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I drew this thing up today. I am going to print them to check fits then hopefully it will be in alloy. Other parts for it I'm drawing as well but those are a little harder to get dimensions for. Based the dimensions on Chris's aluminum case. I'm looking for more detailed pics of the mounting of the case. Can any body point me to some. Also any advice on the internals would be great. I assumed it uses the same diff as in the 2.25 stealth and the same gear as well. Well I have a bunch more questions but those are for latter.

here you go.

sweet!!!! r u going to be making all the 4-10 parts to build a car?

The front "diff" was just dual one way bearings. No actual diff.
Id build it around components that are (going to be) readily available. A stealth diff would make life easier

That's what I'm loosely planing on. Because a case is nice but with out the other parts it becomes a lot less useful.

I was just re reading this http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=33123 which helped clear some things up. I was thinking the same thing after reading that it makes more sense to have a regular diff in there.

Thanks for the pic it helps

I don't know how willing he is to make more, but jake made me some pulleys that are bad ass! Look a lot like a mipit too

What was the transmission ratio for the front gearbox? Looking at that pic of the MIP 4-10 internals I counted 33t on the one-way gear and what looks to be around 20t on the top shaft gear...though it's hard to get a good count on the top shaft from the pic. That would put the internal ratio at 1.65:1.

It also looks to be 18t on the MIPIT pulley so there's got to be some amount of overdrive/underdrive on the setup correct?

gomachv wrote:I don't know how willing he is to make more, but jake made me some pulleys that are bad ass! Look a lot like a mipit too

Wow, great repro MIPPET Jake!

Jeff...time to update that thread!

I have to sit and scratch my head a bit on ratios when it is driven off the idler. Usually you throw out the idler in ratios cause it's just an idler. Now it matters. I think you would take the idler and diff gear count on the stealth and just make sure that ratio is the same as the front, making up for differences in the mipits (I always assumed they were the same tooth but likely not). I bet they had a little overdrive to em

Ahh forgot about the ratio of the idler and top shaft from the rear transmission.

28t idlers in the stealth right?

28t/20t = 1.4:1 for rear the top shaft/idler
33t/20t = 1.65:1 for the front trans

1.65 x 1.4 = 2.31:1 with the front and rear MIPITs being the same.

Then again I'm probably not getting the right tooth count on the top shaft gear in the front gear box. If it's 21t it would put the gear ratio at 2.2:1.

Charlie don't surf wrote: Jeff...time to update that thread!

heres your update 2 ordered to test with
I tried SDP but shipping is stupid

For the printed ones as soon as the fits are checked out I'll make them available to print at Shape Wayes. I would be down for some pulleys when things are further along. As far as the ratios are concerned If I you have a stealth diff front and rear and a stealth idler front and rear and the same Mipet pulleys front and rear both mounted on the idlers should be fine. Some modifications

if your going to use a stealth diff, that is correct. I am pretty sure as phin was saying that the mip front gearbox uses smaller gears for space reasons

don't worry about the ratios. make the housing fit a stealth diff gear and idler gear, and make a custom top shaft for the idler gear. Then the 'mipet' and final drives are all 1:1.

when you are ready to make those front gearboxes, I want one . that part is really the only 'hard' part to make a MIP like 4wd system today.

So is that why they did that? Space saving? Is it really that tight there? I was wondering why they would make it that much harder on themselves.