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Made a little progress on the assembly. The wheels haven't been redone yet, but I bolted them on so I could adjust the camber, toe-in etc. There is no re-using the seal on the belt covers, so I came up with the idea of using servo tape. I took an old decal backing sheet and laid down a strip of servo tape. Then I took my exacto and cut thin strips. I ended up with an easy controlled way to make some nice new seals that sealed well and are super clean, almost invisible, when installed.

That's a good idea. What I've done to seal chain & belt guide covers is silicone glue, but first masking off the lines, so when the glue is finished being applied, I remove the masking tape right away, before it dries. When it's done, it looks nice and clean, and should hold up well over time. The downside is it would be more difficult to remove should I ever need to remove the guides.

I've used clear silicone before on my Optimas to seal the lid like you show there. It worked pretty good and wasn't too too difficult to clean up. I wanted something that I didn't have to wait for it too dry. I've had Optimas where someone used automotive "rtv" silicone and it took me forever to get rid of all the bits of orange crap out of everywhere.

I think I've found the answer to restoring the silver paint on these wheels. After testing many different paints, this one is by far the best and an absolute identical match in color. It comes prethinned and ready to spray in your airbrush. I have tried different rattle cans and even though I got a decent color match with a couple of them, they put out too much paint that is too thick and the results were uncontrollable and less than satisfactory. When I cleaned up my Javelin, I used a "chrome" paint that worked decent but it was very finicky, and being a rattle can, I had no control over the volume of paint. The results weren't bad, but not perfect. This paint likes to be sprayed in thin coats. I sprayed thin coats, one wheel after the other, and by the time I got to the fourth wheel, the first was ready for the next coat. I did four thin coats overall and the results were great. They look like brand new. The color match was perfect and because of the thin coats, it didn't loose any of the original texture. As far as durability, I can't say, but the durability of the original paint was nothing to write home about.

I've used double sided tape on at least one of my Mid builds a few years ago, probably the best way to go as it's not messy and easily removed.

The wheels look like they'll come up well.


Keith

Made some more progress tonight. Finished getting the electrics together. Putting an msc in a car of this caliber seems like a crime, but to keep it original, I had to suck it up. I'm loving the new shoes from Marwan. Next will be to finish trimming the body.

Looking good, which yellow would be right for a box art SE?


Keith

I've been thinking about that myself. I'm going to research it and do some test panels with some of the yellows I have .

You ever have one of those days when nothing goes right? I started trimming the body on this thing this morning and ruined it. Thank god it was a TBG repro and not an original. I'm not new to trimming bodies by any means but these are a pita! Once I got the rear trimmed out reasonably close, which was ridiculous with no cut lines, I eyeballed the front and it appeared that the front alignment mark was too far forward. So I trimmed out the slots for the shock towers a little further back. Once installed in place---you guessed it---I realized I should have went with the alignment mark. The front doesn't look bad, but now the rear is about 3/8" too far forward. If this was just a runner body, which it may end up being, I would just notch out the front more until it fit properly. If I don't order another body and do it correctly, It will drive me nuts every time I look at it. The other problem I'm having is with the msc. It only has 1 speed forward and no reverse. The msc and resistor look practically new. I disassembled the msc to check the condition of the contacts and all looked good. I went ahead and cleaned them all up with some 800 grit while I was in there just to be sure. The only thing I can think of is the resistor. And speaking of the resistor and the body--- I really don't like how they want you to cut out a square hole in the body for the resistor to stick through. This is already a weak spot in the body and now I have to cut away most of the lexan in that area? It makes sense from a cooling standpoint, but it couldn't be a worse design for body shell durability. This brings me to my BIG complaint about this car as it came from Kyosho. I don't understand How they take a "flagship" 4wd racer of the time with all the factory goodies (platinum shocks, countersunk chassis, etc) and then put a crappy msc in it. Normally, I wouldn't hesitate to do away with the msc in favor of an era correct esc, but in this case, that leaves the aluminum mount for the msc hanging out there looking funny with no purpose. I really wanted an original car, but I'm starting to think about doing a few mods. Starting with an esc. Thoughts, anyone?

The problems are the TBG body and the fact that they are undersized. Causes lots of problems when you follow the cut lines and holes. Causes way more problems when you have things that have to line up. If you can find a real body, or a better repop, you should be fine.

I hear good things about Marwan
http://www.marwanrc.com/product.sc?productId=33&categoryId=2

I wasn't going to mention it, but this body from TBG is not as good quality as I expected. I have ordered quite a few bodies from them and was always very happy with their products, especially for the price, but this one was very thin in spots and the cut lines were unclear and altogether missing in places. The real problem though, to be honest, was me thinking I knew better where to trim than the given guide marks. If I would have cut the notches for the front shock tower where it shows to, it would have fit fine. I ordered up another one from them and we'll see if it's better. If I would have thought ahead, I would have ordered one from Marwan when I ordered my tires. His products are great, but they take almost a month to get to me.

TBG's bodies are also inconsistent, from one body to the next. The first body I bought for my 1/12 pan car Buick GNX build was excellent. The second one I bought for a guy who wanted a similar build was thinner in places, and the fender areas were warped and splayed out somewhat compared to the first body, making it a challenge to position the body perfectly aligned over the wheels.

That's what I was thinking might be the case here. I can't talk bad about TBG. They have made it possible to restore many of my cars and their quality has always been quite good in the past.

Basher67 wrote: ↑Thu Oct 26, 2017 1:34 am Not what I wanted to see in the tranny. Looks like new gears are in my future

The Optima Mid is certainly on my bucket list of must-have cars as well. I've ways admired designs and graphics applied to 80's Kyosho cars - sorta reminds me of graphics seen on Yamaha sport bikes from the same era. Anyway, I'm seeing a couple posted on ebay right now but they look pretty rough. If I were to purchase one and the tranny is trashed, what's the best option? I don't care about keeping it original and I plan to make it a runner with nothing wilder than 10.5. Who has gears for these cars?

Rear diffs are expensive to replace; when you see them on eBay, they're usually $50+ just for the rear diff. The front diffs go for $25 - $30.