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Hello all,

I'm considering upgrading my recently-acquired RC10T to a brushless setup, and wanted to know if I can do this without damaging the stealth transmission.

I've got two transmissions, one an early 2.25 stealth and one RPM 2.65 stealth conversion box, and I will be upgrading both of them with the later/larger b3 slipper clutch parts.

My intended use is primarily backyard bashing and running it for fun at R/C and bmx tracks.

Do I need to choose a motor with a larger number of turns/lower kv rating in order to prolong the life of the transmission?

I'm planning on initially using nicad and nimh cells with the brushless setup.

I may eventually upgrade to lipos; would running a 3s pack be too powerful for the transmission?

Thanks,

David

Yeah I run a 2.65 box with B3 slipper and 9000kv motor in my RC10T, never broken anything with it to my surprise!

The tranny can handle it but the old style CVD's and dog bones cannot. Upgrade to these and you'll be fine axle wise: http://cgi.ebay.com/MIP-CVD-Kit-3-16-Axle-RC10T2-1082_W0QQitemZ320209730021QQihZ011QQcategoryZ44028QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247

Thank you I already picked-up a new set of MIP cvds with 1/4" axles (I'm old-school like that), and I wanted to know, if I do run a BL setup, will I have to crank down on the t3 slipper almost all the way?

You don't have to crank it all the way down but you want to snug it up a little tighter than normal.

Would an alloy idler gear and diff gear for an RC10GT fit the Stealth Trans in my 10T if I wanted to beef-up the transmission?

Group B wrote:Would an alloy idler gear and diff gear for an RC10GT fit the Stealth Trans in my 10T if I wanted to beef-up the transmission?

no and anyway, that would only weaken your transmission...

im doing the same to my 10t of which i'm the original owner. im going with the velineon combo. i was wondering what size pinion and spur i should go with? thanks in advance for your time

Mfabrizius,

Did your motor and speedy come with a gearing chart?

Losi Xelorin motor chart indicates -

2wd 1/10 scale Truck 6.5t motor, optimum gear ratio = 11.7

So I already had 87 tooth T3 Spurs so,

87 (spur) divided by 17 (pinion) x 2.65 (Gear box ratio, I have a rpm conversion) = 13.56 (Gear ratio)

87 / 18 x 2.65 = 12.81

87 / 19 x 2.65 = 12.13

87 / 20 x 2.65 = 11.53

87 / 21 x 2.65 = 10.98

87 / 22 x 2.65 = 10.48

The optimum gear ratio (for me) is 11.7, so the closest was a 20 tooth pinion, running this ratio the motor only gets warm, so I could add some more gearing if I wanted it to go faster , not sure but I think you then have to watch your motor temp.

If you are wondering why a Losi system it was the cheapest brushless system I could get in Australia at the time.

I hope others will chip in if I am wrong, I am still learning.

I did run a 3 cell Lipo but it just caused me a lot of problems, the gearbox wasn't as reliable, had to be rebuilt more often, and it did melt the diff gear once or twice, it was also easy to get out of control and crash because of the speed, cost me lots of money in parts.

Saying that the T3 I had would hit the smallest of bumps in the road, get air under the front and become airborne and would not touch the ground for at least 10 - 15 feet or more, I always wondered if I strapped wings to it would it continue to fly?

Cheers,Dave.

I personally would stick to the 2.25 trans as parts are available for it. The RPM conversion is discontinued and has been known to eat gears. With modern BL power the 2.25 ratio is pretty much a non existant issue now.

RC10th,

How's the weather here today in Adelaide, middle of winter and I'm in my shorts.

The 2.65 RPM gearbox is the one that I am using myself, I was just using it as an example, you are right I would just stick to a standard stealth box, just change the 2.65 in the formula to 2.25. Then do the math to arrive at the correct ratio as per the book that should have been included with the speedy and motor.

Don't forget to change the spur tooth size to what you are using as well, again I already had 87 tooth spurs from a T3.

Is there anything else that I have wrong?

I am using the T3 slipper and it handles the power even with a 3 cell lipo.

Cheers, DaveM.

How did you know I was from Adelaide?

The 2.65 trans with the spur gear you have is close to the "recommended" FDR.

Nothing is wrong as long as temps are acceptable.

Cool, I am learning,

After giving it some more thought, with the standard gear cover the 87 tooth spur is a tight fit, if I was going to buy a spur I would get a 81 tooth 48 pitch as per the RC10T manual. Then do the math to work out what pinion you need to buy to get the correct final drive ratio (FDR).

RC10th, cause I go to Hobby Habit sometimes.

Cheers, Dave.

RC10th wrote:I personally would stick to the 2.25 trans as parts are available for it. The RPM conversion is discontinued and has been known to eat gears. With modern BL power the 2.25 ratio is pretty much a non existant issue now.

this is so true.. never understand running rpm trans. i get the ratio thing but they eat gears and parts is a issue.with the stock 2.25 i can run brushless 2 cell lipo (2 cell is nuts think 3 cell is too much)and i have even run 12 cell nimh with a 14turn brushed motor without problems. my only thing is i run slipper and diff too tight . not sure your results if you run you settings (slipper/diff) loose. with 87t spur gear cover clearance can be an issue. i like 81-84 best

I know I am bringing this thread back from the dead a little, but I have a question that applies.

I am building a modern RC10T runner. I would like to use the RPM Transmission w/ included top shaft. I know that you can use a T4 top shaft with the Stealth transmission, which allows you to use modern slippers. I want to use a modern slipper, however I also want to use the RPM tranny (mostly for looks). My question is, if I Use the RPM tranny, can I use a T4 top shaft? If not, what is the best choice for a slipper with the RPM tranny?

Thanks very much for any and all help!