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It’s frustrating, almost as bad as coming in 3rd-7th at almost every race back in my offroad JrxT and SC10 days those darn sponsored drivers

Anytime you need help bud just ask and to be competitive once you figure out launch you need to be in the 2.5-3.0 sec @ around 55-65mph to be competitive

It seems everyone is using 3.5t motors. Any particular brand more popular down there? I've got a 6.5t in mine to start testing with, but will be installing a 3.5t as I get the car dialed. I've been eyeballing the Trinity Drag Master 3.5t holeshot motor. All my other motors that I race offroad with are Reedy s-plus, but they dont make anything close to a 3.5t to my knowledge.

Basher67 wrote: ↑Wed Mar 11, 2020 10:55 pm It seems everyone is using 3.5t motors. Any particular brand more popular down there? I've got a 6.5t in mine to start testing with, but will be installing a 3.5t as I get the car dialed. I've been eyeballing the Trinity Drag Master 3.5t holeshot motor. All my other motors that I race offroad with are Reedy s-plus, but they dont make anything close to a 3.5t to my knowledge.

You see some trinity drag masters and the real fast guys have Cordova motors, I run old ass Novak brushless stuff from 05 seems to keep up with the new stuff . I'll pay more attention to motors next outing see what the consensus is through the pits...........................

Lots of Tekin stuff is used too.

I hear alot of guys talking about hobbywing motors too. I am a big fan of their esc's but I've never found their motors to be very powerful. In offroad spec classes, the top dog horsepower 17.5 and 13.5 motors are pretty well known (Reedy, R1, Trinity), but with 3.5 and 4.5 motors, I've never seen any motor shootouts or testing. They all seem to be priced fairly close to each other. I'm definitely drawn to the Trinity, and they are known for producing powerful motors, but I'd be lying if I said I wasn't falling for the marketing of a motor called the "Drag Master Holeshot".

I also run Hobbywing BL120’s cheap and they work great, I’m getting ready to purchase a motor from ROTOR RON he basically hot rods factory motors with spec sheets and set up recommendations and his stuff may take me to the next level.

Warning the HW BL120 is not enough ESC per Rotor Ron but it’s been working okay on 3.5,4.5 & 5.5’s I run. We need something in the 150-220amp range to maximize the motors potential same with batteries you need high true C ratings 120c-230c burst with a quality cap pack not the factory stock cap packs.

Batteries is something I need to spend some time looking into for sure. Alot of the "c ratings" printed on a battery seem to be bullbutter when I moniter the internal resistance during charging / discharging.

By the way the Ball Diff didnt work out to well for me even with a badass Shelle slipper kit, I just through in the old gear diff with JB weld and locked the SOB no room for error now.......................

I've considered drilling straight through it and stuffing in a rolled pin to create a spool. It would be much easier to just lock a gear diff with silicone putty or JB.