RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Hi all,

Back in the 80s/90s I had a Tamiya Frog and a friend of mine had splurged on the RC-10. Years later when he was cleaning out his garage he asked me if I wanted his RC-10 instead of tossing it out or selling it, and I said sure, why not. That was a long time ago, but now I have kids of my own and we just built some Tamiya Racing Fighter (DT-03) kits together and I've successfully passed down the RC bug to them, which is great. This made me remember the RC-10 that's been sitting in my garage, so I dug it out to take a look at it to see if I could get it up and running just to bash around with the kids. So my questions to all of you (which you've probably answered a million times by now, so for that I apologize), do you think it's worthwhile given the difficulty in getting parts for them? I've attached some photos of it (it's pretty banged up), and here are some questions I have just from looking at it:

1. It has the original manual speed controller, which of course I'd want to replace with a modern ESC. If I were to stick with the original motor (and assuming I would stay with a basic brushed motor either way), what ESC would you recommend? Doesn't have to be fancy.
2. The battery holder is oriented in a east/west layout, which doesn't fit a modern NIMH 6 cell stick like the ones I use for my Tamiyas - would I need to change the orientation of it to north/south?
3. I'm assuming the motor still functions, but I can't say for sure. If it doesn't, I'm guessing I should stick with a brushed equivalent instead of trying to go brushless on a 30 year old car?
3. New tires are a given being that these have flat spots from not being stored properly. Any tips on what tire combo front/rear I should get and where to buy from? I'm in the US, for reference.
4. The shocks, amazingly, still seem like they're in great functional condition!

Any other thoughts or suggestions for me based on what you see in the photos? Any advice is appreciated!

That’s a perfect car for a runner. I would put a modern 2.4 ghz radio but stick with a mild brush or brushless motor

shodog wrote: ↑Sun Jul 26, 2020 3:23 am That’s a perfect car for a runner. I would put a modern 2.4 ghz radio but stick with a mild brush or brushless motor

Thanks for the suggestions!

Do you have a recommendation for what ESC I should get? I'd like to try to see if I can get the existing motor working. I think a simple ESC for brushed motors would be fine.

Any thoughts on the battery orientation question I had asked? How would I fit a 6 cell NIMH battery pack, do I need to change the battery holder from side-to-side layout to front-to-back layout?

Thanks!

Pick up a Hobbywing Quicrun 1060 esc for about $20. It's cheap, reliable, and can run motors down to 12t.

Battery info I will leave to the RC10 experts.

If it were mine, I'd just get a cheap ESC off eBay for starters. I've had no issues with the $12, generic Asian ESCs like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/320A-ESC-Brushed-Electronic-Speed-Controller-w-Brake-For-RC-Truck-Car-Boat-US/133456704763?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item1f12a3b4fb:g:n7kAAOSw5-pfAFRL&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACYBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%252Fn%252BzU5L90Z278x5ickkBUIiHwYv5YgVss0WaiENz6KCWBQpaxVPIi%252Fu96RZd1w9qkPtaeujgRevFhbzFvS1d5K6WMt2IUq%252BaXjqG8TJSbaAIYx1uhmI7fqTWOoqT5FJ00ZxaaGxYQcVjVJh5ccyzNa5JzR9XXDeZCDO0PtEveiu42vvL834NzHtnK5SG%252F%252FY59wYad6apMXU1DMdqbcGlWskfvcLty5CMIqUWCMxu3NPcZyR0qWGmZdv6FJm%252B6Hk0iML3afma905ApIwHAtCXhJvxaCia4sGKlf9n8JhOchfwhgF5hrXI5ragBxnw%252FPUbIrZODV0KZVO48ENtPbSeQ8mRD0PnNqxPXnTfsxufZUJzPuCmHOO6IsQWEctK582A7lS5B74sgQ3RAP%252FMyA54usGqQPACT35BhXuBxpV8qDixcbmkbjskykbaV4g8NPwiHY92wmtkCXfnXmIqPbTtafSfOJAux81q5HSG1uRJ%252FSoShGQHBG3eiCxt8PtcupLS6xTg75Oabggq8gAK%252BPI3MUqgh1d%252BwuEf2UhkLZLyivvhTgmjDAs%252F4VFnR1CJjl%252B0eRjK7LwpujeDPvyWLwdXgFuOXholgUdxL59G80dqPhIBnfdjLs%252FR8I9vIofqhKruQ0piCvrnEzX9785%252B4R7dyqWxaYV7F19fWIu5WN9l%252Bz9olaVf0ddTzvIglEMtsSQEnfTUeQxLVC8UVc6TErRznOcE8MNcGhlpM1GmRj8iiQNfon%252FasqtErSxUvlf3NtRtRXviPmgsOS1UKkp%252BUdY%7Ccksum%3A1334567047638e5e5cbcc3a04e41bb3837963ace130e%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2334524. If you want to stay with a NiMh battery, will you need to switch the battery layout. That's the easiest solution. Tires for those wheels are kind of difficult (or expensive) to find. There are many wheel options to choose from, but some 2.2 style wheels from JC Racing may be the easiest solution: https://www.jcracingproducts.co.uk/wheels/rc10. 2.2 tires are the standard size now, so your options are infinite then. Also, I would install a set of front nose brace tubes. That front end will bend very easily if driven much without them. EBay may be your only option for them, unless you can make a set. They're just sections of aluminum rod, with threaded holes at the ends. Keep us updated on your progress, and enjoy!

Thanks guys, I now have a Hobbywing Quicrun 1060 on the way as well as some front nose brace tubes I found on Ebay.

Looks like I'll just change the orientation of the battery tray and just use some double-stick tape so I don't need to drill any unnecessary holes (not that the pan is in such great condition to begin with, but still).

The main reason I figured I would just go with NIMH is because I already have several for other cars as well as 2 chargers for them. I'm not sure I need to add Lipo batteries/charger into the mix for a 30 year old vintage car.

I have one other question - I've noticed that the steering has a lot of slop in it. The wheels move left to right quite a bit before even engaging the servo, if that makes sense. Is that just plastic fatigue that has made everything so loose? Any solution to that without replacing the entire steering mechanism?

For reference, this is what I'm talking about - I made a short video of the steering issue:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-lsYU7lM_Ig

Here's what I do. The original servo saver can get sloppy.

helbnd1 wrote: ↑Mon Jul 27, 2020 6:07 pm Here's what I do. The original servo saver can get sloppy.

So, you've just attached a couple small zip-ties on either end to firm things up? (just making sure I'm seeing it correctly). That's a surprisingly easy fix, thanks!

Yes, a couple zip ties will solve your steering problem (I use this trick on my runner cars) however be aware that this part is meant to function as a servo saver so you'll also want to replace your servo horn with a proper saver like one from Kimbrough.
I agree, it is a very easy fix.

http://kimbroughracingproducts.com/store/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=29902

With today's 3s lipo and brushless power, it's easy to over-power these old cars but it can lead to frequent broken parts, repairs, down time etc. I think the fun that comes with driving a vintage RC10 is at its peak if power is limited to what would have been available back in the day.
Save those 3s and 3.5t motors for modern trucks and buggies that were designed for high power and replacement parts are readily available.

XLR8 wrote: ↑Mon Jul 27, 2020 7:18 pm Yes, a couple zip ties will solve your steering problem (I use this trick on my runner cars) however be aware that this part is meant to function as a servo saver so you'll also want to replace your servo horn with a proper saver like one from Kimbrough.
I agree, it is a very easy fix.

http://kimbroughracingproducts.com/store/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=29902

It just occurred to me that if a servo saver is meant to take the brunt of an impact that could potentially harm your servo, then aren't all the aluminum servo saver hop-ups that exist technically a bad idea? Or will those just break as easily as the plastic ones? I'm talking about this type:
https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-DT-03-Upgrade-Aluminium-Thread/dp/B013P0HW2U

Metal horns could be a bad idea depending upon the application.
I would never run a metal horn with any servo with plastic gears and I never run them with an off-road buggy.

I appreciate everyone's continued help and advice!

If it turns out that the original motor is shot, do you have any suggestions for a replacement brushed motor that would be equivalent?

If I want to put modern 2.2 wheels/tires on the classic RC10, are these the 12mm hex adapters that I would need? Or is there a better alternative?

https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-associated-12mm-wheel-hex-set-4-asc91027/p203828?gclid=CjwKCAjw34n5BRA9EiwA2u9k33lXkrjRuKF3T7JiEgi8ZvDmVR-GEehgBIJfhJ_UMOS1pI3ixAh9sxoCa7wQAvD_BwE

Thanks!

antman wrote: ↑Thu Jul 30, 2020 11:41 am If I want to put modern 2.2 wheels/tires on the classic RC10, are these the 12mm hex adapters that I would need? Or is there a better alternative?

https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-associated-12mm-wheel-hex-set-4-asc91027/p203828?gclid=CjwKCAjw34n5BRA9EiwA2u9k33lXkrjRuKF3T7JiEgi8ZvDmVR-GEehgBIJfhJ_UMOS1pI3ixAh9sxoCa7wQAvD_BwE

Thanks!

Those adapters definitely won't fit your car. They are for SC10 4x4.
What's wrong with using JCRacing wheels like matt1ptkn mentioned a few posts up? They are a direct fit so no adapter needed and there are multiple colors to choose from.