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Dadio wrote: ↑Mon Jan 11, 2021 6:42 am Maybe the outer one is for a steering limiter pin ? It does look like you could rotate it 90°axially and there would be a pin mount for a bottom arm and the holes for the steering arm would mount a ball for the top arm , a bit like the yokomo 870c had double duty knuckles.

I had another look at them and it does look possible for them to be used that way.

Coelacanth wrote: ↑Mon Jan 11, 2021 1:16 pm Sweet...I do love me some fine-polished shocks!

Same here.

Cleaned up the rear dogbones, drive cups and front universals with a wire brush in the Dremel and some sandpaper. I had to knock a bend out of one of the universals with a hammer. The whole lot was coated with Tamiya black spray paint to stop the dreaded surface rust reforming.

Added the wheel tyre combination of Pargu Hotshot wheels and Schumacher re-release mini pin 2" tyres. The Pro 10 uses triangle drive hubs like the PB Mini Mustang and Tamiya Hotshot series cars.

Loving this build so far!!!

I have a present for you...

Thanks Martin, that's great news. It'll be good to get it fitted.

I got this new in pack motor mount in the post today. It didn't take long to fit. Which allowed me to mount this Checkpoint that I've been saving for something like this. I've got some Sanyo 1700SCE batteries on their way. Now I'll try to find a period correct servo and ESC.
Finding a body for this won't be easy either.

There's one on eBay right now NIB but I'm not sure about it , its not got gold chassis plates and the motor mount is plastic not metal so I'm wondering if the box was raided then parts replaced ? Or was there an early version of the Pro10 ?

Is that the one from the US? There was one on eBay Italy a couple of weeks ago that had a plastic Coyote motor mount in it. Must have been a Friday arvo job. You'd be devastated to open up a NIB Pro 10 and find that.

From what I've read and seen there were Pro 10s that had silver chassis rails, shock mounts and steering arms that bolt to the front and rear hubs as well as anodised gold stuff. A forum member on here "V12", who piloted a prototype TAG said that the golden chassis rails were too thin for the works drivers so thicker rails were used that were silver. That's not to say that all silver rails are thicker though. I've also seen chassis rails that have two, three or four battery cutouts. There's a picture in Dinglem's Coyote build thread of Umberto Pernice's ex-racer that has three battery cutouts and silver chassis rails.

I don't know if TAG had earlier and later Pro 10 kits. Dinglem or V12 might know more.

Maybe transitional kits..... i have just realised that an old donor chassis i have had for a couple of years, which had been rattle canned black is actually gold underneath. The more i look the more Pro-10 i see, but what is interesting isthat the motor mount is metal but is different to the one i just sent over to 1300GT for his build, but it looks original and too well cut to be home made. I am wondering whether it was an early version? It is actually bolted to a plastic Coyote mount.

The plastic motor mount on my coyote had warped badly , I did consider a metal bracing plate as a fix , maybe the factory did too ?
On another topic my main gear in the coyote lost a few teeth the other day ! When I had a look it had simply turned to powder ! No chunks of tooth just white powder ! If your running a genuine spur gear I'd boil it for a while to rehydrate it !

dinglem wrote: ↑Thu Mar 11, 2021 4:09 am Maybe transitional kits..... i have just realised that an old donor chassis i have had for a couple of years, which had been rattle canned black is actually gold underneath. The more i look the more Pro-10 i see, but what is interesting isthat the motor mount is metal but is different to the one i just sent over to 1300GT for his build, but it looks original and too well cut to be home made. I am wondering whether it was an early version? It is actually bolted to a plastic Coyote mount.

It's entirely possible. Maybe a stopgap until they were replaced with the alloy plate mount. Too bad a machined alloy mount was never used in the production kits. I've seen them on Umberto's buggy from the 87 World's and others when using the carbon plate and Ferarri tub chassis'.

Dadio wrote: ↑Thu Mar 11, 2021 8:26 am The plastic motor mount on my coyote had warped badly , I did consider a metal bracing plate as a fix , maybe the factory did too ?
On another topic my main gear in the coyote lost a few teeth the other day ! When I had a look it had simply turned to powder ! No chunks of tooth just white powder ! If your running a genuine spur gear I'd boil it for a while to rehydrate it !

Is that after running it, or has it disintergrated while sitting there? I won't run this one so it shouldn't be a problem.

I was running the car when the spur gave out .

It is fascinating to see all the changes and development of the Coyote chassis. My build has stopped due to new plastic parts breaking. Is boiling the parts the solution? Need another spur gear @Dadio ?

BattleTrak wrote: ↑Sat Mar 13, 2021 9:33 am It is fascinating to see all the changes and development of the Coyote chassis. My build has stopped due to new plastic parts breaking. Is boiling the parts the solution? Need another spur gear @ Dadio ?

Yes please

With nylon parts rehydrating them is a good idea as they need a certain moisture content or they become brittle and some manufacturer's suggested boiling their suspension components to de-stress the plastic , notably PB Racing recommended it and they used a very similar soft plastic as SG Racing but I'd maybe try it on a broken part first !