My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's

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GoMachV
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Re: My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's

Post by GoMachV »

Both do, and I tried to misalign it on purpose, it can't be the problem- pushes everything out too far

You got both slipper disks? That would do it
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Re: My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's

Post by scr8p »

Do both of the slipper hubs slide down the topshaft without issue?

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Re: My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's

Post by joey_zrl »

Hmm, this is a tricky one. What spur gear are you using howaboutme?

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Re: My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's

Post by scr8p »

I couldn't really replicate it myself, but I'm starting to think the hub of the spur is too wide. The slipper hubs at hitting it before making contact with the pads. It's hard to tell from pics, but it even looks like the slipper hubs are kinda sticking out more than they should.

Try grinding both sides of the spur's hub down.

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Re: My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's

Post by howaboutme »

Thanks for the comments all!

Both hubs slide down and yes, it's very obvious when it is not aligned.

The spur is this, not the kit:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWMG6

Makes me think I should use the kit one and see...Very strange indeed. I'll compare the hubs tonight.
- Jack

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Re: My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's

Post by DaveM »

Hi,

It looks like the nut is bottoming out on the threads before the slipper pads have been compressed enough to stop slipping.

The flat section on the shaft that the slipper rides on may be too long.

There is a modification to put a Associated # 9602 top shaft spacer on the shaft first, the case on the slipper side needs to be

drilled out for the spacer.

Page 8, step 4, you can see the spacer.

https://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/cars_and_trucks/RC10B4.2/Brushless_RTR_LiPo_Combo/manual_B4.2RS.pdf

Has anyone got a good shaft to measure how long the flat section should be?

:)

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Re: My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's

Post by GoMachV »

if it was too short, the backplate would hit the motor plate which is a known problem
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Re: My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's

Post by howaboutme »

Ok guys..I think I am narrowing it down w/ your help. This pictures is key to what I am hypothesizing:

http://www.rc10talk.com/download/file.php?id=110346&mode=view

First, I tried another 72T NIB and same issues. I also tried the kit supplied 81T, same but doesn't seem as loose. That could be my mind though.

Now..What I also did was exchange slipper hubs. I tried to put what was the inside hub on the outside. What happened? The hub that has been on the outside all of this time did not slip into the shaft. Trust me, I tried hard. Now, keep that in mind as you look at GoMachV's pictures above. Knowing that I am supposed to be able to interchange the hubs, I went back to my old arrangement and put the original inside inside and the original outside on the outside. I can notice now that the hub does not sit as far down as the shaft as GoMachV's picture. It looks like the outer hub sits roughly flush where the shaft turns shapes. In my situation, the hub is still further up the shaft.

Taking all of that in and the fact that I couldn't switch the hub placement makes me think that the hub is deformed in some way and will not allow it to go as far down the shaft as necessary to tighten the slipper.

What do you guys think of that? Have you heard of that and what are my ways to solve it? Just a new part?

Thanks.
- Jack

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Re: My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's

Post by GoMachV »

Yeah it sounds like the flats are out of spec or something was machined wrong. Can you get a pic straight thru the hole? Regardless, they should be interchangeable so if it won't slide onto the shaft then that is the issue. If you can get it to fit, use it as the inner hub since it will be stationary all it's life
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Re: My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's

Post by howaboutme »

To be honest, the holes look right if looking right through the barrel. I think the problem is very minute. Boy did I try though.

I emailed AE (again)..They'll know me by the time I finish this build! :?

Thanks for your help. At least I can continue on the build while I wait for this..
- Jack

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Re: My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's

Post by DaveM »

Hi,

One step at a time.

Take the slipper off, does the top shaft turn easily, just using your fingers?

If it didn't before or doesn't now, you have probably collapsed the slipper spring by over tightening it,

to be able to get the top shaft to turn.


The way I would fix it is,

Put a drill on the top shaft and keep spinning the gearbox, until when you take the drill off,

you can turn the top shaft by just rolling it with your thumb and index finger,

Next order a # 9602 spacer and and a new # 7486 slipper spring.

Drill case to clear the spacer, assemble the gearbox, install spacer and slipper assembly with new spring,

Now everything should work.

:)

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Re: My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's

Post by GoMachV »

He determined in his last couple posts that the one hub will not go onto the slipper shaft fully
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Re: My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's

Post by scr8p »

The spacer on a b4/t4 goes inside the trans case. It's not needed on rc10.

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Re: My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's

Post by howaboutme »

Yes, thank you.

I think I found the issue. I know and was prepared for all of this because it's been well documented by other Re-Re builders. Still annoying though. I understand DaveM's suggestion as I've read about that too, though slightly differently because the trans case is different. For this instance, I'd prefer to get the initial desired transmission design to work (w/ help from AE, hopefully w/ replacement parts). That same reason is why I have not decided to take the suggestion of buying 6565 and 6570 to fix it...
- Jack

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Re: My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's

Post by GoMachV »

It was as a work around though, people were modifying the case and adding it to do the same thing as a properly machined top shaft (I know you know this, just laying it out for future readers)
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