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I don't think there is difference fitment wise, just color. As far as I know if it says World's car bulkhead it should be black, but I can't say for sure. If all else fails you could call perhaps and ask. But like it was already mentioned the part number for white or black is the same.

Are you sure it's 6232? I'm getting a shock tower on the associated website under that number:

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/6232-ASC6232-front_shock_tower/

6323 is the p/n. White only though.

RS Chris wrote:6323 is the p/n. White only though.

Whoops I was dyslexic when I typed it in!

That is my fault for listing the wrong part #.

So here's a random question - the current worlds car tub chassis with the H indentation will fit the 10t truck, right? I assumed it was the same but I didn't want to grab one on the cheap then find out it didn't!

I also got quoted on my current chassis and it's honestly not all that bad. I want to do something with it but for expediency I think I'm going to grab another chassis to get a roller going...

Yes,

After the worlds came out, it was an optional replacement chassis for the 10T.

You can find it in the RC10T parts list.

Cheers, Dave.

Ok started pulling things off the old truck and breaking things down for cleaning and re-dying. I did the original parts in like 1993 with who knows what for dye... so they've turned almost like a brown to maroon in spots. I'm going to use Rit to dye over the old stuff (which is probably Rit too)...

Ive bought a few additional rpm parts, A&L parts, associated CVDs, and Lunsford turnbuckles.... but not like my other RC Carbon works build that's basically all aftermarket and very minimal factory stuff. Actually pretty much the opposite! I've settled on a black with fluorescent yellow theme as you can see from some of the accent pieces below:



Any idea if I can just drop the old rusty hardware, screws, balljoints, etc... in evaporust? Has anyone done that and had success?

yes evaporust will clean up rusty hardware if it's just phosphoric acid. which it probably is.

I would definitely go with a new/used chassis over your chassis welded. to get that a. smooth, b. flat, c. strong would be prohibitively expensive. and not worth it. Welding aluminum does a couple of things: it will need to be reanodized, and the biggest is that with so much welding it will be weak and warped to hell.

Keep the chassis you drilled original, don't weld it. Find a new Worlds chassis or even a rere worlds chassis if you don't care about the missing B stamp. The rere is cheap.

Very nice so far. I'm doing the same exact thing now.

Anyone using Proline Trencher 2.2t's? I had blackfoot tires on my old 10t but those dry rotted... I'm looking for something that could be used for back yard fun and it any type of racing or anything...

firebird1999us wrote: ↑Mon Mar 27, 2017 8:35 pm Anyone using Proline Trencher 2.2t's? I had blackfoot tires on my old 10t but those dry rotted... I'm looking for something that could be used for back yard fun and it any type of racing or anything...

I just put a set on my old T. They don't fit the old 3 piece wheels you have to get the standard one piece wheels and glue them. They are tall tires and like all modern tires are very flexible latex like. I taped the rear tires so they wouldn't have the balooning effect at high RPM. They come with open cell white foam inserts. They are taller than the stock RC10T tires at 4.1 inches diameter. They seem to have a good all purpose tread and are proline's "yellow" compound which is the second hardest in the lineup.

^^^ thanks for the writeup and tips! I actually grabbed some. Now that I've almost got our house back together after it was destroyed by a pine tree I should be able to finally assemble stuff on my next vacation

firebird1999us wrote: ↑Thu May 18, 2017 8:38 am ^^^ thanks for the writeup and tips! I actually grabbed some. Now that I've almost got our house back together after it was destroyed by a pine tree I should be able to finally assemble stuff on my next vacation

Nice! A few more tips:
Be careful with the white open cell foam it can tear easily when taking it out or putting it in. Also clean off the bead area with some rubbing alcohol before gluing them to rims. It cleans up the release agent used at the factory. And you will need to vent the rims or tires. I did the rims in two spots, directly opposite with a small drill bit.