RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Before pivot balls, o-rings would be common to allow roll, fuel tubing was also used. The two screws up front would be for setting tweak and were commonly long grub screws.

Thanks Jeff
I had a suspicion but never have had a pan car quite like this one.
I've got some orings, so orings it will be.

I was pleasantly surprised that the G10 was close in color.
It is a little lighter but it is 0.90" vs .125" for the chassis so that makes sense.

Chuck

yes the material will vary a lot from batch to batch and then add in the thicknesses...its great you found some close! On T plates I usually go for .064 or .080. One thing you could also do is instead of orings at the back you could drill out the hole and use a grommet. A few mfr did that. With a brass tube style bushing (like tamiya shocks used to use) you could really tighten that post down and not interfere with the movement.

Few more items knocked the list

First I found the centerline before drilling any holes that would align the rear pod.

T-plate, still needs "tweek screws" and maybe a little more trimming.
For now, just because I have them, O-rings under the T-plate.


Rear tires turned and trued
New diff rings and diff balls
Bearings fully cleaned and oiled

Still needs

Thrust bearing. It's OK but not buttery smooth
The brace on the top of the motor pod could be replaced
A new body. Probably like the F40 that it originally had on it.


Chuck

Incremental but better

Lightly sanded and polished the chassis, got rid of 80% of the scratches
Cleaned and blackened all the steel screws
Cleaned and put the original white plastic nuts on that hold the wings
New G10 plate/ballstud mount on motor pod
Cleaned and resoldered the upper T-plate to motor pod thingy


Chuck