa
Been thanked: 2 times

Re: *Parts needed to run modern 2.2 rims/tires on your rc10*

Post by chophead69 »

its a stealth.I am using rpm team car rear arms.b4 rear hubs,b44 cva's,b4 shocks,rc carbon works b4 shock tower for the rc10.
My pop always said i had to many iron's in the fire

User avatar
stickboy007
Approved Member
Posts: 695
Joined: Sun Sep 16, 2012 6:13 pm
Location: Mahopac, NY
Been thanked: 17 times

Re: *Parts needed to run modern 2.2 rims/tires on your rc10*

Post by stickboy007 »

Ok, this is a really dumb question, but are you absolutely positive that they are B44 CVAs? The B4 CVAs look very similar in length, and it is not until you put them side by side that you see the B4 CVAs are just a little bit longer on the dogbone. Also, are you sure that you have no shims between the wheel axle and the inner bearing? Are you sure that the thrust bearing is installed correctly (screw goes in from the right hand side and locks into the plastic unit on the left hand side)?

If these things check out, then I don't know what to say, since I haven't had this type of problem with that setup.

foots
Approved Member
Posts: 134
Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2011 8:26 pm
Location: Anniston,Al.

Re: *Parts needed to run modern 2.2 rims/tires on your rc10*

Post by foots »

stickboy007 wrote:Ok, this is a really dumb question, but are you absolutely positive that they are B44 CVAs? The B4 CVAs look very similar in length, and it is not until you put them side by side that you see the B4 CVAs are just a little bit longer on the dogbone. Also, are you sure that you have no shims between the wheel axle and the inner bearing? Are you sure that the thrust bearing is installed correctly (screw goes in from the right hand side and locks into the plastic unit on the left hand side)?

If these things check out, then I don't know what to say, since I haven't had this type of problem with that setup.
Are you running long or short wheelbase with the rear arm mounts?

Post Reply

Create an account or sign in to join the discussion

You need to be a member in order to post a reply

Create an account

Not a member? register to join our community
Members can start their own topics & subscribe to topics
It’s free and only takes a minute

Register

Sign in

  • Similar Topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post
  • Modern rims/tires for vintage RC10 or how I gave up on old tires
    by Nero45 » » in Temple's RC10 Tech Forum
    8 Replies
    3004 Views
    Last post by XLR8
  • New/modern tires that will fit narrow front 10T rims?
    by AndrewSi » » in RC10 Truck Forum
    1 Replies
    844 Views
    Last post by Charlie don't surf
  • RC10 Buggy Can I run modern B4 wheels?
    by ffpm46 » » in RC10 Buggy Forum
    3 Replies
    784 Views
    Last post by fastang
  • Need help on parts needed for truck tires!
    by Jman115 » » in Temple's RC10 Tech Forum
    8 Replies
    1184 Views
    Last post by aconsola
  • Need new rims and tires for original RC10
    by veghead211 » » in RC10 Buggy Forum
    6 Replies
    1168 Views
    Last post by veghead211
  • rc10 modern parts listing
    by JosephS » » in R/C Off-Topic / Chit-Chat
    2 Replies
    415 Views
    Last post by JosephS
  • rc10 ds modern wheel conversion parts
    by Luckyracing » » in Associated On-Road Forum
    3 Replies
    1378 Views
    Last post by jwscab
  • Lohas rims and what's needed
    by bow2986 » » in RC10 Buggy Forum
    7 Replies
    1248 Views
    Last post by bow2986

Return to “Temple's RC10 Tech Forum”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 17 guests