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I'm not sure about the original square RC10 hub vs, the rere worlds RC10 hub vs, the RPM hub? Perhaps one would work better. Also considered a B4 hub but the B4 hub is different, wider I think... I have all three RC10 hubs on hand and an extra RPM B4 hub. last night I almost tried to fit the worlds CVA and bearings in the older square hub (to see if it moved the bone in) but thought it was a long shot and didn't bother.

I think moving the blue spacer to the inside is an interesting idea. Concerned the wheel might not mount correctly however.

I'm going for mostly stock CE with the proper axles to use the 2.2 wheels and tires. Don't have any plans to race but I do enjoy hot laps down the sidewalk and back up the street.

Option A: is to use the B44 rear center bone ASC 9911. I'll be able to try that Saturday. Option B: is to use the 3/16" stub axel and go back to the original CE dog bones.

Love the participation in this forum and welcome other ideas.

I don't remember when AE switched over, but I think the B4 used smaller diameter hinge pins so you'd have to drill out the hub to accommodate the RC10 hinge pins.

I was curious if the hub thickness would be off by even just 1/32" with the different hubs which would help with the dog bone issue. You'd have to break out the calipers to see.

The world's vs square hubs should be identical. Depending on which rpm hubs you have, they will move the axle out and up. The B4 hub will move the axle way out and the world's cva won't fit.

What wheels are you trying to fit? B4 wheels? If so you have some homework to do.

I'm using the rere 2.2 worlds wheels on the CE. I have a B4.1 and test fit those wheels but the offset is wrong and the B4 wheel rubs the shock. The worlds 2.2 wheels are a better fit. Hopefully the B44.1 center rear shaft (ASC9911) is just a few mm longer and will be the ticket.

There are few ways to make a 2.2 tire and wheel fit. Lots of good info here. I think wanting to use the blue spacer on the outside of the worlds hub is causing the issue. It moves the CVA out just enough that the bone isn't engaged in the outdrive. However, I want that blue spacer behind the wheel.

I looked at using the B3 CVDs but it appears they don't use the blue spacer behind the wheel. I also believe I've read about using B4 wheels and hubs. I may end up there but wanted to start by trying to make the rere worlds wheel, hub and axel work.

I hoped the worlds CVA and hubs would be plug and play. There is a lot of geometry to work out.

I don't see why the worlds would be any different to the CE as they use the same geometry. How is your camber set on the rear?

If you do go down the B4 hub/wheel combo I've got a hybrid AE/Yokomo drive shaft that works excellent.

yeah, the worlds re-re parts are just a bit short, but should fit the CE the same. I know guys have limited droop, and added a touch of camber to bring the bone in. you may also run the rear in long and short wheelbase which will change the relative position of the axle, which might also change the bone length if you aren't set up like the worlds car. I think the rear camber link might also be set differently, which could also affect the camber gain and location of the bone.

Yea, I moved to a short wheel base and put in a little more negative camber to bring the bone in. Both helped but not much. Not to mention, I want the long wheelbase and to be able to adjust camber where I want.

I also like having a lot of droop but that isn't helping. I agree the geometry should be the same. I was surprised to have this issue.

My Lunsford retro worlds rear camber turnbuckles are a little short as well using regular RC10 ball cups. That will be an easier fix but still weird it's not as much of a direct fit as I assumed.

I need to get some better pics up.

The real Worlds car used shorter camber links. AE screwed up the rere and didn't put the holes in the Worlds location. It's easy to drill them yourself tho, right between the rere hole and the upper inside of the group of 9

GoMachV wrote: ↑Wed May 24, 2017 3:07 pm The real Worlds car used shorter camber links. AE screwed up the rere and didn't put the holes in the Worlds location. It's easy to drill them yourself tho, right between the rere hole and the upper inside of the group of 9

Hrm.... didn't know that. Now, I'll have to go home and look at my Worlds vs. Worlds ReRe...

yep, that's the info I was referring to. Gomachv is on the ball with this one.

Super info regarding the OG worlds ball stud location. I had no idea! Easy to fix a couple different ways. That certainly explains why the turnbuckles appear too short.

Just thought I'd share a few pics.
The B44.2 center bone is coming Saturday which probably means Monday. I hate waiting the extra two days. I'm anxious to see if it fits?

The ASC9911 B44.2 rear center bone is a perfect fit. Just a couple mm longer. Great suggestion. Pics of ASC 9911 bone next to worlds rere kit ASC 6371 (ASC9760 in manual). I paired the ASC 9911 with the 3/16 axle. It's a sweet driver. Two battery runs and no issues at all.

Fitment pics at full droop and ride height

very cool and useful - thanks for sharing!

I'll need to remember this too. We should have like a "how to" forum where the main post is how to do something like this and people can give feedback and we can keep up to date how to posts pinned fur the useful stuff.