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scr8p wrote: ↑Tue Feb 13, 2018 7:58 am I'm gonna try it as is for now. I've drilled enough holes in the tub already.

Not that it's a perfect tub or anything but I don't want it to end up in the swiss cheesed tub thread.

look, Ma, no drill



(at least get yourself some lead tape for raceday...)

RC10th wrote: ↑Tue Feb 13, 2018 8:02 am Should swap out rear arms with white....

That swaybar thingie is pretty cool, who made it?

I'm still debating dying the front ones black. But i do have white rears I could throw on it. I'll wait until the sway bar links rip out of these arms first.

The aluminum piece on the tower? Not sure who made it. But it's a 10lss rear sway bar. That mount was just in with a bunch of other sway bars and was just long enough for me to be able to drill 2 holes in the ends and use it.

Lonestar wrote: ↑Tue Feb 13, 2018 8:17 am

scr8p wrote: ↑Tue Feb 13, 2018 7:58 am I'm gonna try it as is for now. I've drilled enough holes in the tub already.

Not that it's a perfect tub or anything but I don't want it to end up in the swiss cheesed tub thread.

look, Ma, no drill



(at least get yourself some lead tape for raceday...)

I have plenty of weight to throw on it.

The battery is already against the servo. So that would have to be move forward or I'd have to get one of the bellcranks that Niki sells so I can turn the servo before the battery can go anywhere.

Creativity at its finest

RC10th wrote: ↑Tue Feb 13, 2018 8:23 am Creativity at its finest

Gotta use what ya got.

I've had mine for over 20 years, but this is the kit the bar and some of the hardware is from.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-Rc-Team-Composite-Craft-Rc-10091-10LSS-Sway-Bar-Kit-NEW-Instructions/192450788974?hash=item2ccef5fe6e:g:gMEAAOSwGHJafIpw

scr8p wrote: ↑Tue Feb 13, 2018 8:22 am The battery is already against the servo. So that would have to be move forward or I'd have to get one of the bellcranks that Niki sells so I can turn the servo before the battery can go anywhere.

Gotcha. Does a transverse shorty fit in the T2 tub?

Yeah. It just sits up off the chassis a bit because of the raised sides.

scr8p wrote: ↑Tue Feb 13, 2018 8:43 am Yeah. It just sits up off the chassis a bit because of the raised sides.

could work actually, and even induce a bit of roll at the front/middle, which could be beneficial

I'll try it as is and go from there. I don't know how much I'll actually get to use it now that spring is around the corner. They don't tear the track down or anything, but it gets hot upstairs where the track is in warmer months.

And, in the pipeline is a nitro dual sport e-converted buggy. Somehow, this thing will be legal for Vonats competition.

hmmmm.......

I knew I was gonna be over towards my LHS yesterday, and I had gotten the car finished up the other day. So it was time for it's maiden voyage. All i took was the car, the radio and a charged lipo. Just wanted to shake it down and see how it worked. They changed the layout since the last time I saw it too, so that was cool. Nice wall ride now.
I have to say, the car was not too bad........ once I figured out how to keep the traction rolling to a minimum. It jumped well and felt pretty balanced. I ended up snapping the ball off the right front arm for the sway bar. I don't think the 2-56 threads could handle such a heavy front bar. Once disconnected it definitely changed the handling...... not in a good way . But, I finished out the pack and headed home.

Overall, I'm fairly happy with the first outing. Next time I go I'll have all of my stuff with so I can make changes to try and dial it in a little more.

scr8p wrote: ↑Tue Feb 20, 2018 8:20 am
Once disconnected it definitely changed the handling...... not in a good way

You need a pair or NIX or Andy's wide arms that have an extra outer shock mounting hole. Standard shock mounting geomety is too far inboard for modern tracks and tires, especially on carpet.

I've fixed the sway bar links and went to a smaller diameter bar. I'll mess with that and the shocks awhile before i get too nuts changing arms and such.

If I had my tools with me, I would have liked to try disconnecting the rear bar after disconnecting the front. I think it would have been better than with only the rear.

There is now an optional tub for the B1.5. The +5.5mm.
This is another one of those times where I should not be cutting and drilling late at night when I'm tired. It's all square and everything, but it could've been nicer had I waited until tomorrow. Like, not drilling the back nose plate hole in the tub..... knowing that i wanted to retain the use of the original hole in the tub so i could move the servo further forward.. But i punched it through, so too late. I didn't drill it out bigger and countersink it so it's not that big of a deal.

I made a drill template out of an old buggy nose. Went in between the short and long wheelbase holes.

That's a B1.5.1, then, the famous "+8mm" equivalent!