RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

you might want to explore some of the YR4 manuals, especially the very first one. it is essentially the 870c with touring car arms. So there may be further tuning info in the manual, as I think(can't remember exactly) if they still kept that front slipper. but that would for sure deal with that cha...

I thought it was a torque splitter, so you can adjust the amount of power to front wheels? oR something along those lines Yes, I think that's right, and also per jwscab's reply. I'm wondering about people's experiences and how they use it in practice. On my high-grip surface it seems like I need lo...

It seems like, when adjusting the slipper, all of the action is just in the range where it goes from loose to tight, kind of like when adjusting a ball diff. I have observed on my relatively high-grip surface (carpet): When the slipper is tight, the car has trouble navigating turns at high speed, ma...

I just loosened it all the way, which I suppose is like a 2WD conversion, and the car is now noticeably faster!

Also seems more difficult to control.

Would a rough or loose track call for a tighter slipper?

When would you loosen the slipper all the way? High grip conditions? How loose might you go?

Hi All - Can anyone explain the purpose of the center slipper in the 870C, and under what circumstances you would tighten or loosen it? I understand that in most modern cars there is a slipper on the main gear to protect the drivetrain and mitigate some of the motor's punch, but in the 870C it appea...

Mr. ED wrote: ↑Fri Aug 04, 2017 2:07 pm I see 7.2v ni-mh or ni-cad cells in your picture.

I'm running a Ni-Cd pack I just made from fresh cells... runs great!

Those tires in your pic are the exact ones I ran on my 870c,, dominator tires I think... The rear tires and rear diff were shredding in noticeable amounts on every run. The tires are Duratrax, but I'm not sure what they're called... They seem to work great. I've been running the car only on the car...

Coelacanth wrote: ↑Thu Aug 03, 2017 12:47 pm You can address the torque issue with modern ESCs by reducing the "Punch" setting

Thank you, I will check this out!

Thank you for this great information! I'm having trouble understanding how a 25,920 RPM brushless motor would be harder on the drivetrain than the 34,000 RPM brushed motor. Can anyone elaborate on that? If the motors I mentioned are too fast, I could use a 13.5T at 21,960 RPM, or even a 17.5T at 15,...

Hi everyone - I've got an 870C that is finally almost fully restored! Here is a photo of the current motor, which came with my YZ-10 kit: https://s3.amazonaws.com/yokonj/motor.jpg As I learn more about brushed motors from back in the day, it seems they require an absurd amount of laborious regular m...

Tough Racing sent me a new 168-tooth front belt, which they have corrected and are now offering. Also I got some front and rear Polybelts from NJ USA, which for me arrived the day after I ordered them. The front Polybelt is definitely better than the old (and dried out) original Yokomo belt. It does...

eco8gator wrote: ↑Sun Jul 09, 2017 5:36 pm Adding a tensioner to the front looks pretty easy anyways if its necessary.

FYI - 870C / YZ-10 comes with a tensioner for the front belt.

Hello I haven't dealt with a front belt yet...but I have shredded/snapped a rear kevlar belt. The belts from Korea are very thin, I seriously doubt they are as strong as the rubber poly belts. The polybelt brand belts have a thick spine and have been very reliable for me on the rear when used with ...

Does anyone know a source for kevlar belts like this?

I have a kevlar rear belt that seems nicer than the all-rubber belts. Seems to wear slower and supposedly will not stretch.