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All,

I starting a 'black'n'Gold' build based on a carbon chassis, vintage stealth RC10 and Dhawk gold aluminium kit.

My plan is to keep everything black and gold as much as practically possible.
I have the following parts waiting to be fitted:
- Dhawk Gold aluminium stealth transmission case
- Team durango gold turnbuckles
- RPM ball cups
- Gold pillow balls
- Various Gold/Black screws, nuts and washers.
- Gold AE shocks

I have a few questions if anyone would care to assist;
- What front axles are compatible with the Dhawk front uprights?
- What CVD's are compatible with this setup? I see lots of different sizes etc available (and Does anyone know of any gold CVD's being available?)
- Can I install a V2 or VTS slipper directly to a standard vintage stealth transmission topshaft / what parts do i need?
- Is there a brace available for the steering bellcrank pivot posts?
- Is there a brace available for the front suspension mounts, and if so what longer pins do i need?




thanks in advance for your interest and help,

Z

No braces available for the rack or front arms, you would have to make your own. Slipper upgrade will require b4 topshaft.

CVDs can be associated or MIP. None gold that I know of.

What shape hole do the spindle hubs have? Hex or circle?

Fantastic, Thank you for your reply;

- I will get some CF braces made up.

- B4 topshaft and VTS slipper

- CVD: Would i be correct in saying that AS6002 worlds CVD's would be suitable? Will B4 CVD's fit??
I have read: B2 CVD's MIP 1198 shiny CVD's should fit, along with B2 axles... using 3/16" 3/8" flanged bearings

- Spindle have a hex

Thanks for your help. Neil

worlds cvds, mip cvds for rc10/classic, or B2 with hub/bearing changes will all work. B4 will not.

if the spindles have a hex, you need the steel hex axles. If the spindle pin goes through the hex, you need the Associated 6218, if the pin in ahead of the axle hex, you need associated 6219.

Thanks

The front steering blocks I have are copies of associated 6216;

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Steering-Blocks-Team-Associated-RC10-6216-Dhawk-Racing-DR-920040-/201619206445?hash=item2ef170f12d

The spindle would appear to through the hex, therefore use Associated 6219. - https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-associated-rc10-front-stub-axle-2-asc6219/p264350

Will these be suitable for 2.2 wheels or should i be going for the other steering blocks copied from Associated 6225 which would allow me to use Associated 6220;

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Steering-Blocks-Team-Associated-RC10-6225-Dhawk-Racing-DR-920076G-/201085908765?hash=item2ed1a7771d


All very confusing now...

Bare in mind I want to use the new style 2.2 wheels ..

Thanks again,

z

if by new style you mean B4 type wheels, yes, that option you showed will work well with the longer front axles.

you could also track down B2/B3 front wheels that are 2.2" that will work with the narrower axles.

I suspect you will not be running this car, so finding a single pair of front wheels might be a more suitable option as it looks more 'right' compared to the B4 offset.

If you are planning on running a narrow front tire, you could use a B4 wheel and trim the inner lip off and run the narrower tire and it will adjust the offset that way also.

I know this doesn't really help but sometime way back when I picked up a pair of gold CV's. I guess the only plus to this post is there are some out there I just don't know where or who made them. I see that they look towards the silver side in the pic but that's due to the flash. They are a nice gold color in person.

Kyosho made the gold uni's for the rc10.

scr8p wrote:Kyosho made the gold uni's for the rc10.

How come you don't have them on all your builds then?

Hobbico made a set of gold universal drive shafts in gold. I bought two pair a long time ago, used one in a custom build and was planning on using this pair for a future build. part number is HCAC7010, you might be able to do a search.

How much heavier is the Dhawk aluminum-loaded chassis compared to a stock RC10?

blubblood wrote:How much heavier is the Dhawk aluminum-loaded chassis compared to a stock RC10?

Substantially heavier. Bolting all these aluminum parts to a graphite chassis is pure bling and I love it.

Thought so. I'll be using a few of those parts for strength.