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Just had to take the gearbox apart and check.

No, but seriously I thought this comment can't be true (turned out I should have listened the gut feeling), and wondered how I could answer in a polite way. After all you had put some work into showing me the "right" way.
Alternatively that it was some sort of test. Just didn't understand it was a test of my humor and not building capabilities

jcwrks wrote: ↑Mon May 22, 2023 9:11 am *Edited since the entire post didn't submit and caused confusion. Oops

What a shame - you should really have kept it

So, I haven't settled on electronics and thinking about two alternative routes.

A true to manual large steering servo like Futaba S128, and mechanical speed controller with a small servo like S132H + a matching rx.

The alternative is a Novak setup, and I've always been fascinated with a pure orange layout in a gold pan. I never had this myself, in fact I've never had a NES-1A in a buggy. Thinking about a cluster of NES-1A, Novak 4 and NER-2S - they should all be sort of period correct.

Don't know what you think, but the Edinger motor in the picture below that came with the car doesn't really bring justice to the finish of the car. Have a new Edinger 05 that I feel would be a better match. Maybe a strange match if I go for the Novak setup, but it is a good way to get use of the motor.

That 05 motor would be a great choice. It might be a little older than this RC10 but would have been around at the time. I'm not really a fan of mechanical speed controls for actual use (resistors get so hot) and the Novak setup would have been a high end build back then. I'd do the all orange electronics if you can.

Just FYI, the wiring layout of a 410-M5 fits the RC10 chassis better than a T4. The T4 fits, just not as cleanly.

Thank you both for the input. I'll go for the Novak. Thing is I want the components to be fairly period correct. The only early generation Novak esc I have are the NESC 4 and NESC 1X. The wires are too short so have to resolder.
I'll be using the 4 and as you see in the picture the wiring is identical to the successor T4. However, the 4 is slightly smaller than the T4 and has only got three case screws.

Another little comment worth mentioning is the early version of the NES-1A. The early servos had a silver label (thinking only introdution year 1982) bringing on the "Midget" from its predecessor - the Bantam midget and THE 1/12 servo from the late 70's. Shorly after the silver label came the more common black label Novak Electronics NES-1A. Again, for this build I will use the later black label that is closer to being period correct.

Rounding off the e-department with the NER-2S.

As I intend to resurrect my own late Edinger for some light recreational driving https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=48230 this car will get an easy life on the shelf - so electronics will stay cool, no beaten servo gears and no worries about the 75 mhz

Do you have a G to J adapter for the NES-1A to fit into the Rx.

Now I read your question several times, and after careful consideration found it safe to answer
But really I've had some good laughs at myself for seriously jumping on to your comment - you should not have deleted it.

No, I don't have any adapter. I just picket out the components yesterday when I decided on the Novak set up.
Was thinking of disconnecting the plug and mount a J, have to see if I have one in my drawers.
Also have to find a horn that is ok.

Learned something new today, at least I learned again something I've probably forgotten.

The Novak line of servos, starting on the Bantam Midget line, has a square outdrive - that I know very well, and I have several horns and savers for the Bantam. Then came the NES-1A with the splined outdrive replacing the Bantam – also known. Then came the larger NES-2H, and I knew I had some nice servo horns for that one.

I was thinking the 2H would have the splined outdrive and assuming (and hoping) it was the same as the 1A, being a successor.

Wrong: the NES-2H has a slightly bigger square (4,7 mm) than the old Bantam (4,4 mm). Meaning I have to dig deeper into old parts, OR give in and buy a KP saver. I see there are a few available on ebay.

A stand still for a while on the rebuild due to other projects. Back on the workbench with this car, a question on the shock cap gasket arose.

In my RC10 parts I have different gaskets and old third-party O-rings (e.g. Hot Trick). In general the gaskets/seals orbit +/- round the three rings in the picture attached.

I'm not sure about the left one with OD measuring ≈ 14,4 mm. Is the difference of the left and middle due to production inconsistency, a "third" AE version or third-party/home made one?

The middle one is narrow found on on early Edinger, including the car in this thread (OD ≈15,4 mm, 0,606).

The one on the right is the later version found on Cadillac (OD ≈17,4 mm, 0,675).

Any thoughts one the left one?

Just thought I would also post up some pictures on the comparison of the ayk/ae tires. Since I have an ayk Sidewinder it would be interesting to consult the well-known relationship between the two.
As a predecessor to the RC10, the Sidewinder was going to share it's Good Year shoes with the RC10. The Good Year 7 rib front and knobby rear tires. When the Sidewinder was introduced in Europe early 1984, the RC10 prototype was still depicted in European magazines with Tamiya SRB front wheel, centered single servo saver, and the long Kyosho shocks at the rear end.

But how Associated came about with their own wheels and the use of the same set of rubber found on the Sidewinder I don't know. Probably not more mysterious than AE finding the current wheel dimensions suitable for the RC10 and the ayk tires readily available before they made their own versions.

As you see, the Sidewinder has the Good Year writing on them as we know them from early Edinger. From what I have seen, it seems that maybe the rear wheels were the first without writing on the RC10. Several Edingers on here, including my own has the combination of Good Year front and blank rear. Then you have the later blank 7 rib and the Proline grooved front wheels. And to my understanding they were followed on the late Edinger and Cadillac, by the 4 rib front and knobby rear on without writing, and then with the "Team Associated" on the sides.

Anyway, here is the Sidewinder with the Good Years and comparison to my Edingers.

It is a bit tempting to swap the rears from the Sidewinder to get a complete set of Good Year on the RC10. Haven’t made up my mind, but probably not It's also nice to keep the blanks on as a document of the meandering way of various tires used on the Edingers.