RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Hi, here is my RC10. This car is really fun to drive.
Please let me know if you have any comments or questions.


<Front>
・Add weight 10g on the nose plate and 20g right by the steering servo
・Front bumper from Shapeway (rapid_rc)
・Extended front shock tower from Carbon works (3mm)
・0.89 V2 shocks with big bore spring
・#35 oil and blue spring, outside hole on the arm and inside on the tower
・Shock tower and suspension mounts are tightened with hex nuts
・RC10GT steering bellcrank (easy to break though)
・B4 20deg caster block (shims in bottom)
・Trailing steering block with T4 axle (make the wheelbase short)
・Low profile ballstud without shim on the steering block (bump in)

<Middle>
・Short lipo behind the steering servo
・ESC in front of the rear bulk head and add 5g weigh each side of ESC
・Add linkages from the rear bulk head to the chassis to reduce damages on the side holes, which connect the chassis and bulk head (B44 battery posts are used)

<Rear>
・Normal length shock tower with wing mount holes from Carbon works (3mm) and B5 wing mount
・V2 shocks from re-re RC10 worlds with big bore spring
・#30 oil and blue spring, outside hole on the arm and the second hole from the inside on the tower
・RC10T2 arm mounts (3 degree toe in) with long wheelbase holes
・Add a thick spacer between the shock rod end and rear arm
・B4 hub carriers, 0-degree toe in (I use the left hub for right, vice versa) with axle spacer crush tube
・Vintage stealth transmission case with B4 top shaft
・SC10 rear hex adapter to achieve the rear width close to 250mm with modern tires
・Yokomo B-MAX2 CVA shaft where holes are opened up to accommodate RC10 CVA coupler
・Add 2mm shim between the motor plate and chassis

<Other things>

・The front width is narrower than the rear
・B stamp chassis
・Lunsford turnbuckle
・I usually go to an indoor clay track

Hi R16, this is your first post so welcome to the forum.
That's an interesting car with an interesting mix of vintage and new parts. With the battery mounted so far forward, you must have a high front/rear weight bias. Have you ever weighed the car? Also, the linkages attached to the rear bulkhead are something I've never seen before. Would you mind explaining why you've added these?
Also, I haven't checked this and so it's probably been done before but, in case it hasn't, we should establish a thread for posting runner buggies; dirt, scrapes, scratches and all.

Cool car! Thanks for sharing all the setup details

-> Your car is no beater, it is very nice. But there was an old "Beater Thread", where some of posted our ugly runners:

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=29245

Hey, thanks for the link, dldiaz. I've checked it out and copied a couple of the member's images here.
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Two of the most prevalent images on the internet today. Thank you Photobucket.

looks like a well sorted car, NICE!
perhaps stupid Q. but why did you swap the rear hubs left to right?

Thank you very much for your comments.

Unfortunately, I only have one digital scale and have never measured the weight distribution.
I will update this information if I have a chance to measure it.
I came up with this setting after considering balances between yawing, pitching and rolling of RC10 (with the short wheelbase and rear motor position). Of course, I could be wrong but I really enjoy this whole process and driving this car.

The linkages are mainly for big jumps.
I found that the 4-40 x 5/8 screws' head, where screws hold the rear bulk head and chassis from both sides, shaved the chassis.
I added one shim below the screw head and installed linkages. The linkages stiffen the chassis and should disperse damages.

I swap rear hubs to make the upper camber link parallel to the rear arm (it looks better!).

You've certainly put a lot of thought into your car and I can appreciate that.
Do you recall the part number for those Yokomo CVA shafts and if they are longer than the replaced Associated RC10 shafts?
Also, is that first image (top view) distorted or are you in fact running the front wheels toe-out?

Yokomo bone was introduced below topic.
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=34582&start=45
I simply used Associated CVD coupler (#7381).

Yokomo has discontinued B-MAX2 bone. The new one is Z2-010RB2 (for YZ-2CA) and length is 62mm.
I just received this bone from Yokomo as a substitute for B-MAX2 bone. I have not tried it yet.

I think that the toe-out must be due to distortion. I tried to set 0 degree.

Thanks R16, curiously 62mm is the same length Tower Hobbies is showing for the recently discontinued ASC9911 bone (I need these for my vintage runner). I'll certainly want to confirm the 9911's length but if it truly is the same as the Yok bone you've referenced, I'll give it a try. Thanks again.

My pleasure!

But, from my quick comparison, the length of Yokomo bone is pin to pin and 9911 is total.
This makes sense because Yokomo bone is used for the B4 hub set up.

Man I must be getting old and slow because I didn't understand a lot of what you posted and why you did it. For example, the shims in the caster blocks, the rear chassis braces you made (very cool btw).

I have never been very good with the tech side of things, I just sort of experiment and see what works.

Can you maybe explain a bit more about what you've done and the reasons why?

The rear brace thingies are actually pretty smart... this car was not design for modern BIG jumps, and indeed that's a lot of stress on the rear B/H side holes...

I must be really slow lately - which rear bulkhead screws are we talking about here? I looked at my cars and can't figure out which ones you guys are talking about. But I like the idea of making it stiffer so I'm up for anything.

RC104ever wrote: ↑Mon Dec 04, 2017 7:06 am I must be really slow lately - which rear bulkhead screws are we talking about here? I looked at my cars and can't figure out which ones you guys are talking about. But I like the idea of making it stiffer so I'm up for anything.

those that hook up the chassis "sidewalls" to the B/H.

>RC104ever

I use front B4 caster blocks and B4 rear hub carriers to lower the ride height.
For the current setting of RC10, I try to maximize initial turn-in speed. With the wide rear width, I could have a good exit speed with less rear roll.
Once I design (or set) the car to fit a layout and surface, I make small adjustments during practices.
(I will test different front settings next time.)

My next topic will be about my RC10B1.5, which has much longer wheelbase and more weight on the rear.
Even both cars have the rear motor position, my setting is very different. I hope that you will enjoy it.