RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Your going to love that set-up you have. :wink: Man did that cost you some coin too! :shock: These SCX's are great performers out of the box. By chance did you put weights in the tires before gluing them? They will help immensely with keeping the COG down. I did actually put some strip weights in t...

Thanks. I used a Holmes Hobbies 35T TorqueMaster Expert motor and the pinion is only 13T so it's pretty slow which is perfect. It's not dreadfully slow though; The boys will have to run/walk to keep up with it. That blue servo is a HiTec waterproof model so I'm hoping it will be sufficient. Receiver...

Follow up -- http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v92/Godspeed1.8T/DSC_7148_zpsaa7d28e6.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v92/Godspeed1.8T/DSC_7167_zps3aba4ace.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v92/Godspeed1.8T/DSC_7156_zpsbae72a0a.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v92/Godspeed1.8T/DSC_7154...

mikea96 wrote:I just bought the last 2 from amain on saturday! Im sure they will have them again. Stormer hobbies has 2 in stock. http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?src=&pn=ASC6565

Bob Stormer hadn't even heard of that part number until about a month ago.

Tranny drill guide. http://www.ebay.com/itm/CW-060-Associated-RC-10-RC10-STEALTH-Drill-Guide-Gold-Pan-Vintage-Carbon-Fiber-/171542365566?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27f0b8c57e Lynn Thanks, but I didn't want to spend $10+ for a 2 second job. Thankfully I was helped out by teman here -- http:/...

teman wrote:I think your printing "fit to printer margins"? I sent you a PM too.

Well I was printing it via my iPad so that could have definitely caused the problem, but the .pdf you sent me worked perfectly (printing from iMac) so I really appreciate it.

Thanks.

When I print it, it comes out like it's for a 1/5 scale car. Any ideas, or trial and error for reducing the size % ?

Hey Rod, glad you're seeing some progress. Sorry that it's such a slow moving process. If it's any consolation, I see a few nice things going on there. Your electrician appears to be doing a pretty tidy job, particularly around the panel; it's definitely not your framer's first day at the rodeo and ...

yeah, the diff..... but what we were saying is not refering to tightening until not being able to spin each half the opposite way.... .... Its holding the outdrives in place and tightening the screw till the point you cant turn the diff gear itself by hand .... OHHHHHHHHHH! :idea: So you have to do...

Ya I definitely don't want it to be off even the slightest bit fore/aft / left/right and even worse, clocked off of perfectly in-line.

Thanks for the tips.

One of the members here lives around the corner from me and I know he has multiple chassis. Hopefully I can use one as a template.

Any tips or tricks for properly placing the holes? I had a friend tap the motor plate but I was easily able to mark the spot by turning the last screw in until it hit the plate. As for mounting the transmission to the chassis, how do I get the exact proper placement? Does the transmission touch the ...

We're all talking about the diff and not the slipper, right? With that little t-nut totally bottomed out and the spring in the diff fully compressed (again, not the slipper spring), I can still turn the outdrives. It feels "crunchy" kind of with resistance, but it's not exactly hard to tur...

But what does too tight behave like and do to the transmission?

And what does too loose do?

Well, I think you're probably right about that. I also just found out 'the hard way' that my original gold anno motor plate is short one hole for mounting a Stealth tranny. And speaking of mounting/lacking holes, what's the best way to measure my A stamp chassis for the Stealth mounting holes? Motor...

jwscab wrote:I would adjust so its really hard to get the diff to slip by hand.

Oh, really? Like crank the diff spring (inside the outdrive) down all the way?