Coming from a very humid climate...means I often get rust on screws and various metal parts on my vintage buggies. I understand that WD40 or distilled vinegar is an easy way to remove the rust.
Is rustoleum or some protective gloss enamel good for...
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I've never tried the WD40 Specialist but I did try the other two winners. The Frog Lube, and the Hornady One Shot.
I can't remember too much about the Frog Lube other than I didn't like the smell. There was (still is?) controversy surrounding it...
Back in the day A&L was getting their team bodies painted by someone who signed them War Paint
Anyone know who that was? You can see it at the top A&L sticker, the sticker is covering some of it.
Is there any chrome paint that that folks have used to repaint chrome wheels successfully?
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From my research, the best chrome out there is Molotow Liquid Chrome, but it is really only sold as pens (or as a pen refill). For something like wheels, it needs to be airbrushed. It seems to do better on some plastics than others, and I think it...
OK, so I have been searching the internet high and low for pictures of vintage dirt oval wedge bodies from the late 80's to early 90's timeframe. One design in particular I am trying to find. Unfortunately my father threw away my painted one from...
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It had the small cockpit on the left and lines running the length of the body from the rear of the cockpit to the Gurney flap area. I am 100% sure the one I was looking for is that Viper body. No idea who originally made it but I have one on the way...
I was wondering if there is someone who lives in Austin, TX, or surrounding area, that could finish out, or knows someone that could finish out, a Protech II RC10 Championship Edition manual art painted body shell for me. The wing and body shell...
I have been searching for discussions on airbrush ready Createx paints for lexan and found several but I am confused. I'd like to buy a batch of primary paint to learn to use airbrush for RC bodies and I've seen several discussions on these...
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all of the Createx paint types will work.
Make sure you spray in thin layers and let dry in between.
Then back the paint job with some sort of Lexan spray paint like Tamiya PS series.
Silver works great and will keep the colors bright underneath.
For those into airbrushing, is there a line of acrylic paints that you use that are available from local hobby or craft stores that you would recommend? I am just starting to experiment with airbrushing, and would love to use Tamiya acrylics, but a...
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I use Vallejo airbrush paint, or Createx, both work really well.
Apply in thin layers to get good adhesion.
Then finish it off w a spray can paint Like the Tamiya PS series.
This really helps to protect the body.
So I have done some reading on tape vs. liquid masking and am trying to figure out the best method for my needs. I'm not planning to do any crazy designs, rather I just want to be able to curve my pin striping lines slightly. It seems that trying to...
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Yeah I know, 2014, old thread, yadda yadda.. :lol:
..but I’m glad I landed on this it’s really helped me out, awesome, always something to learn on here, loving it.
To follow along, basically apply a thin layer of clear paint, then paint over...
Restoring a couple old Futaba FXT stadium trucks. Just got one completely disassembled and need to refinish the chassis that's scratched up pretty bad. Please correct me if I'm wrong, is the factory chassis originally anodized aluminum..?? This is...
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This is nice to hear. I never did get back to making mine yet. I'll still give it a go just to get the experience, even though I'll buy a handful for the TBG bodies. Need to do it regardless since I need to make new Kyosho Pro-XRT bodies as well....
I just picked up my first RC10 ( ) and I'm not terribly fond of the paint on the body. I'll be purchasing a new protech or similar body to work with. I'm wondering if there are any SIMPLE color patterns that are not too involved that a rookie could...
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The yellow is a reproduction Protech 1. The blue is a JConcepts Detonator Worlds (the red car is as well).
Note that the blue car has a different front setup, requiring that the body be cut more.
IMHO, the JConcepts bodies have a little better...
My friend sent me some pics of his latest parts haul from our LHS, and this wonderful body was in there.
I wasn’t around for the re-re days so I had no clue this existed. Looks like they were released some time in 14’. Were they not available for...
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Proline basically re-issued the RCPS body from the late 80's-early 90's with some alterations. One of the more popular bodies of the day.
I'm sorry if this is a stupid question. :oops:
I'm painting a 1/12 pancar body with a spray paint and it seems that the paint doesn't go deep in the lip formed by the rear wing, leaving it almost transparent.
Do you have any tips to avoid this?...
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Bit late to the party but a cheat for this with rattle cans is to blow some into the lid & brush it into the hard to reach bits before spaying the rest.
I was wondering if anyone knew were to find, or have ever actually seen, a 300ZX (prefer the Z32, but I'd be interested in any of the Z cars...basically a 1/12 version of this body ?
I'm hoping to find one to fit a Kyosho Plazma chassis...
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Wrong scale but If you can find a 10L or something McAllister make a 300z
It's finally time to get off my duff and do what I've been procrastinating about for far too long. The fun begins. :?
Here we go: three bodies & wings all FasMasked and ready for paint. I decided to spray the FasMask on with a cheap $20 HVLP...
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Well Done mate, Liking the mid very much, im sitting on bodies and afraid to crack into them, only used tamiya rattle cans in the past.
Your post is inspiring me to give it a crack.
Ok need some constructive advice please, not but a repro shell :lol:, I’m laboriously removing paint off an old PB Ace shell. It was painted both sides and on the outer it seems to be car paint.
It’s coming of with Carson slowly however I previously...
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As the car paint seems to be stubborn and almost etched into the lexan I used the Carson and a fine abrasive pad rubbed them wiped with cotton wool. This seems to help although still have a cloudy white look to it. Gonna take some time to drag all...
I recently decided to paint my original circa 1990 rc10 shell.
However the ancient overspray mask doesn't want to peel off. Even in small spot it feel pretty stuck on and I can scratch it off with my fingernail, but it seems to be shredding when I...
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I'm thinking all the usual ways of removing stickers or anything adhesive would be different for overspray film, because that film isn't applied with adhesive. Pulling it off with tape was a good idea. Maybe I'd have tried a hair dryer.
This was posted to RC10Talk on Facebook by Greg M,
It’s from June 92’ RCCA.
I’m not on Facebook myself but a friend of mine is and he showed me this. I’ve been waiting to see if the member was going to post it to the site as well but it’s been some...
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Here's the truck.....
Sorry for the crappy pic as I pinched it from the interwebs.
Hey guys (and gals) Any tips on removing paint from the white nylon plastic used on the RC10. I am getting one someone has painted all the suspension and wheels. It looks like a nightmare but going to give it a shot. Thanks in advance.
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Hi,
I use Brake Fluid dot4 to remove paint from plastic parts.
Soak the parts 2 or 3 days in the Brake Fluid, then use a toothbrush to remove the paint.
After that hold it under Walter and clean it.
I had ever good results. And Brake Fluid does No...
My first attempt at painting and decaling a body finished up today. Used tamyia fluorescent yellow and pink I think brilliant blue all backed with white. Custom colored mciracing decals. Not sure what to do on the wing. Not real happy with it and...
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That looks better than my probably 20th body, so take pride in it an congrats! :mrgreen:
Body prep and paint is still the most stressful part of an RC build IMO.
I have been trying to get some Sandglow yellow or Camel trophy yellow for some time now but no luck. As this is RC10Talk you probably are familiar with Tamiya Camel yellow which is the correct box art color for an RC10. but you also know it is...
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I used the camel yellow, backed with yellow and then silver. It is very close.
I don't know that I'd call any of it skill. But considering how bad this reproduction body was warped, I'm amazed that it turned out this well.
20210819_215506.jpg
You might notice that the front body pin is at the bellcrank, like the Worlds...
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Funny i should notice this post after i went to some painting frustrations myself yesterday friday...and to top it off my choice of color for the body was camel yellow as well!
I have been practicing with my airbrush and tried to get this one done for the BOTM but it didn't come out as well as I was hoping. I plan to pick up another body and give it another go with what I have learned tho.
The problem with the nova and many other bodies, is the front end catches a lot of air and deforms past 50-55 mph. A body mounted splitter will make this worse. Mount the front of the body as far forward as possible and brace the area behind the...
I am planning to dive into PC'ing a 10T tub tomorrow, and am trying to get everything in order. Since this is a brand new technique to me, I just wanted to see if anyone had any experience they wanted to throw my way.
Soaked the tub in Greased...
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I didn't want to start a new thread, but does anyone have a maker / color that is very close to AE gold pan color? I understand that AE gold pan color comes in about eight different varieties, but any leads would help. I can't find any local places...
Dose any one no the typeface/font style or a close match to what associated use, im looking to get made some (RC10T2) vinyl stickers, bigger ones for the side of my truck and the oldschool black and white Team Associated (Team Associated) for the...
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Stencil font.
I can't believe it was that easy! I knew I had seen that style 1000 times in my life, but couldn't place where. Thanks! :D
Hi there, here is my long wishbone rc10 ce.
quick and basic paint job using proline paints and bittydesign liquid mask
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Sharp looking Rc10. Really like the paint design and the wheels compliment it nicely. Have you contemplated painting the wing at all? Either way, looks fantastic.
If you have a Tamyia TS color that is not offered in PS (polycarbonate/lexan) you can put down a couple coats of PS Satin clear and the TS paint will adhere to it. Been painting RC bodies for 30 years and just learned this....
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Excellent tip! Also, dont forget to vote in BOTM CONTEST each month.
Painted this one today. Trying to keep myself busy while my house is under quarantine. Not sure which body actually came with the team car kit, but I thought a manual art style paint job would look nice on a scoopless turbo mirage. Let me know what...
Going with the RC10CE scheme with inverted decals from MCI (man he is good) on new B6.2 carpet car. Paint still to go....white in the front black in the back
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That looks sweet. Going to be doing this on a body for an actual CE car. Any huge benefit to the decals on the inside? I have never done this.
Thanks homz...car still sitting there just like that...never raced it, lol
I finally broke enough custom parts lately to make me buy a modern ride. Of course I had to find a way to make my adopted Team Car manual art race scheme onto a B5M JC Finisher body.
The paint scheme worked well, but was missing something in the...
Greetings...I have an older RC-10 that I am putting a street car body on.I have figured out all the body mounts and got the new body painted.I need advice/guidance on chrome paint for the bumpers.Anybody got any tips and tricks to get a decent...
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The spaz stix chrome is by far the best for a true chrome result. Spaz stix paints have the best pigments on the market, but beware, unless it's a shelf queen, the chrome paint will chip and flake right off with any kind of impact. A close second...
Has anyone ordered from Windtunnel Racing? There site looks a bit untended to. Just wanted to see if anyone had any experience with them. Thanks.
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Ya. I picked up one to replace an old Bolink one that got badly smoke damaged. My son is working on cleaning it up. I have quite a few to restore for a second time. Finally we are now back to a point in life where we can start picking things back...
Hello everyone - I have a couple of car bodies that the paint is chipping. I would like to refinish as they have the stickers on them. I seen that tamiya has a paint remover. Is this fine to use to remove all the paint or is it just for cleaning up...
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I've tried nitro fuel too. If DOT3 brake fluid won't remove it, nitro fuel won't even touch it. :(
Thanks for mentioning that about Pactra paint by the way, good to know.
And I'll post my nitro fuel results on the 18-19 yr old paint.
Painted this one yesterday. Its an Andy's body that's produced and sold by Sabula Tech. I have been buying bodies from Sabula Tech for a couple years now and the quality has always been very good. I've always loved the classic Toyota Race Team...
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Painted this one yesterday. Its an Andy's body that's produced and sold by Sabula Tech. I have been buying bodies from Sabula Tech for a couple years now and the quality has always been very good. I've always loved the classic Toyota Race Team...
I have been buying up some of the new rereleased bodies from Sabula Tech (which are good, BTW) and I have tracked down quite a few other bodies I have wanted through various sources like RJ Speed, Mr Lexan and Wind Tunnel Racing. It made me curious...
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Yeah, these things usually come down to money. They have the molds but not the will or ability to invest. Or who knows what happened? Maybe one more victim of COVID-19 (economically speaking). I see that Bob Stormer is selling a couple of NASCAR...
Bought this cheap body on ebay to put on my vintage RC12L and used some spare stickers from a BMW body from HPI that I had lying around. Just thought I’d share.
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I got it for a good price on ebay. It was a bit of an impulse buy. Its clean but the tires are a bit chewed on the outside edges. I’m not sure where to get new ones since the hubs have a peculiar mounting pattern. I planned running it in the house...
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