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Very nice Niki! This will be a popular piece

Thanks Niki!! I'm hoping to place the inaugural order. GoMachV, I'll be in touch soon.

Ff

Gathering parts for the build. Niki, the MJF parts look great and feel pretty study. Jeff, the carbon work is fantastic. I've cleaned up the pan and plan to have it Cerakoted.

A photo per chance?

Sorry, not too much to see yet. I planned on dropping off the pan and nose section for Cerakote last Friday but couldn't get off work in time. Tis the season when massive corporate projects are due ASC7364 rear hubs are now showing and in-stock date of mid December.

Here’s the tower set (also shown is one of my trans braces)

bgLGT wrote: ↑Sat Dec 09, 2017 1:28 pm Gathering parts for the build. Niki, the MJF parts look great and feel pretty study.

I got some MJF parts also and I agree. Good thing about MJF is that material properties are equal in all X-Y-Z directions.

Tower set looks great.

Sorry about the hiatus guys. Life got in the way and I've been scrounging more parts. The tungsten Cerakote came out awesome! It should be more durable than powder coat or Type 2 ano.

That color is amazing. Something different for sure. Its gonna be a sharp ride.

A question for those smarter than myself. Any other front axle options? Those inlines are tricky to find. EDIT found a pair, carry on!

Really enjoying putting new life into the car.

Hi, good you found axles. These are the options I know...

Pan car axle #8443 can be used. Axle thick end is shorter than #6220 but with a shim washer you can stop bearing cutting into plastic.


If you want slightly narrower front end, B3/T3 axle #7221 can be used. Then you need to take a little bit material off from the steering block.


-Niki-

Hey Nikki im kind of new here hut just got back into RC after a 25 plus year hiatus and did it in a big way....i need to credit your Nix91 project as the reason i got back into this ...what a work of art!!
Started wuth a B5 and walked int a screaming deal on a 2 for one and after pillaging offer up im currebtly at this:
B5M
B44.2
T4.2
B3
T3
AND last but not least is a T2 slider im going to make a quadra symmetric.
I have a copius amount of the correct hubs and ancillary parts needed, my question is this:
Im planning on using a T2 chassis with the front and rear bulkheads as well as the front and rear shock sizes 1.02 fronts and 1.32 rears....will this work with both front and rear T2 towers??
Ive got a brand new never ever cut RC10 Viper body form the original team car just waiting to be used here.
Am i missing anything besides your arms and rear mounts?

It may not, the T2 chassis uses the 2 outside holes in the 4 hole rear arm mount (stock), but the buggy chassis (10T as well), use either the front pair or rear pair - if that makes sense. The quad rear arm mounts may not work on a T2 chassis. 2nd, look up the B1.5 builds on here (Scr8p has a bunch), the chassis is longer, and should probably be trimmed back/shortened to make a legit sized buggy.

Regardless - looking forward to your build!

yeah, you will have to drill and countersink another set of holes in the chassis to align with the quadra arm mounts. then trim some length off the nose of the chassis to make it buggy length. you can use the nose plate as a drill guide.

you could run the rear tower and add another set of holes to align where the 1.32" shocks would be on a buggy tower, and then use the 'ears' of the rear tower for wing mount locations, if that makes sense.

for the front tower, you can use it, but you would really want something like the rpm worlds style tower, which stands the shock a little more upright. guys have noted the suspension is a little too progressive with the shock leaned in too far.

last, and this might be a little bit of a bugger, the t2 uses the larger diff gear so even though it's sunk into the chassis, it sits higher than a stealth trans with the 2.25:1 gear. I'm not sure how much wiggle room the quadra suspension provides, but you need to make sure your dogbone plunge, rear camber, and droop and axle shimming are all set up correctly to keep from spitting the bones.

Yeah, to do this on a T2 the tub would need to be shortened ( to be quadra-symmetric), and each side of the tub would need a new arm mount hole drilled and countersunk (front hole).