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Guys,

Need some guidance. I have my vintage RC10 complete with MIP SP1 transmission along with the MIP CVDs. However, on the spur side I keep having the dog bone popping out. I have had to restrict the shock travel length in the rear to prevent this which is not the most elegant solution (I basically put a long screw through the bulkhead hole to stop travel).

I am looking for suggestions with out having to use the screw. I have also tried to shim, but I have little to no play on that side and it still has issue when I am running.

For additional information, I am running a brushless system (Tekin RS with 17.5T motor).

New to forum...looking for help. I will try to post some pics....

Welcome to the site.

Do you have any down travel limiters on the shafts inside the shock bodies? If you are using the stock 1.32" shock bodies and shafts then you should and maybe you don't have enough in the shock on the side where the dogbone is popping out.

That's the weird thing...I am using the red limiters on the shocks as well

when the SP1 was made, the gold pan still had 1.32" shocks that needed 5/8" rubber fuel tubing on the INSIDE of the shock, with the 1.32" shock shafts. I would suggest starting at that point, and checking travel and bone alignment. it may be that is all you need. I never had the SP1 new, or it's instructions, to see if MIP recommended any particular down stop settings different from stock.

CVD's were not around at that time, it may be that the SP1 outdrives are a bit short compared to stealth and 6 gear, the MIP CVD's may be slightly short. another thing you can do after limiting the shock travel is to put all the shims on the inside of the hub, if you haven't already done so.

That's interesting...I can see why you are tagged life saver....I never knew or heard about the tubing thing...how does that work?

Also - I am using MIP vintage rc10 shocks as well...same size as stock rc10

slide the tubing over the shock shaft to limit the down travel

Wow...ok....I never did that before....thanks for tips...on a separate comment, but shock related, did anyone make black metal shock caps in black?

Hah, the lifesaver thing is related to some donations I made, but thanks.

Yes tubing like rcresto showed. The rc10 manual shows a picture or describes the step.

As for black metal caps for rc10 shocks, yes. Associated supplied them with early team shocks before moving to black plastic. MIP also made shock bodies but not sure if that included caps also.

Thanks for all the help!

Keep in mind the early Mip SP-4 outdrives for the SP-3 diff were short, and the later version SP-4 for the Pro & Plus diffs were a tad longer. The late version still fits the SP-3.

jcwrks wrote: ↑Wed Feb 15, 2023 1:39 pm Keep in mind the early Mip SP-4 outdrives for the SP-3 diff were short, and the later version SP-4 for the Pro & Plus diffs were a tad longer. The late version still fits the SP-3.

I think your about 8 years to late!

mikea96 wrote: ↑Wed Feb 15, 2023 1:54 pm

jcwrks wrote: ↑Wed Feb 15, 2023 1:39 pm Keep in mind the early Mip SP-4 outdrives for the SP-3 diff were short, and the later version SP-4 for the Pro & Plus diffs were a tad longer. The late version still fits the SP-3.

I think your about 8 years to late!

I figured not everyone knew about two versions of the SP-4. It's also worth noting the Mip shock bodies do not include caps, but they do include shock cap o-rings.