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So I noticed if I try and adjust any of the turnbuckles on the rere worlds the ends pop right off. I took all of them off, ran them almost all the way into the ends, backed them out, lubed the threads with Krytech dry lube and out them back together. I kinda expected them to free up a little but nope. It kinda sucks as I'd like to adjust camber on the car and not have to remove the links, make an adjustment, measure then reinstall and take a reading. I have my original one if I want to go through that.

Any ideas on how to free them up enough so they turn without popping off the balls? I wouldn't be against getting the RPM ends but if I don't have to spend money, the better. I was thinking of using some finishline PTFE I have but not sure if more lube will help. Pretty sure I don't have a tap that small.

Any ideas welcome.

The kit ball cups are trash.

And there you have it.

I'll stop by the LHS tomorrow. They get worried if they don't see me at least once a week.

I know a lot of the more modern manuals recommended using the black grease on your turnbuckles, I found that using Chapstick works great.

Just coat your turnbuckle and it will thread a lot easier, run it in and out a few times and you will have no issues using a turnbuckle wrench at the track without the ball cups popping off. The Chapstick also doesn't attract no where near the dirt that using the black grease does.

->Mark

The ball end on the new white cups seem to be slightly oversized. So not only does it make it a pain for camber and toe ajustments, it makes them much easier to pop off during a race. Toss them aside and get something else.

I remember seeing a trick in RCCA about using a ball stud in a drill to free up new turnbuckles. That's not needed in this case. They come off a LOT easier than I remember. Used to have to fight with the ends to pop them off.

I'll see if the local has any 4-40 short RPM ends in stock.

Been a bit busy with the 1:1 racecar so haven't had the chance to play with the RC. I bought some RPM heavy duty ends, it was all the LHS had. installed them on the top links. They still popped off.

Seemed that the shoulder of the turnbuckle was going into the end and causing it to become very tight. I used a drill bit to make the hole a bit larger but only about .125 in so I still had plenty of thread. I lubed the threads with PTFE mainly because I was tired of taking the damn things off and as of now, it's working.

I'm debating doing the other links as the RPM ends seem a bit bigger and may interfere. Maybe if I get bored...

I put all RPM ball cups on my WC re-re and nothing interferes with anything, the only tight fit was getting the gear cover on, but once it popped into place the ball cups don't hit it. I also didn't use any kind of black grease or chapstick on them, I ran them all the way onto the turnbuckles, then backed them off almost all the way, then put them at the length needed. I can adjust all mine without popping of the ball.

I saw that in your build thread and am thinking of doing the rest of them tonight.

I ran them all the way in and out before I put PTFE on it and I still had to drill out the end to clearance the shoulder. I also found out the turnbuckles aren't 4-40 as I bought a tap to see if that would help. I saw the threads are different so the tap went back into the toolbox.

Yeah, it's tight against the gear cover but as you said, it doesn't interfere.