Spares

Everything pertaining to the RC10 re-releases.
Classic, Classic Clear, World's, etc...

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Farabomb
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Spares

Post by Farabomb »

Since the LHS stocks nothing and I have to order everything what should I keep on hand as spares?

C hubs, Arms F&R, mounts F&R, front tower... what else? Are the RPM arms worth ordering? I have them on every other car and haven't had issues.

Titanium screw kits. I'm aware here is a FT Aluminum kit but I had that for my RC18 and I remember shearing a lot more bolts than with the steel ones. Does anyone make a Titanium kit or can at least point me in the direction of a supplier.

Any other companies I should be looking at for parts? At one time everyone made parts for the RC10, not anymore.
When in doubt, throttle out. It may not help the situation but it will end the suspense

RC: Org RC10 ReRe RC10 Worlds RC18T RC18B RC18R SCX10 Wraith MREV T-Maxx Subaru Brat Blackfoot QX180 ProtoX PFV and Nano

Crewchief for AZPInstalls BRZ PTD racecar

SnoopMaxx
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Re: Spares

Post by SnoopMaxx »

When I got my RC10 Classic, I bought enough spares to build 1½ to 2 cars minus the chassis

And it all depends on how much your driving, bashing or racing it
I have a set of 10 and 10T RPM arms and they are plenty strong, just remember to strengthen the next link
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Nobby Sideways
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Re: Spares

Post by Nobby Sideways »

As I understand it, and be aware I'm a complete novice, titanium screw kits shear for a past-time. Better off sticking with normal spec, the weight saving must be tenths of a gram.

Farabomb
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Re: Spares

Post by Farabomb »

Since you brought that up I did a little googling and Grade 5 6AL-4V Titanium has a shear strength of 79,800psi and Grade 5 has a shear of 72,000psi. Grade 8 steel clocks in at 90,000psi shear but I doubt AE uses grade 8 in their hardware. For comparison, 7075 aluminum has a shear around 48,000psi

Weight isn't an issue for me in the RC car really. We look for whatever weight we can save on our 1:1 racecar but that is so we can add the weight where we want it. It helps when we corner balance and align the car so we add it as low as possible and offset to get the balance 50:50 F/R and as close to even side to side. The side to side is a bit tough as the driver is a bit of a variable.

I took the car out for it's first run and managed to flip it so tower are on the list definitely. Since I've been playing with crawlers mostly for a last few years I forgot about how vulnerable they are.

I understand about strengthening the next weakest link but there is a limit. Sometimes it's better to have a failure point that's easier and less expensive to replace. We've learned with racing Subarus having a super strong clutch leads to broken transmissions. It's better to replace the clutch and flywheel than grenade your worked and very expensive transmission.

I have bought screw kits for my wraith and SCX10 but damn if I can't find the labels of the manufacturer. I want to say KNS but I might be confusing it with a brake dealer I know in N.C. I'll take a look at the LHS tomorrow and see if I can get the contact info of the manu and see if they have a RC10 kit avilable.
When in doubt, throttle out. It may not help the situation but it will end the suspense

RC: Org RC10 ReRe RC10 Worlds RC18T RC18B RC18R SCX10 Wraith MREV T-Maxx Subaru Brat Blackfoot QX180 ProtoX PFV and Nano

Crewchief for AZPInstalls BRZ PTD racecar

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scr8p
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Re: Spares

Post by scr8p »

I wouldn't worry about the steel screws, but the 8-32 aluminum screws in the rere kits are awful. I'd replace them with something from fastener express or elsewhere.

100 degree machine screws

http://www.fastener-express.com/aluminum-fasteners-nuts-washers.aspx

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GoMachV
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Re: Spares

Post by GoMachV »

I'm with scr8p, but if you must have a screw kit- your looking for KNK. he is good people to deal with
It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas
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Nobby Sideways
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Re: Spares

Post by Nobby Sideways »

Another 1:1 racer! My day job is Aeronautics but my weekend job is freelance mechanic for various race teams in the UK, from GT Cup (ex-DTM M3, class winning car) and a lot of MX5 (Miata) cars in various UK series.

It seems engineers gravitate to certain hobbies....

Sorry to distract from your thread.

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RC10th
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Re: Spares

Post by RC10th »

If the local shop stocks nothing AE or limited stuff the best bet is to buy another kit for spares, that way if you break something you can replace it with one from the kit. Then you can order said broken part to put back in the kit.

I tried this method a few times but I always ended up building the spare kit :roll:
I was old school - when old school wasn't cool !

Farabomb
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Re: Spares

Post by Farabomb »

I had that thought after seeing how AE wants $85 for a new tub. I may go that way but like you, there is a good chance I'll end up building it. :lol:

@MachV, that's the dude. I'll have to give him a ring.

@Nobby, no worries m8. I've been playing around at the track for the last 15+ years. Started with needing some parts for my Subaru and within a month I'm down at VIR with people I just met wrenching on anything and everything. I also help with NASA's Timing and scoring and really anywhere they need help. Nothing better than the smell of fuel, brakes and tires in the morning. I'm presently crewchief for our PTD car so mainly I keep the driver and owner happy.
When in doubt, throttle out. It may not help the situation but it will end the suspense

RC: Org RC10 ReRe RC10 Worlds RC18T RC18B RC18R SCX10 Wraith MREV T-Maxx Subaru Brat Blackfoot QX180 ProtoX PFV and Nano

Crewchief for AZPInstalls BRZ PTD racecar

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