RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

i started working on my next what's old is new car, this time using a tub chassis. this will be built for the v-nats, whatever year it is that i get there again. being as though i've never been a 10t fan, i decided to sacrifice the only 10t i have for this build. one nice thing about doing so if that the truck had real nice white parts on it. although they are a little on the yellow side. man..... i wish there was a way to make yellowed parts white again.

so, i got the nose plate cut down, as well as the tub sides. i also decided to use a b3 motor plate on a 2.25 stealth like i have on one of my other builds. i went at this one a little different. this time, instead of lining up atleast one of the mounting holes, and oblonging the hole for the topshaft, i decided to center it at the topshaft, and drill the necessary holes. i ran into a snag with the lower hole though. it's off about half a hole, so i'm gonna have to get that one welded up so i can drill and tap a new one in the right spot.

the rear kickup needed to be cut down about a 1/4", and also needed to be bent forward towards the motor plate. thank god for the sheetmetal break in my basement. then i drilled 2 new holes in the tub to mount it to the motor plate. unfortunately, i broke the GOOD drill bit i use to tap 4-40, and when i went to drill and tap the new holes in the motor plate, the cheap POS one i have decided to walk on me and i didn't pick up on it right away. so, i need to have hole welded up now so i can fix it.

Car looks good. I like the modification you did to the rear.

Sorry to hear about the drill bit problems. Nothing like using a dull bit and then finding out it decided to go in crooked or in your case the completely wrong spot.

I will be watching the build.

Jake

Very cool man. At first i was wandering if you painted the blue car you had.
looking good.

m_vice wrote:At first i was wandering if you painted the blue car you had.

oh no, that one's still in the basement. good thing too, since i needed to look at it to remember how i did that one.

I want to do a similar thing and your cars look awsome.Is the silver one painted or is that raw alloy and is the blue one paint or anodised?

that one is bare aluminum. i got done with the alterations (for the most part) last night, and glass beaded the parts today. my plan is to have it anodized. i painted the blue one, but the motor plate had the factory team blue anodizing so i left that alone.

what are the slots for in the chassis?

wyldbill wrote:what are the slots for in the chassis?

this was a 7011 10t kit with the msc. aparently, the previous owner didn't like where associated said to mount it, so he decided to slide it to the left.

mabey he thought it was an oval thing that most people wouldnt understand ?

i'm just glad he did a pretty nice job. but it does suck because other than those slots, the tub was in beautiful condition (for being used) when i got it...

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=296

scr8p wrote:that one is bare aluminum. i got done with the alterations (for the most part) last night, and glass beaded the parts today. my plan is to have it anodized. i painted the blue one, but the motor plate had the factory team blue anodizing so i left that alone.

scr8p,
If you know anyone with a tumbler or a vibratory polisher it leaves a really nice finish on the chassis prior to anno.

thanks for the tip, but i don't think i know anyone that has one.

being as though this car will eventually be used, i'm not too worried about how nice the anodizing comes out. since all of the pieces are glass beaded, the finish should atleast be consistent.

Did you strip the anodizing prior to bead blasting. The chassis I have bead blasted doesn't look as consistent as maybe some of the anodizing didn't come off. The glass bead I'm using is the finest grit there is so don't know if it's the grit or the fact that I didn't strip the chassis before blasting. What's your opinion scr8p.

Nice. I like the way it looks as-is, but it would be interesting to see what it would look like anodized without any polishing first.

a01butal wrote:Did you strip the anodizing prior to bead blasting. The chassis I have bead blasted doesn't look as consistent as maybe some of the anodizing didn't come off. The glass bead I'm using is the finest grit there is so don't know if it's the grit or the fact that I didn't strip the chassis before blasting. What's your opinion scr8p.

if i know i'm gonna be glass beading a part, i don't bother stripping the anodizing off first. let's say i have a nose plate or chassis tub with some scratches, i'll just go at it with a da to feather them out, and then i'll glass bead it. it helps remove the sanding scratches.

i think the glass bead we use is around 80 grit, but we use the glass bead cabinet a LOT doing the restorations. so, it doesn't stay 80 grit for long.