RC10GT2 + MAMBA MONSTER X + 2650Kv Castle 1512

[mAdMan]

I keep looking at your perforated windscreen and wondering about those wedge oval bodies ( modifieds?) that have an internal down force panel. It could take the place of your bed wing and reduce turbulence.

http://www.kippshobbies.com/Kipps/Bodies1.htm

The windshield was drilled for the nitro motor. But, I have replaced the sticker with a new factory GT2 interceptor windshield sticker, and backed the inside of the body with silver tape. It is like the holes were never drilled. I really do want to hit 100 with the truck body, or what's left lol...

Downforce is drag, drag robs MPH.

You need it slippery like a seal, slippery like those kids tube toys, slippery like soap in the........ ok, we won't go there.

My guess is the front wing will flex and drag the ground. You only need the smallest of wings, and as long the air pressure under the car is lower then above it won't take off.

I took it for a 1/2 throttle steering test in front of my house and I just can not believe how well the steering works again. The front didn't drag but I have the shocks limited and bump stopped so the chassis/front nose can only rub after it comes off a curb or large bump in the road that gets it air. I'm not too concerned about drag as the motor and ESC temps are nice and in line, I can gear up much farther.

So far so good. Tomorrow I will have more light and be able to test it for real on my long flat stretch of road. Thanks for all the replys everyone

[mAdMan]

After 10 passes I worked up the throttle dial to 78% and saw 83.8mph just as the right rear CVD pin disappeared. Boot is still on with no tears, set screw set, grease packed, and brand new right rear arm has the tell tale slice . The car took a massive spin out into the dirt. Only lost some body work everything else looks/feels ok.



The new clip got shredded and the car covered with dirt. I called it a day.




I KNOW the car will do 100, just wondering if the driver can. ya I said it. Someone had to.

[klavy69]

I've heard locally of the silicone rubber cvd boots losing pins like this and still being in place but have never seen heatshrink tubing do that ...but then again no one I know is running these kinds of speeds.

Todd

[mAdMan]

Since the cup pivots around the ball and hinges internally on the pin I am going to tack weld the pins in on the outside of the cup and grind if needed.

[jwscab]

You might want to go back to bones.

[mAdMan]

You might want to go back to bones.

+1. I was thinking about this before bed last night. I need to rebuild the rear end anyways. My aluminum rear 1.5 degree hubs showed up.

[mAdMan]

New list:
Shim all the arms, tighten everything.
Add FT rear 1.5 degree hubs swapped L to R and bearings (1.5 degree positive toe total)
Tighten steering, replace ball and cups that remain with 5.5mm RPM ones
Replace front wing
Glue diff and check/clean the transmission while open
Replace CVDs with 1/4" stub axles and new dogbones
Readjust all turnbuckles
Swap front arms with 10b to lower chassis and gain suspension movement

[mAdMan]

Getting there...new FT hubs, 1/4 dog bone stub axles, bearings, RPM ends, ball ends, heims, front arms, inner and outer hinge pins...



Can't find a FT front aluminum bulkhead but no worries, all the shims have tightened everything up nicely


Swapped sides and had to space the hub side camber mount to clear the spring. It should handle better with longer camber links.




Side note I love these

[slotcarrod]

For high speed you should try to run zero toe. Toe will scrub speed.

[mAdMan]

I have no way to do this that I can find. The GT2 comes with 3 degrees rear toe and it's not adjustable. The only thing I could think of was to replace the hubs...I could fill and redrill the rear arm mounts...

[slotcarrod]

Put the left hub on the right side!

[mAdMan]

Yup that's the only way to get it down to 1.5 degrees. 3 degrees originally on the arm mounts. Swap left to right and that's how I can get it down to 1.5 degrees total. It does require a bit more modification it's not just a simple swap. Wish I could go zero but that would require new arm mounts.

[mAdMan]

Here is a few ideas I've had, decided to check em out today

Dual coilovers


Dual shock single coil


Steering stabilizers





Comments are welcome

[Coelacanth]

Why the dual shocks? Are you bottoming out? It would seem for speed runs, you should be choosing surfaces with as few bumps as possible, so a beefed-up suspension seems pointless. If you're bottoming out, rebuild the front shocks to be stiffer, accordingly. Double the shocks is unnecessary added weight, IMHO.

[mAdMan]

Very good points. I figure the extra dampening ability could be helpful above 80mph. I have a nice flat road (seen in the videos) but it's not perfect. It sits high enough so I don't need the spring, I think I might give picture 2 and 3 a try (dual shock/single coil with 30wt, and the steering stabilizers with 20wt).

The truth is I need a lot more weight on this thing and I don't really want to just add lead.