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Short wheelbase, but I don't see how that would change anything in terms of moving the dogbone further inward or outward.

I am pretty sure I got b44 cva's but I will pull the ones outta my w.o.I.n. car to be sure.also I will check the bearing.and right now long wheel base.

stickboy007 wrote:Short wheelbase, but I don't see how that would change anything in terms of moving the dogbone further inward or outward.

Just wondering. Mine only binds on the left side with the stealth diff nut. Right side is fine. This is on a worlds edition with factory shocks. Just can't seem to figure it out.

short vs long wheelbase will change the angle of dogbone and could definitely change a binding situation. whichever position gives the dogbone the greater angle will give you more 'room' so to speak.

Arm mount toe can cause issues as well. 3's may work, 1.5's may not.

I looked at the mounting holes for long and short wheelbase. The change in dogbone angle is slight, and this is will not impact the dogbone plunge, or at last not considerably.

@ foots, you may want to check to make sure your diff is either tightened down correctly (fully tightened minus 1/8 turn) and/or that you have the correct diff nut in there. Some of the diff nuts are longer (like ASC2330), and this can lead to the problem you're having. The diff nut should be part number ASC6575, which is also for the modern B4 series.

stickboy007 wrote:ISome of the diff nuts are longer (like ASC2330), and this can lead to the problem you're having. The diff nut should be part number ASC6575, which is also for the modern B4 series.

Ding Ding Ding this might be a winner. I will check that out for sure. I know something wasn't right as too many members said that combo worked. Just not for me. I knew the nut was the problem but didn't know how to solve it other than cutting off the ears and that was no option.

foots wrote:I knew the nut was the problem but didn't know how to solve it other than cutting off the ears and that was no option.

that to me says that the diff nut is as far down in the outdrive as it's gonna go. which means, you have the correct diff nut.

do you have the plastic piece in the right outdrive with the ears? if not, it could be why one side binds and the other side doesn't.

I know this thread is mainly about rear wheels but I have a question about the fronts.

Since there is nothing special about the steering blocks or bearings that come in Associated's 6801 kit, the wide-track axles are needed simply due to modern wheels' deeper offset and keep the front-end geometry the same, NOT to widen the Classic's narrow front end, correct?



Just checkin'. Thanks.

Bottom Feeder wrote:I know this thread is mainly about rear wheels but I have a question about the fronts.

Since there is nothing special about the steering blocks or bearings that come in Associated's 6801 kit, the wide-track axles are needed simply due to modern wheels' deeper offset and keep the front-end geometry the same, NOT to widen the Classic's narrow front end, correct?



Just checkin'. Thanks.

Yes.

Thanks! Glad I wasn't holding my breath for a reply.

Another way of mounting B4 front wheels to your RC10...WITHOUT GT axles...

Photos courtesy of Michael of Revolution Designs:


B4 rear "crush" spacer, original jelly bean wheel bearing and original B4 bearing.


They will look like this (but install in the wheels first!!)


Result:


I will be testing this next time at the track.

JK Racing wrote:Another way of mounting B4 front wheels to your RC10...WITHOUT GT axles...

Photos courtesy of Michael of Revolution Designs:


B4 rear "crush" spacer, original jelly bean wheel bearing and original B4 bearing.


They will look like this (but install in the wheels first!!)


Result:


I will be testing this next time at the track.

Why is the flanged bearing needed and how does it fit?

The smaller, flanged bearing actually sits deeper inside the stock wheel space and allows for the wheel nut to be used, the negative offset is overcome by the crush tube in the back of both bearings, to give the wheel the proper offset needed for good/stable track width.

My comparisons of the above:

B4 wheel, using the different bearings:




Duratrax wheel, using standard bearings:




I did notice that Proline B4 wheels are nice and snug with the flanged bearing, stock B4 wheels, not so much, the inner area where the bearing would sit is a touch larger, not that snug of a fit for the bearing.