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Thanks. Yeah, the stuff turned out pretty nice.

scr8p wrote:Thanks. Yeah, the stuff turned out pretty nice.

Yes indeed! If you don't mind, what is your technic for rounding and shaving the sides? Your work looks like it was just pulled out of the box right from the manufacturer.

Nothing special in my arsenal.
For rounding corners and such, I find something laying around that has the radius I'm looking for...... like an AE shock parts tree. Then i use it as a guide to mark the part.
Then I'll take the drum sander dremel bit and grind the shaded area away.
On the sides I just lay out some tape to use as a guide and use the cut-off wheel in the dremel.
After it's cut, i'll smooth is off with some 100 grit on a block. Then hit it with a little 180-220. I'll probably hit the edges with 400 before I send the parts out for ano.
That's about it.

You make it sound easy, but from experience it takes a steady hand,

and lots of patience.

Yeah, you do have to take your time. Especially on the tub sides.

DaveM wrote:You make it sound easy, but from experience it takes a steady hand,

and lots of patience.

My thoughts exactly!

DaveM wrote:You make it sound easy, but from experience it takes a steady hand,

and lots of patience.

That's a definite but with Jason's background in bodywork I think he already lives and breathes patience with a steady hand. There he goes being modest and humble again

Todd

Hey, I screw stuff up too.

Drill bits walking, heavy handed countersunk holes, cutting the wrong side of a tape line........... removing way to much material on an RPM trans case.

scr8p wrote:Hey, I screw stuff up too.

so you're saying you're human too

Todd

I try to screw up a lot less these days.

Got some bits and pieces in the mail for this. The B4 CF battery hold down will get altered a little bit to look more like the one used on the original. Also got black hub carriers to replace the white ones that will either become spares for this car at the track or used on something else. I got the full Punisher turnbuckle kit (and a small pack for the servo arm) just to make it easier, but I kinda wish I would've called to see if they would swap a pair of the punishers for retros for the rear camber links. I may still do that and just use this kit on something else. We'll see.

The rear wheels are Traxxas 1/16 E-revo wheels. They're 2.2, and unlike the rere wheels, are wide like the B4 wheels and will give a nice flat surface for the wheel dots. I've had the fronts in my wheel box, Proline widebody b3 fronts. Gonna use them with 6220 axles instead of the B4 wheels and wide axles. I have a bunch of them, time to start using some of them. I also got a Proline Mirage SS body for it, but forgot to put it in the pic.

those wheels are a godsend for the early Kyosho cars that need an offset wheel. The hub area is thin tho, might need a washer!

Yeah, a couple washers.

I picked up a pair of black rear hubs for this to mimic the original car and not have to dye anything. So I'm throwing the rear suspension together and what do you know..... The black hubs are all of a sudden just as bad as the hub's from the classic kit. The bearings just fall in and wiggle all around. So I ended up dying the ones from the kit anyway.

GoMachV wrote:those wheels are a godsend for the early Kyosho cars that need an offset wheel. The hub area is thin tho, might need a washer!

I run those wheels on my MERV and have had no issues with them. I think you will be fine without the washer. I have a set of the Pro-Line Sand paws on a set of those rims as well and they seem to hold up just fine. They are a little big for the MERV though.