RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

There are no stupid questions! Well, except those asked after doing it the wrong way I suppose.

GoMachV wrote:I have dyed the A&L pieces before. The problem is that the dye has changed. The current Rit dye that looks from the outside like the dye we always used isn't the same anymore. Look for their "dye more" version. This was found by another person at Walmart. I have yet to try it, but I was less than pleased with my last experience with the regular dye

Can't tell from the pic - but stopped by the hobby lobby and they don't stock the plus dye in black. I think it was graphite. Local Michaels doesn't carry the plus... I check online later.

Just did a batch last night. Graphite is what you want for black. They just needed a fancy name for it lol

Even my towers took, and I've never been able to get my material to take dye

Awesome build so far firebird1999us!

Can't wait to see the finished product! It's almost making me want to revisit mine.

So I see "RC10GT" written on that A&L bell crank package... is it possible to use it on the GT as well as the RC10T (which I assume is what you're using it for)?

Thanks! ~ Jason

GT/T2 stock bellcranks are shorter. A&L only ever sold the shorter GT/T2 style cranks, and they work great you just have to use the forward set of mounting holes in the noseplate.

Talked to Lunsford via phone and they were able to put together a hinge pin set for me! Hopefully I can get it shipped sometime this week!

So for basic assembly I need to find a NOS or near mint black nose. There's one on eBay that appears to be "raw" or unfinished? Is there a special significance to the "raw" nose plates? Were they ordered that way by a larger hobby shop or something?

Also the blue gpm nose... although I'd like to stay all black...

Is it the same nose for the RC10GT?

Jason

Does anyone have any background info on these dogbones?





Seller says they're about 3.5"... which is about what a 10t dogbones should be I think? It doesn't specifically say rc10t but I think it's meaning rc10t.

Interesting! The first prototype RC10 truck was called the RC10ST. These are for the production RC10T. They must have been made very early, before AE gave out a production name of RC10T.

slotcarrod wrote:Interesting! The first prototype RC10 truck was called the RC10ST. These are for the production RC10T. They must have been made very early, before AE gave out a production name of RC10T.

Seller had 2 sets so I snagged them both... she also had a set from PSE that she said were the same exact length but much thinner. I've also got about 3 sets of CVDs I was able to grab a while back. I wanted a few different options and got everything cheap enough for now. I figured if I passed it would all be going for $6,000,000 next year! Ha

Just got these in today:

Sweet!

So lets talk about axles and bearings!

I'm running stock front steering blocks from associated - 6221 I think. My runner just has whatever comes stock but I was wondering if the worlds car axles would work? What size bearings go with those?

For the rear I've amassed kind of a stockpile of MIP 1/4" and 3/16" and associated CVDs but I think I may use those on my runner. I was tooling around the rc carbon works site the other day, saw these, and was curious how you mount wheels to these:

http://rccarbonworks.com/store/team-associated/RC10-Gold-Pan/cw-065-rc-10-extended-axle-kit

I just grabbed a hex kit planning on running CVDs... how, if at all for a truck, do hubs like that work?