RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Dadio wrote: ↑Fri Aug 11, 2023 4:13 pm

silvertriple wrote: ↑Fri Aug 11, 2023 2:36 pm Nice prints

Thanks , been working on the diff , looks possible .

Well, the Big Bear ran with bevel gears printed in plain nylon in my Bambu Lab X1C for quite a while without a single issue... So yes, it should be possible (and I did not used a 0.2 mm nozzle for that).

silvertriple wrote: ↑Fri Aug 11, 2023 4:27 pm

Dadio wrote: ↑Fri Aug 11, 2023 4:13 pm

silvertriple wrote: ↑Fri Aug 11, 2023 2:36 pm Nice prints

Thanks , been working on the diff , looks possible .

Well, the Big Bear ran with bevel gears printed in plain nylon in my Bambu Lab X1C for quite a while without a single issue... So yes, it should be possible (and I did not used a 0.2 mm nozzle for that).

I'm planning on using the metal diff gears and outdrivres from the Hot Shot and just printing the toothed pulley and bearing adapters .

Hot Shot diff gears in a mini Mustang compatible diff , will need axles to match the more common dog bone size of the Hot Shot , uses 5x10 bearings and an adapter to fit the 13mm hole for the stock Mini Mustang bearing .

Just received an engineering plate and some PA6 CF from Bambu Lab yesterday , dried the filament for 20 hours and my first print has started

PA6 CF prints so well , printed some Mini Mustang arms and once I pressed in the ball studs they are free and smooth , often when you print a ball joint you have to hone them a bit , very impressed with the dimensional accuracy . These arms and hubs are modified to use HotShot dog bones and axles to make a set to complement the Hotshot diff components .

Interesting... I have some PA12 HT CF and PETG CF at home but did not tried to print yet with them... Time will come, as I have something in mind, but right now I'm focused on something else... I also heard about PC being very interesting for RC, and I must recognize I'm tempted to try... And the PA6 CF as well...

Did you print with the 0.4 mm nozzle?

We use PA6 carbon for our no prep drag racing body mount/caster blocks and they hold up great at 100mph but the print is not the prettiest.

silvertriple wrote: ↑Sat Sep 02, 2023 10:59 am Interesting... I have some PA12 HT CF and PETG CF at home but did not tried to print yet with them... Time will come, as I have something in mind, but right now I'm focused on something else... I also heard about PC being very interesting for RC, and I must recognize I'm tempted to try... And the PA6 CF as well...

Did you print with the 0.4 mm nozzle?

Yes it's a 0.4 mm nozzle , one important thing is to dry the filament first even new out the sealed package , I dried this roll for 20+ hours before printing and the result is that xcellent
.

GoMachV wrote: ↑Sat Sep 02, 2023 11:13 am We use PA6 carbon for our no prep drag racing body mount/caster blocks and they hold up great at 100mph but the print is not the prettiest.

That finish is very like the Esun CF Nylon I was originally using , it was strong but more flexible and never had a glossy finish , the BambuLab PA6 CF has that nice satin shine and it has that crisp clatter when you drop it , expensive though £37 for half a kilo !

Dadio wrote: ↑Sat Sep 02, 2023 1:55 pm

silvertriple wrote: ↑Sat Sep 02, 2023 10:59 am Interesting... I have some PA12 HT CF and PETG CF at home but did not tried to print yet with them... Time will come, as I have something in mind, but right now I'm focused on something else... I also heard about PC being very interesting for RC, and I must recognize I'm tempted to try... And the PA6 CF as well...

Did you print with the 0.4 mm nozzle?

Yes it's a 0.4 mm nozzle , one important thing is to dry the filament first even new out the sealed package , I dried this roll for 20+ hours before printing and the result is that xcellent
.

GoMachV wrote: ↑Sat Sep 02, 2023 11:13 am We use PA6 carbon for our no prep drag racing body mount/caster blocks and they hold up great at 100mph but the print is not the prettiest.

That finish is very like the Esun CF Nylon I was originally using , it was strong but more flexible and never had a glossy finish , the BambuLab PA6 CF has that nice satin shine and it has that crisp clatter when you drop it , expensive though £37 for half a kilo !

I was aware for the drying, with Nylon, it should be almost the standard procedure...

silvertriple wrote: ↑Sat Sep 02, 2023 2:16 pm

Dadio wrote: ↑Sat Sep 02, 2023 1:55 pm

silvertriple wrote: ↑Sat Sep 02, 2023 10:59 am Interesting... I have some PA12 HT CF and PETG CF at home but did not tried to print yet with them... Time will come, as I have something in mind, but right now I'm focused on something else... I also heard about PC being very interesting for RC, and I must recognize I'm tempted to try... And the PA6 CF as well...

Did you print with the 0.4 mm nozzle?

Yes it's a 0.4 mm nozzle , one important thing is to dry the filament first even new out the sealed package , I dried this roll for 20+ hours before printing and the result is that xcellent
.

GoMachV wrote: ↑Sat Sep 02, 2023 11:13 am We use PA6 carbon for our no prep drag racing body mount/caster blocks and they hold up great at 100mph but the print is not the prettiest.

That finish is very like the Esun CF Nylon I was originally using , it was strong but more flexible and never had a glossy finish , the BambuLab PA6 CF has that nice satin shine and it has that crisp clatter when you drop it , expensive though £37 for half a kilo !

I was aware for the drying, with Nylon, it should be almost the standard procedure...

It should be dry out of the packet , bit rubbish that it's not really.

Well, you never know, so by default, it is to be dried...
And even if you store it properly, you will have to dry it again before reprinting...

That said, AMS + silica gel beads in containers allows to space between drying as it keeps the environment controled (my wife use to dry the clothes in my printer room, and AMS silica gel beads needs to be dried every 4 months...)...

All my nylons and PC are in sealed dry boxes with silica packs in and with bowdan tubes to the printer , as you say you get a few months before drying again , I don't really bother with PLA other than having it in large tubs with silica packs but not that well sealed .
The Mini Mustang is coming along .

Drew up the steering components and chassis plate for the Mini Mustang , I combined the chassis plate with the under tray that's usually a lexan part, printed in PA6 CF Nylon for the steering and the plate in PETG CF. The chassis plate once fitted makes the whole thing very rigid. After printing I added cutouts in the under guard sides for battery and steering rod as I'd missed them on this version , easy enough to cut out as you would in the lexan version.

This Mini Mustang is just about done , modified to use Hotshot diff bevel gears , dogbones and axles .
Servo and motor are fitted just need to fit an RX and ESC and it's test drive time, I'm not sure if the suspension arms will hold up in home printed PA6 CF Nylon, where the inner arms meet the suspension pins they are quite skinny , the original material is very tough and flexible , nearest material I could print them in would be Polypropylene and I've never used it , by all accounts Polypropylene only really likes to stick to Polypropylene ....

Took the printed Mini Mustang for a drive today , disappointingly the Hotshot diffs don't like being under tension from the belt , with enough belt tension not to slip it virtually locks the diffs I'm thinking of ways to solve this , its down to the different out drive designs , the genuine diffs have a sleeved screw holding the outdrivres together but the Hotshot only has a loose pin to keep it centred , I'm sure I can solve it for myself but it's a bust for making an easy conversion part for other people .