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Wow... very high cool factor. I want one :lol: 😫

Not all motors required a Schottky unless it was mentioned in your esc manual. The caps (not diodes) were typically .1 uF ceramic disc and you used two. Some esc's wanted you to use 3. Some kits had an electrolytic or tantalum cap....

OMG that was so kind of you to take apart your SPA !
I recently received from the bay a 240 combo. The ST is definitely correct but i don't believe the WS is , its a single wind. It looks like something I have seen before but I can't remember when,...

Well, a lot has changed in 3.5 years. To say the least. :D But that armature lives on with someone else at this point, long since gone to the ebay grave yard.

I saw that motor on eBay a while back and made a post in the Facebook brushed motor heaven group. Nobody was able to add any valuable input. I've never heard of Malung, and it's strange that Jim would use an off-brand like that.

Thanks again!

Interesting... The white signal wire is connected to the #5 on the IC.
But only by soldering across 2 separate copper pads. This is shown in your pic inside the red oval that I drew.

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Pic taken showing no connection...

Buy some of these (or similar cheap motor)and strip them for parts.

I store my display batteries on the shelf amongst other items like buld dischargers and other electronic equipment. I even have a battery bug on display, anyone remember those? I also display some loose cells in battery jigs to emulate how they were...

No idea about that motor, but I love that endbell!

The last couple packs that I built used Tenergy NIMH cells. Then I put MCI decals on them.

Not perfect, but they don't look out of place either.

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Nice!!! May go down...

Mouser digikey arrow Newark and many others. If you know who makes the part, such as Fairchild or ti or whoever you can often order direct.

Most of my older Peak Performance are Yokomo can & endbell, although one is Yok can and Air Supply endbell. But I have one PP motor that is Trinity Epic based. Both of those are from a former PP sponsored racer so I don't think there's been too much...

The Novak mailing address was 2709-C Orange Ave., Santa Ana, CA 92702. I wonder if being on Orange Avenue influenced Bob to make orange products.
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So little bit related to the topic, what is the deal with surface use only and non surface use radios?

Money. Surface use airwave licensing is priced differently than aerial use. It's why you're told to turn off your device on a plane. Nothing...

So this bad boy got sent off to motor guru Glyn Ward for a full strip and rebuild. He skimmed the comm for starters and checked the magnets. The magnets were spot on, and he told me he expected this to be the case as they are early sintered ferrite...

I am trying to date my early 2PBKA and stumbled upon this thread. Since it has a R112JE rx I'd say it's the early 90's and probably 1991. Mine is earlier with a R102JE rx, which I assume is late 80's and probably 88/89.

If you open up the motor the wind will be on the stack written with black sharpie. Might not still be readable but you never know!

There was lots of brush cutting going on back in the day. Several companies sold precut brushes and brush cutting machines were also a thing so you could cut your own. Everything from slotted brushes for more cooling to holes drilled up the center...

Here's a late PII with silver vein or silver-vane finish on the can. Was the Vintage Electronics forum not around 10 years ago? :wink:

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Recently I've purchased a Wing Stock RF and a Wing 2 in the attempt to form the complete Wing motors line up. The Wing 2 seller have been so kind sending me some old advs regarding Yokomo motors that clear the point about turns:
YMW4 Wing 4 Modified...

Would've made sense to have your thumb on the wheel next to steering as throttle and the side slider to be trim.
Looks like it tuned into radio Luxembourg as well.

I just remember stockers when I was racing the T3 back in '97ish had the wavy brush hood and similar can venting.

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Thanks all for the information. So is it correct to say that there’s no issues with running 75 MHz, it’s just more prone to conflicts?

There are no issues with it. Anymore, the chance of having someone on the same channel is extremely rare.

Out...

Yeah I thought about the gun bluing but wasn't sure how it would work.

I knew I had this somewhere..... found on the weekend, so scanned. Quality is not great, as it's a scan of a photocopy from a folder..... but it is legible (I hope!).
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Hope that helps!

Alex

My bad. Should've said 133H. The S133, S133H, and S143 are the same dimensions but different torque/speed.

Looks like you've got a Holy Grail there!

None of the swine in my stable deserve such a nice piece, but it may end up on the Holiest of chassis I have. :wink:

I made that assumption with a KO speed control and it worked out fine.

Since this thread is only a little over 8 years old I will bump it up with a few K mod pics. There was a small separation of the bottom packaging, so I just pried it a bit to get the motor out. This is a code #17 - 15 Quad.

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I have never had much luck with my Novus system for some reason. Maybe just the wrong plastics, or needing more work prior to polishing. I will give it a try on my next Novak refresh. Thanks!

Well, the fact that the labels were still the black and white label makes me think this was something else my dad did, but I never ran one of those. Those were early offerings but didn't last long. Now that I look at the back of the labels, it...

My first purchase from him was by his eBay listing. That's how I would recommend.

I did take measurements of the sticker (font size etc.) & a photo of a larger CS sticker for scanning so they coulkd make some repro's. I don't know if they ever got made though.

I have a few old Laser speed controls that need stickers.

If your transmitter trigger can be set 50/50, it will be easier than 70/30.

Is it sad that I miss making my batteries and using the old ticking rotary chargers? My current build uses a bunch of vintage electronics, but I obviously can't use the batteries.

Thanks guys! Its awesome that there are some really close matches for these parts out there!

They do. I clearly put that in the item description.

Another early version stocker sticker.

You could make a motor flag. A brass rod with a steel square on it. You insert it instead of the rotor and the flag should point to the center of the magnets.
The magnets don't just lose magnetism, they lose center too.
Would give you a feel for how...

I removed the leads so the top of the case could come off. It looks like this ESC was trying to toast marshmallows and make s'mores.
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I have another version of the same motor.
Label on it says:
- part number 5718
- 18x4
- 27000rpm
Same specs as posted above.
Actual dyno run data on a sticker (performed not by me): 29800rpm, 162w, max. efficiency 73.8%....

Maybe check at Kimbrough.

Are they pretty tough units? Do they need rebuilding?

They were popular in their day. Like most Futaba stuff, they are made well.

As long as it operates smoothly, I'd use it. If it's sticky, clean the gears and re-grease it.

I was leaning nicd as well. I measured the voltage just for giggles and it was at 4V. I would have thought it would be dead all these years. Just for curiosity, I will slow charge it and see what happens😉

I have some Japanese versions of KO EX-1.
I would like to post some the Japanese versions of EX-1 from the advertisement published in the RC Magazine.

1. The first EX-1 don’t have the back trigger. The back trigger attached after a while.
2. The...