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I have had this RC8 in the closet for a few years and thinking about pulling it out and converting to elec to drive around at the track. The conversion part is easy I guess with the kit AE makes. I don't know anything about lipo and brushless though. Do any of these cheaper brands talked about here make this stuff for 1/8th scale ? I was hoping some one could point me in the right direction and keep costs down by not getting the wrong stuff.

Few years ago I traded the Serpent in this old post for an RC8RS and some other things. http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=25651

Sensored ,sensorless, KV, batteries/chargers ??

http://www.hobbypartz.com/07e-c-combo-m1a.html

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__25143__Turnigy_TrackStar_Waterproof_1_8_Brushless_Power_System_2100KV_120A.html

Because of the weight I would go sensored. That hobbywing setup is similar to ones I have seen guys use but the esc you want is 120A not 80A. Check out the hobbywing page an see the system they recommend for a buggy in KV terms,but I wouldn't waste my money on a system with 80A esc... Batteries you wanna check the max size allowed for the AE kit and go for ones that suit that an your budget...Do a google search for lipo usage instructions an tips and follow them spot on an you should be good..

Thanks much !

I've been digging around and also stopped by the track yesterday. I kinda got that I need a 1900kv motor for what the guys there are running and he pulled out a 5000mah 4s battery.

This is the conversion installed and described.

https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/convert-your-ae-sc8-rc8-and-rc8t-to-brushless/

and Hobbywing has an XR8 combo with the 1900kv

http://www.hobbywingdirect.com/products/xr8-esc-combo

This stuff always adds up quick.

The kit:

Hobbywing XR8 plus is a great combo, anything from 1800kv to 2250kv is what is typically found in 1/8. That combo is their race gear and they do a cheaper sensorless combo if you don't want full race gear. http://www.hobbywingdirect.com/products/combo-ezrun-max-8-combo

4 cell is a must. A single 4 cell pack is best but if you use two 7.4's make sure they are matched, as in same brand and capacity.

I have a dynamite Fuze setup in one 8th scale, and Castle in the other. Those are both bargain brands, and you can't go wrong with Castle, they make a good 8th scale setup. Heck, I' using their Mamba Max Pro 1/10 scale combo on my 8th scale with a 3s battery and it wheelies on command. It's good for like up to 6s.

Does sensored and sensorless make a difference for racing ? Reading up says the sensorless runs cooler, has a sealed motor, but cogs at low rpm. Do any racing rules apply if you decide to, do you have to run sensored ?

See if I have this right in my head, kv is rpm ? A higher kv will be more top end speed, but more sensitive to acceleration ? Lower kv is more torque, less top speed and less sensitive acceleration ?

It does kinda cog at low just above idle, but who drives at idle anyways? Nobody. So power delivery is indeed smoother with the sensored setups, but as said, only just above idle.

Simply put, Higher KV is faster in a lighter car. Lower KV is for more torque in a heavier car. Of you can run way low KV's (2400) and way overgear it so it has both, that's what I did. Cleared jumps from a standing stop at the base (slash 4x4).

Thanks !

The guy at the track says they run 1900kv or 2000kv in the 1/8 buggies. He said he runs a 1600kv because he's not that great a driver. I'm gonna have to sell some of my older stuff to get started on this.

Looking at the conversion kit, esc/motor combo, batteries and charger.

The motor will depend on 2 things, the track, and the battery. I run 3s on a 25ookv motor, because I run on a clay indoor track. The track is of a pretty decent size too. But if you run on a really big track, and want more power from the batteries, then you'll need to upgrade the motor. I also have a 2400kv motor in my 1/8th Truggy, on 3s 50c, and it has so much power it's stupid.

I find a lot of times that what people say you *need*, is many times not the case. All too often people say you need to dive off the deep end and get the best equipment, when lesser stuff will be more than capable.

Just to add to the confusion the XR8 has dynamic timing. This means you can have the smoothness and drivability of a lower kv motor and still have the top speed of a higher kv motor.

Another cool fearure of the XR8 is that you can select the BEC output from either 6v or 7.4v depending on what servo you use.

The initial cost is somewhat overwhelming at times but once you are set up its cheap fun. I have run the snot outta an electric converted rc8 before sending it down the road just to pick up an ft rc8e then another rc8, rc8t, rc8t(electric conversion) . I say cheap fun because I ran 20 or so packs thru the current one and haven't broken a thing. These things are pure beef vs. the 1/10 scale and take a beating. Good luck with the conversion.

Todd

I mainly want to go at practice times, but if I decide to race......I'm not expecting to win anything, just fun.

This is the track right now.