RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Please forgive my ignorance, I am a Losi guy.
I have some people asking for a modern battery cup option like I made for the JRX graphite chassis models. One that holds extra wires.
So I got a RC10 Gold Pan. It is an A stamp. I also got a RC10T with a B stamp.

My question is, why are the holes for the battery holder offset up front on the A stamp? I did some searching and see that that appears to be common.

Was that ever changed in the Gold Pans? If so, what stamp marking?

So then I also have that Black RC10T B stamp chassis which appears to have also been used with the DS and Team Car. Looks like the screw holes are straight forward from the bulkhead. From my searching it appears only very rare A stamps might have still had the offset and farther back holes.

So my last question is, do I need just 2 versions of the holder as far as length goes? One for the offset farther back holes and one for the later straight more forward holes?

I don't want to give people the wrong part for their chassis. I have two designs done but want to make sure I have things squared away before offering them up.

Thanks

Dan

They offset the holes for speed control clearance on the side. Originally the battery was to run down the middle with servos on either side.

A stamp is offset, and some B stamp were too. Later B stamp and all C stamp were centered. No stamp rere is centered and moved ahead for better lipo fit

As a general rule, A stamp would be any 6 gear car minus rere. B stamp was once the stealth became available and probably the most common, and C stamp is the version that came milled for worlds and unmilled for late team cars, DS, and 10T

the offset holes were updated with the B stamp or A/B stamp chassis, but the battery cup has never changed over that time frame, so I would not worry about that particular weirdness in the chassis. The original chassis didn't use those holes for battery cups, the battery ran side to side.

An updated battery cup will work for both, or in many cases, the straight holes got drilled in many chassis' by the users so would be there. Even further, many guys are using double sided tape to fit the cups to shift the shorty lipos forward, not relying on any holes, or drilling their own.

what is the 'extra wires' part you mention? clearance for end exit of pack wires?

Correct, when in said originally I meant pre production, but that is how the holes got there

gomachv wrote:They offset the holes for speed control clearance on the side. Originally the battery was to run down the middle with servos on either side.

Oh that makes sense now. I actually started with the RC10T chassis and then went to the RC10 Gold Pan and thought I was losing my mind. Thought the chassis holes for the bulkhead had been put in crooked. Couldn't understand why things didn't line up straight.

jwscab wrote:what is the 'extra wires' part you mention? clearance for end exit of pack wires?

Ha, nope, but that was addressed as well in these. They wanted the wire routing clip design.
As seen here in the losi version.

that's pretty nifty.

I wasn't going to go into much detail, but after someones great guess on a possible feature I thought I would go into more detail. I have more testing and tweaking to do. Feedback is welcome since I am out of my element on Associated models.

These have been made mainly to address a couple requests to fit the smaller LIPO packs around 45mm in width and height that fits original bulkhead. Also the other request was for one to work with NIMH stick packs which are longer than old NICAD packs. I also have a Losi one that was done custom a while back for the new NIMH stick packs. That will also be coming out soon.

The packs for reference that I know will fit.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/cars-and-trucks/batteries-15134--1/speedpack-1800mah-nimh-6-cell-flat-dyn1050
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTCE1&P=ML

Here are some early pictures. First 2 pictures are of the holder on offset chassis. Second 2 pictures are holder on black B stamp chassis that has the holes farther forward.

looks great!

AWESOME. Helps to keep from cutting up originals.

(on your losi ones, will you make one that fits li-po?

I like that, keep us updated. I wouldnt mind dropping one into my NIX car

mytimac wrote:(on your losi ones, will you make one that fits li-po?

Working on it right now as well. My world right now is battery cups.

These are pretty much finished now. Right now just have final prints of the versions without the wire clip. Then get them up on the store.

I have now tested on 3 different chassis setups.
Gold Pan A stamp with offset holes.
The TQ chassis with centered holes.
The late model black chassis with centered farther forward holes.

These will allow up to 3 different battery types to be used depending on the setup you buy.
3 different models for each chassis. Universal, Basic, and Shorty Lipo Only. No more hacking your chassis or battery cups. None of them require and permanent changes to your chassis or other parts.

Won't do full write up here, put that in the Business section.
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=92&t=38736

Some quick pics.

They are up for sale now. The Basic model actually weighs a little less than the standard Associated cup with all its parts. Price starts at $7.59 for the Basic.
More info here http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=92&t=38736