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silvertriple wrote: ↑Thu Jan 04, 2024 12:54 pm

Dadio wrote: ↑Thu Jan 04, 2024 10:02 am There is a quick down and dirty solution though , most regular sticky tape is PP so you just tape up the bed and print on the tape , now I tried this but I used a smooth PEI bed plate that may have been the problem as the filament stuck very well to the tape but the tape peeled off the bed leaving a very warped part .
At this point I could have stripped the PEI coating off the bed so the tape was sticking to the spring steel plate directly but I only had two plates for my P1P and didn't want to ruin one so I ordered a cheap plate with fancy patterns on each side thinking I could strip the coating off the cheap plate , after ordering the new plate I found that Magigoo made a special glue just for PP so I ordered some of that too .

I take note of this. Engineering plate is perfectly flat and should be the first choice for this...

It was the engineering plate I used , maybe a different brand of tape might work better maybe with a different adhesive ? a bit of trial and error might find the best tape , my feeling is that lowering the bed temp may help with tape as the adhesive may soften at higher temps ? , I was running 80°C ( recommended temp on filament spool was 60-80°C ) , ultimately the print permanently bonded to the tape and has to be cut out so it's far from ideal ! The Magigoo glue stick works , I just reprinted the arm with a 10mm brim and it's perfect , you can even still see the fake carbon fibre weave pattern from the cheap build plate is unaffected by the glue stick , the Magigoo glue aplicator is very (suspiciously) similar to the glue you get with the P1P .
Ultimately if your making structural parts the thickness is going to promote warping and I think the Magigoo is a better option .

I really like Magigoo for nylon printing on my glass plate. There are different versions depending on filament type. Prior to that I used a GeckoTek surface.

Frankentruck wrote: ↑Thu Jan 04, 2024 1:48 pm I really like Magigoo for nylon printing on my glass plate. There are different versions depending on filament type. Prior to that I used a GeckoTek surface.

For nylon I just use Elmer's Washable purple school glue stick , cheap as chips and works really well , I'm pretty impressed by the Magigoo PP though , looking at the application bottles I'm sure they supply Bambu Labs under licence .

I'm so impressed with this PP filament , I've been doing some destructive testing on a couple of parts , firstly the first warped print I've been repeatedly bending it double then the other way , I've managed to mangle it but I can't break it then i though what about the suspension pin holes , this is the hardest thing to make strong with 3d printing , i put a pin in one hole and started pulling , it just stretched I had to twist it 180° before it stretched enough to snap and even then it wasn't at the layer lines , it just stretched thin enough to break , at the point of the pin holes the surface area of the layers is so small that it always breaks with other filaments , this stuff is mad .
I printed a Yokomo 834b front arm and it feels just like a real one in terms of flex and feel .
This is probably the most impressive filament I've used , I want to try a roll cage next as i think its the perfect material , also need to see what happens with supports , I'm thinking supports might be a nightmare to remove with layer bonding this strong .

I don't know if you already tried PC Blend, but as per some Andrew Cooke and James Knight comments I saw, this is also great material for technical parts...
I intend to try soon...

silvertriple wrote: ↑Fri Jan 05, 2024 5:30 pm I don't know if you already tried PC Blend, but as per some Andrew Cooke and James Knight comments I saw, this is also great material for technical parts...
I intend to try soon...

Might be a little stiffer but no I've not tried it yet .

Just printed this Mini Mustang bumper mount in PP , entirely printed on support material , I thought it would be a thorough test of how hard it would be to remove the support material , I was pleasantly surprised , while it's not the easiest it was not as bad as I expected and the print surface after removal is acceptable .

Dudes a genius

Thanks Gavin. U da man!

Thanks guys , I'm going to put the filament for the proper parts in the dryer today as it needs 24 hours drying before use . I'll print one final tester of the diff today with the last tweaks just to verify then finish the design for the rest of them but that's a cake walk . I meant to ask if it was alright to post pictures as I didn't know if you wanted this kept secret .

coxbros1 wrote: ↑Thu Jan 25, 2024 8:10 am received_1315938979113103.jpeg

You guys wear the funkiest jewellery...

Incredible_Serious wrote: ↑Thu Jan 25, 2024 3:48 pm

coxbros1 wrote: ↑Thu Jan 25, 2024 8:10 am received_1315938979113103.jpeg

You guys wear the funkiest jewellery...

Ladder chain bling all the way baby

First CF Nylon parts rolling off the printer , diff is diffin, front spool is spoolin , having fun and games with the little sprockets that link up with the spur gear , proving challenging to get a clean print , if they were SLS printed at a pro shop they'd be good as gold but it's proving to be niggling to get clean home FDM prints .
These are the good bits . This mess is the little ones to go on the spur , three slightly different iterations, fourth is on its way now , fingers crossed

Getting somewhere , a little nudge down in temp and it should be good .