RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Lonestar wrote:Looking good, good color combo body/wheels

For setup, look for Ruffy's team car setup on this site. should get you pretty close

Thanks for the compliment Lonestar! I will definitely check out Ruffy's setup. Thank you.

JK Racing wrote:I never drove a car with the A&L arm kit. Love them, have owned a few, but never drove one, LOL.

You are no doubt a collector, lol. The trailing arm setup sure does look sweet though. I think you have to drill a couple of holes in the chassis to mount them if I'm not mistaken. Not sure I want to do that. If I can grab an extra chassis...maybe.

joey_zrl wrote:You are no doubt a collector, lol.

Oh, quite the contrary, I am a racer. I built up a couple, just never got them onto a track. Some were just to pretty to beat up so I let them go to a collector If it lives here, it get electronics and dirt in its teeth. Not everything is race ready, I am electronics poor and cannot get full brushless systems into all my cars at once

You sound just like me. I build them up (slowly) as time and wallet permit. I waited a grueling seven months after my 8ight-E 3.0 build was completed to finally get all of the electronics, lipo. charger, and custom body. It's too pretty to beat up, and plus they didn't make the 3.0 for long. So it may be worth something one day, lol.

Well, I emailed Associated and Don told me the first thing to try regarding my notchy transmission, was to take the transmission out of the car and use a high-pressure air hose to spin up the transmission gears in one direction for two minutes, and then the other direction for two minutes. He said he has built over 60 of these cars, and they all have had this issue. He did send me a new idler and gear case that should be here this weekend. If not, Monday.

So I tried what he said, and it did not help. It's just too tight to spin freely, no matter what you do. It seems to be in the gears themselves. The transmission is notchy all the way around, but you can tell there's a high spot, because it's really 'catchy' in one spot on the rotation. Here's to hoping the new idler and case fixes the problem.

The good news is that I got in contact with a local track to see if they race vintage class. They said no, but I am welcome to run with the other buggies in either the 17.5 or 13.5 classes! So I am super stoked to finally get to race! I don't care if I win, because more than likely most of the other cars will be modern mid-motor. It would be cool if I could tune my car to be competitive though. That's my plan.

Back at the Hall of Justice... I'm researching esc and motor combos, lipos, and steering servos. I think I want to keep the battery at full size to make weight. Not really sure on that yet, as I hear that Beachline has some of the stickiest clay around. I probably could use a shorty, and add weight up front for better turning on the tight twisters. There's a lot to consider it seems...

I guess I just need to make good choices on my electronics, and make small changes at the track as I go. I've already got a 4pls radio, so an extra Rx is all I would need. Should be fun.

Ok, I received the idler and diff case from Associated today in the mail. They were the same WC parts that I received in the kit. I just finished installing the new parts, and there's no difference. I still feel a high spot in the rotation, and it feels notchy all the way around. Looks like I'll be ordering the correct parts to make it work.

I'm still enjoying this project though. I'm not going to let this little issue cause any dismay. I'll update this thread as I get new parts, and report my progress.

I would build the trans and just run it hard to see if it loosens up. While you do that, order the new parts so you are ready to swap out if the trans doesn't free up.

jwscab wrote:I would build the trans and just run it hard to see if it loosens up. While you do that, order the new parts so you are ready to swap out if the trans doesn't free up.

Thanks jwscab. I was actually just reading a few threads on this subject, and a few people 'just ran the car' and it really seemed to help free things up.

I just finished going through the transmission once more to check the tightness of the case screws, and binding in the cvd's. All good there. The top shaft clears just fine as well. I decided to 'try' to spin up the transmission with an air compressor one more time, in both directions, and I actually got the thing spinning! Quite more freely I might add! Progress!!!

I'm going to try running the car and see if that frees it up even more.

ep, mine was tight, but just running it twice freed it up so that it then felt normal.

yellowdatsun wrote:ep, mine was tight, but just running it twice freed it up so that it then felt normal.

That's very good to know. Thanks yellowdatsun. Unfortunately, I have had this build on hold for a while. My wife and I just bought our first home together, and we just put new tires on our vehicles. Next is gutters. So first things first, haha.

Although, on the bright side...It's always good to have a nice r/c project just waiting for you to give it some attention. The anticipation is a killer though!

After a long wait...I just made a big order for my RC10 World's Car.

Tower Hobbies:

ASCC7499 Associated Low Friction Ball Cups 1 5.39
ASCC4680 Associated Stealth Differential Gear 1 2.19
ASCC2322 Associated Self Threading Locknuts (8) 1 1.79
ASCC4300 Associated E-Clips 1/8 Shaft (12) 1 1.79
ASCC9601 Associated Top Shaft RC10B4 1 7.79
ASCC8268 Associated Pinion Gear 48P 31T 1 4.69
ASCC5426 Associated Silicone Shock Fluid 27.5 Weight 2 oz 1 3.89
DTXC1433 Duratrax Bearing 1/4x3/8" Flanged (2) 2 11.98
ASCC4670 Associated Stealth Idler Shaft & Gear 1 2.99
ASCC0565 Associated Stealth Transmission Case 1 4.69
ASCC7484 Associated Factory Team V2 1/10 Shock Rebuild Kit (4) 1 6.99
ASCC1597 Associated Factory Team Tire Adhesive 1 7.29
ASCC9649 Associated Spur Gear 48P 72T B4/T4 1 5.99
ASCC1787 Associated Factory Team Battery Strap Thumb Screws (2) 1 5.39
PROC6186 Pro-Line Closed Cell Foam Insert 2WD Buggy F (2) 1 6.76
JCOC0279 JConcepts Detonator Worlds RC10 Worlds Body w/5.5 Wing 1 22.10
PROC8203 Pro-Line Positron 2.2" M4 Off-Road Buggy Rear Tires (2) 1 17.64
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
AMain Hobbies:

1 x HWA38020402
Hobbywing XERUN Justock Zero Spec Sensored Brushless ESC/Motor Combo (17.5T)
$94.99
1 x PTK-3041
ProTek RC Aluminum Servo Mount Grommet (Blue) (4)
$5.94
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SMC Racing:

Factory Spec 7.4V 5000mAh 40C Deans 5040-2S1PD 1 $26.95
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ebay:
Futaba R203GF 3-Channel S-FHSS Receiver FUTL7603 1 $37.99

Over the weekend I rebuilt the transmission to true ae specs, using real ae parts (not the china WC parts) glued up the tires, installed FT battery strap thumb screws, installed bearings on the steering rack, and replaced the stock gearing with 31/72 gearing.

I used the soft Proline foams on the front tires, and the closed cell hard foams on the rears. I went with the Blockade rear tires for now, and I'm saving the Positrons for racing. The Hobbywing XERUN XR10 Zero Spec ESC + 17.5T G2 motor works beautifully in this car.

I'll probably install the FT low-friction ball cups this weekend.

I have two clear JConcepts Detonator World's car bodies that I get to paint. Looking forward to that.

For my next project, I'm going to focus on getting a NIX concepts NIX10M kit.

I'm excited to say that I'm making a little more progress towards this build in the finishing stages. I have two JConcepts Detonator Worlds bodies to paint, and I just picked up some Auto-Air Candy2O paint and some Createx Pearl White. I'm trying to think of a nice divider color to go with those. Not sure yet. Ideas are welcome!

Also, I just picked up a set of JConcepts Diamond nose brace tubes in silver. I'm glad to have found a set, because I hear they won't be making them anymore after they are gone.

http://www.jconcepts.net/shop/rc10-diamond-nose-brace-tubes

Nicely done!

Great job on the build! After reading through I realized you're the same guy that posted about the HW ESC and Motor and helped me with some soldering notes. I will be following along if you have further updates. That parts list you posted from your orders a few posts ago is super informative. Thanks!