RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

A little update.
Du-bro 1/16” collars that hold the wing in place.
At the front: Xray 5.8 mm pivot balls are as close to original Yokomo as it gets. Looks much better than the long Kyosho ones.

Serpent has M3 4.5mm pivot balls. But they are open top with 2mm hex....

TRX-1-3 wrote: ↑Tue Jan 31, 2023 2:24 am Serpent has M3 4.5mm pivot balls. But they are open top with 2mm hex....
Screenshot_20230131_162110_Samsung Internet.jpg

Nice! You think that the inner pivots are 4.5 rather than 5.8?
Yokomo aint my "ball park" so I find it hard identifying the different sizes/models of hardware.
Trying to compare the AE ball cups to the Yok pivot links and can't say what size.

Looking really good sankil!
Love the work you have done with the dremel on those front arms, all I need is the courage to do the same!
What front inner hinge pin did you use? They look perfect! I used the front truck ones Associated 7209, and well they are about 3mm too long.

bluewormx wrote: ↑Tue Jan 31, 2023 4:49 am Looking really good sankil!
Love the work you have done with the dremel on those front arms, all I need is the courage to do the same!
What front inner hinge pin did you use? They look perfect! I used the front truck ones Associated 7209, and well they are about 3mm too long.

Thank you bluewormx.
The design of the arms ar a bit different than the original ones so the dremeled bit is well not perfect, but it will do.
If I remember correctly i think it was B2/B3 9110. The a-arms needed a little grinding to accommodate these.

sandkil wrote: ↑Tue Jan 31, 2023 2:54 am

TRX-1-3 wrote: ↑Tue Jan 31, 2023 2:24 am Serpent has M3 4.5mm pivot balls. But they are open top with 2mm hex....
Screenshot_20230131_162110_Samsung Internet.jpg

Nice! You think that the inner pivots are 4.5 rather than 5.8?
Yokomo aint my "ball park" so I find it hard identifying the different sizes/models of hardware.
Trying to compare the AE ball cups to the Yok pivot links and can't say what size.

Well, someone here will undoubtedly know more than I do about this subject, but I've been in pivot ball, ballstud, and ball cup purgatory for months trying to find a combination that will work for one of my "builds". It is my understanding that the older style ballcups (which it appears you are using) are 4.3mm. Team CRC produces a 4.3mm pivot ball with 4-40 threads (hard anodized aluminum). This might be your winning ticket for your inboard steering links. See link. 5.8mm seems large for this time period.
https://teamcrc.com/product/13616-hard-anodozied-link-balls-4/

You might also do a search for "reveD" ball studs. They are 4.3mm titanium and are used on some models of Yokomo drift cars. I cannot remember if they offer a short neck ball or not.

Original RC10 shock end pivot balls were ~5.8mm. The ballstuds were 4.3mm.

Thank you juicedcoupe. I'll return to the Traxxas forum.

About those hard anodized shock caps on the -89 Stealth..
It's not going to happen for my part so I'll go for the next best thing. Enamel paint!
With that said I'm partially color blind so don't ask me for the color blending. I've been at it for the past week but I have used the following:
Model Master Enamel 1787 green drab
Humbrol satin black
Humbrol gloss orange
Humbrol gloss green
Humbrol metallic silver

Started out media blasting the caps to get rid of anno (thought the matt aluminum surface would be perfect to paint on and technically it is, but the color tests failed over and over)
So I polished the caps and then airbrushed the color, thinned and there it was! sort of...
I'm happy with the result and leave it as is.
Also sprayed a couple of green rear springs in olive green (shade? somewhere in the color mixing stages for the caps)

Now is it durable with painted caps? Heck no!! but for a shelf queen, it looks good.

Amazing work sankil, It look like you really are going to town with this!

I fantasise with finding a set of bottom load shock bodies for this, 1.02 and 1.32 and getting them and the caps all hard anodised. It's not going to happen!

The front springs are a funny thing I have 3 different sets of associated green rears: Green plastic coat; Olive (correct ones); and green lacquer one (missing it's pair).

Have you identified the rear springs? they are black with 13 coils. I've used Associated black but they are 10 coils therefore not the right ones. they are not kyosho option house springs as they are 11 coils.

Perhaps counting coils is too obsessive?

BTW, your going to need one 1/8" droop spacer in each of the front shocks like on the NIX91. I can't remember how many I have in the back.

Could the rear black springs be yokomo?

I ended up using Tamiya olive drab on my Cliff Lett replica for the caps and rear springs. It is really close. It was a bit shiny so after paint I scuffed them with scotchbrite.

jwscab wrote: ↑Thu Feb 02, 2023 8:21 am Could the rear black springs be yokomo?

That would be my guess but without a part number and a packet pic. I must count the coils!

bluewormx wrote: ↑Thu Feb 02, 2023 3:51 am Amazing work sankil, It look like you really are going to town with this!

I fantasise with finding a set of bottom load shock bodies for this, 1.02 and 1.32 and getting them and the caps all hard anodised. It's not going to happen!

The front springs are a funny thing I have 3 different sets of associated green rears: Green plastic coat; Olive (correct ones); and green lacquer one (missing it's pair).

Have you identified the rear springs? they are black with 13 coils. I've used Associated black but they are 10 coils therefore not the right ones. they are not kyosho option house springs as they are 11 coils.

Perhaps counting coils is too obsessive?

BTW, your going to need one 1/8" droop spacer in each of the front shocks like on the NIX91. I can't remember how many I have in the back.

Thanks bluewormx
Looks like it's Yokomo zc-2729 for the rear, but I will not spend a decade hunting and $$$$$$ on springs. Sometimes you need to compromise.
Shock spacers are in place.. I will post pics on progress soon. Been at the cabin over the weekend.

jwscab wrote: ↑Thu Feb 02, 2023 8:21 am Could the rear black springs be yokomo?

I ended up using Tamiya olive drab on my Cliff Lett replica for the caps and rear springs. It is really close. It was a bit shiny so after paint I scuffed them with scotchbrite.

Tamiya olive drab? Is that enamel paint as well?
Do you have any picks of the shocks and your Lett replica? I didn't see it in your gallery.

this is is the link to my build, the photos kinda suck, but you can see the color match of the shocks on several of them.

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=44943&hilit=jwscab+cliff+lett

https://www.amainhobbies.com/tamiya-ts28-olive-drab-lacquer-spray-paint-100ml-tam85028/p27880?gclid=Cj0KCQiA54KfBhCKARIsAJzSrdowMeJBanTMldYk0NBCB5RuryYke0ZFw0PZqQQbsZH7OT4xF5y_km8aAgEOEALw_wcB

this is a flat paint, so I used a semi gloss over it, then lightly scuffed it becuase I was look for a low gloss look.

Shocks on!
Now for some metal work