solution for locking 8-32 nuts

[dldiaz]

I have several models on which the rear axle nuts back out during a run.
((specifically the 8-32 wheel nuts on RC10T and B3/T3 models))
((I use brushless setups on 2S - strong power, but nothing crazy))

I have tried both aluminum and steel "locking" nuts from Associated, as well as RPM nylon nuts.
They don't come all the way off (such that my wheels fall off), they just become loose after every run.

I very much like the serrated Traxxas wheel nuts on my Tamiya models,
these serrated nuts bite hard and never back out.

QUESTION: Are there serrated nuts to fit the 8-32 Associated rear axles? Or other suggestions?


Thanks for moving this to the R/C Tech Forum.

[jwscab]

for any kind of hardware you need to find for RC projects, be sure to check out regular industrial type suppliers.

one I use for pretty much everything is mcmaster-carr. looking up 8-32 locknut would give you about 15 options to pick from. serrated, distorted thread, nyloc, metal lock, many different types available. and very reasonable priced as well.

[harvey]

Have you tried loc-tite? It will add resistance to the axle threads even after the nut is removed.

[slotcarrod]

The JConcepts nuts

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCPXS&P=7

The last ones you will ever buy! They are serrated on the back and bite into the plastic wheel. they do not fall off and they stay tight!

[dldiaz]

The JConcepts nuts

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCPXS&P=7

The last ones you will ever buy! They are serrated on the back and bite into the plastic wheel. they do not fall off and they stay tight!

Perfect! That's exactly the kind of thing I was hoping to find.
Thanks 'slotcarrod'!

[jwscab]

those are some pricey nuts.

you can get military spec'ed parts for less. just sayin'

[dldiaz]

those are some pricey nuts.

you can get military spec'ed parts for less. just sayin'

Haha! I hear ya.
I did search the McMaster-Carr options, they just seem too industrial...
I wish I could see a true picture of some of their nuts,
the drawings on their website make me nervous.

((I don't need 'bling', but I want something that looks ?refined?))

Have you tried loc-tite? It will add resistance to the axle threads even after the nut is removed.

I have used Loc-tite on some axles, I was just hoping for something kinda cool!


Thanks for all the suggestions, I am certainly open to other ideas.
((I haven't ordered anything, yet...))

[THEYTOOKMYTHUMB]

I wish I could see a true picture of some of their nuts

Sorry, I've been following this thread all day here at work and haven't said a single thing, but that's too much! I can't take it any longer!!

[dldiaz]

Have you seen Dee lately?
- Dee who?

Deez Nutz!

[bully]

Yeah the j concepts nuts are killer in function and price but they last forever unlike traditional nyloc nuts... There are more brands to choose from for 4mm nuts with the serrated feature so hopefully in the future there will be more competition.. I have just bought some x factory lo pro nyloc nuts to try so see how they go... You can try using a large Phillips screwdriver and tapping the nyloc section in from the top of the nut when removed from axle which creates a star type crimp in the nylon which helps if the nuts are a bit old to grab on the thread..

[Sixtysixdeuce]

I find this thread rather interesting, as I've had no such issue with any of my buggies or trucks, nitro or electric, "moderately" powered or off-the hook (think RC10GT with OFNA .32 and e-converted GT with 2100KV 42x74mm motor on 4S).

Perhaps you're simply not torquing them enough to begin with? Just a thought, since I've not had this problem with any of more than a dozen 1/10 Associated cars & trucks that use said wheel nuts, many of them putting down several times the power they were designed to handle. I've snapped CVDs and universals on more than one occasion, but the wheel nuts were tight on the broken stub still in the wheel.

[dldiaz]

I ended up buying the Jconcepts serrated nuts, as suggested above.

Problem solved!
The nuts are very nice quality and bite into the wheels for a secure "lock"!

[sschering]

Not wanting to bump an old thread but..

10 cents each in stainless steel.

https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=7400

[dldiaz]

Not wanting to bump an old thread but..

10 cents each in stainless steel.

https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=7400

Out of curiosity, I entered a mock order for four of these serrated nuts
(the Jconcepts nuts also come in packs of four).
Shipping for the four nuts from 'BoltDepot', would be $5.95, order total - $6.35 (for four).

I paid $12.95 for four Jconcepts serrated nuts (including shipping).

So yes, stainless steel would be about half the cost.
But mine are sweet, blue anodized aluminum with a cool pattern, etc. Not just industrial hardware.

((of course, if you needed 50 or 100 serrated nuts,
you would be crazy to go with the Jconcepts...))

[Mark Westerfield]

Technically, locknuts are only supposed to be used 1 time.