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Just read the whole thread- Nicely done! The powdercoated chassis actually looks really well!

@ Romolus: thank you for the information at the moment I don't need any part to finish this T2 but an molded drag link. Later I will start a second T2 project and probably need some parts...then I will pm you

@ MayorRC: thank you

So today I've been assembling the T2 and here is the result (battery strap missing on the pictures) just need a molded drag link. My T2 has as turnbuckle as drag link, looks cool but I prefer the easier solution, so I will use the molded one. Tomorrow...oh, ehm...today I will disassemble the shocks (again) and will replace the shock shaft.

Then I can finally say that the chassis is 90% complete the body will be sent to a professional airbrusher tomorrow.... Provisionally I will use "the edge" tires on the front and "hole shots" on the rear.

However, I have a little problem: the left brace tube is touching the servo saver adjusting screw...does anyone know a solution? What have i done wrong? ...While you're looking for a solution, I'll go to sleep now, good night

So today I disassemble the shocks and replace the 4 shock shafts because the old ones were in very bad conditions/scratched.

I don't knew which motor I should use but I took a look at my small collection and found this one (picture 3). It has no decal/description, so I don't know which motor it is But it looks good and is in a very good shape I'm not sure, but I think it should be a recent 17t Thunder Tiger motor.

post up a picture of the servo saver nut and the nose tube contact.

Here are two pictures of the servo saver nut...

I can't tighten the servo saver screw as it should be because the thread of servo saver tube is destroyed. I think that could be the reason why nut has contact with the nose tube...

Another reason could be that the servo saver mounting screw is slightly bent.

it kind of looks like the nose tube is slightly bent. have you tried flipping the nose tube to the other side? also check to see if your tub isn't bent in slightly. if all checks out i would break out a dremel and sanding drum. sand the area on the nose tube to clear the nut. i had to this to one of my trucks once.

also check to see if the servo saver screw, the one that bolts to the chassis, isn't bent too.

When you see it live it does not look as if the nose tubes were bent. But I will try to flipping the nose tubes to the other side, I have not tried it yet.

Another question: I wonder if I should I use shims under the servo saver parts? Because the ball ends are touching/scratching the nose tube

you mean scratching the nose plate? i use a single aluminum washer. that gives me enough clearance. no matter what the servo saver is going to flex under hard cornering. just make sure you have the shorty ball ends and not the longer ones.

Yes, the nose plate sorry and yes I used the short ball ends

Okay, will use a aluminium washer, should be enough.

Hey guys,

The body is almost finished I'm just waiting for the decals

So here's the Mark Pavidis' replica (yes, it's not 100% perfect but I'm very happy with the result ) I think it will look even better with the right decals

He was one of my favorite drivers growing up. I really like his paint and always wanted to replicate it but have yet to get around to it. Well done on the paint. Looks really good right now. Look forward to seeing it decalled up.

Hey Romulus, thank you

I'm also looking forward to see the final result the decals and some specials parts to finalize the Pavidis replica are on their way to me, I hope they will arrive in the following days.

I probably will replace the shock shafts again, by goldie ones I also have to modify the rear bulkhead...further details will follow

looking good daniel. no plans on anodizing the chassis parts?

Thank you Rob

Not for the moment, maybe in future.

As soon as the modifications are done, the "special" parts and electronics are installed and the body 100% finished I want to start additionally the other projects like the B3, my XX-4 or the Mid Custom Special.

I already have a second chassis kit lying here. Just have to look after someone who could anodize the parts. If I want a real replica I should also modify the nose plate and battery strap, right?

For those who are interested and never seen it: this was Pavidis chassis



As you can see the chassis was blue anodized. Notice the modified nose plate and the battery strap. Also the rear bulkhead was modified. The rear shocks were fixed on the rear of the shock tower, and the tower itself was installed on the front of the bulkhead instead of being on the back of it. Some "special" parts were installed like gold shock shafts, RCPS turnbuckles and different body mounts on the rear.