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I'm not 100% sure, but you **may** be able to use B4 dogbones rather than CVD's, but it would have to be measured.

i can't see your picture anymore, but unless the outdrive slots are really chewed up or the threads are messed up, you don't really need to change the outdrives.

interesting....so do you think it's shot and melted or do you have something else installed in there?

a picture of what you are looking at will speak volumes.

sounds to me like the diff is installed the wrong way. The adjustment screw needs to be on the correct side of the trans in order to prevent the screw from backing out. check the manual for the assembly. Bolt head looks like it goes on the spur gear side. http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/cars_and_t...

that is an excellent method.

haven't yet this year, but a bunch of the guys I work with and I have built and flown(though I haven't) foam profile airplanes. The most versatile is the F22 profile, but there are a bunch. you grab a few sheets of ABS(depron) foam sheet and carbon or balsa, a cheap brushless motor/esc/prop combo, a...

just use whatever you have around to push the bearings out, screw driver, old wing tube, nail, etc, then push in the new ones by the outer race, not the inner one. clean up the bores really well in the endbell and can, and add just a smidge of lube on the outer race to it doesn't gall(on the can or ...

fronts are really close, 1mm or so. Rears are IIRC about 7mm per side too narrow.

If JC has made new ones since then, that's awesome, but I was originally the one to tell him that the offset was wrong and he changed the ebay description.

I think I probably mentioned all this in that thread.....

meanwhile, in the wings and bulkheads of the aircraft, thousands of gallons of flammable liquid sits waiting to be burned through the turbines. LIPO batterys are sensitive to puncturing and shorting. If you can package them to withstand a reasonable shipping scenario and prevent those two failures, ...

that definitely means the duratrax wheels are a plastic blend, and the reason they aren't very durable. Also proves that using a non-foam safe CA on them will further weaken them as well. nice experiment, sorry the wheels melted on you though.....take a look at JKracing's thread where he heated up s...

yeah, i agree that over a hundred seems high for any of these systems, to be honest, with the price of high power mosfets in the dirt, and basically the stator is the windings now, the armature is simple, this stuff should be dirt cheap even for good quality parts....I dunno....

I have been eyeing this for some time......I figure the 3900kv motor would be a decent all around motor for cruising and bashing around along with good run time. It's LRP/associated of course, so I'd expect there to be decent performance. I have not heard many people running them, so I really have n...

seriously......

I was going to use some 30 minute crystal clear epoxy on the bottom of a cleaned chassis, lay the epoxy on some polyethyene sheet(like a freezer bag) on a thick sheet of glass or mirror and put a bunch of weight on it. Haven't gotten to it yet.

another option is to use automotive clear coat.

solid link will be strong, for sure. As Mike said, drill and tap the ends, and you can make it a turnbuckle quite easily. as rctenracer said, small all-thread rod on one end, and thread a short turnbuckle on the other end, so one end is right hand thread, the other is left hand, and off you go.